dailydriver

I don't know if this is the correct forum for this, so mods please move it if not.

I need some more info on this procedure;

1) Does the TYPE (Dex 3, Type F, etc.) of ATF matter?

2) Does it matter if it is synthetic or not? (I'd prefer to use Red Line D4, despite the expense, if possible, since I have a VERY costly, group 4/5/ester based synthetic in the sump now {Motul 300V}.)

3) How soon after adding the quart does the oil have to be drained, or can it stay in for the whole rest of the oil change interval??
(I JUST changed the oil with the 'liquid gold' [and priced like it] 300V not 2 weeks before the bad lifter noises started. )

Thanks in advance,

Dave H.

RockinWs6

I would 1st of all get that oil out of there then see how it sounds with just regular 5-30. I use Dex iv (Dex 6) 8 ozs to a qt to help clean the crap out of the lifters. IMO you can leave it in BUT I wouldn't beat the living crap out of it while its in there.

Most likely the ester oil moved a lot of crap around and it ended up in the lifters.

dailydriver

OK, but I've ALWAYS used an ester based (Red Line) oil before this, almost since new.

It was VERY clean under the valve covers, with almost NO varnish, or soot at all.

What does wrist pin knock sound like, high pitched, sharp/metallic sounding, or dull 'thud' like piston slap??