Free spun steering shaft during motor swap. Might as well spap the clock spring.
02-22-2016, 03:15 PM
#1
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Free spun steering shaft during motor swap. Might as well spap the clock spring. All,
I goofed during my motor swap. In a moment of ignorance, I was talking to a buddy and I spun my steering shaft a few times when it was still disconnected from the rack.
I'm pretty sure the clock spring is going to be shot, so I might as well swap it now while I'm doing everything else to the car. Anyone have any info for swapping this thing? I tried a search but I can't find much info. I'm guessing I need to pull the airbag, then rent a steering wheel puller. What's next? I'm pretty clueless on this as this is pretty much the only part of my 99 T/A that I haven't messed with. I'm not sure if it matters, but it does have steering wheel controls.
Any advice will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
I goofed during my motor swap. In a moment of ignorance, I was talking to a buddy and I spun my steering shaft a few times when it was still disconnected from the rack.
I'm pretty sure the clock spring is going to be shot, so I might as well swap it now while I'm doing everything else to the car. Anyone have any info for swapping this thing? I tried a search but I can't find much info. I'm guessing I need to pull the airbag, then rent a steering wheel puller. What's next? I'm pretty clueless on this as this is pretty much the only part of my 99 T/A that I haven't messed with. I'm not sure if it matters, but it does have steering wheel controls.
Any advice will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
02-23-2016, 09:27 AM
#4
Here's my thread on removing the steering wheel and clock spring. There are some other good ones, by other members, as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mn-repair.html
I would also recommend going all the way down to your turn signal mechanism, while you are at it. It likes some white lithium grease for lubrication and if you replace the turn signal cancel springs, while you are there - that will preemptively take care of a major headache should one of those break on you. (In my experience they typically last 100-120K miles before breaking.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mn-repair.html
I would also recommend going all the way down to your turn signal mechanism, while you are at it. It likes some white lithium grease for lubrication and if you replace the turn signal cancel springs, while you are there - that will preemptively take care of a major headache should one of those break on you. (In my experience they typically last 100-120K miles before breaking.)
02-24-2016, 05:06 PM
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Here's my thread on removing the steering wheel and clock spring. There are some other good ones, by other members, as well.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mn-repair.html
I would also recommend going all the way down to your turn signal mechanism, while you are at it. It likes some white lithium grease for lubrication and if you replace the turn signal cancel springs, while you are there - that will preemptively take care of a major headache should one of those break on you. (In my experience they typically last 100-120K miles before breaking.)
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...mn-repair.html
I would also recommend going all the way down to your turn signal mechanism, while you are at it. It likes some white lithium grease for lubrication and if you replace the turn signal cancel springs, while you are there - that will preemptively take care of a major headache should one of those break on you. (In my experience they typically last 100-120K miles before breaking.)
02-24-2016, 05:46 PM
#6
Oh, one other thing. If you haven't opened the column before, you'll want to watch out for the horn wire going in to the turn signal cam. It's really easy to break the socket for the wire, which is integral to the cam. (The cam is cheap and probably a $5 part, but it's just one less PITA thing to deal with.)
You need to press the horn wire in as you turn it left to release it from the socket. If you don't or just pull on it, it could break the cam.
You need to press the horn wire in as you turn it left to release it from the socket. If you don't or just pull on it, it could break the cam.
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03-11-2016, 03:47 PM
#8
Sorry to hijack, but this brought up a question to me.
Did all of this damage occur because the steering wheel was overspun? Like, rotated beyond what would normally be the lock with the rack connected? Or does some damage occur to the wheel if there's no rack connected?
Thanks
Did all of this damage occur because the steering wheel was overspun? Like, rotated beyond what would normally be the lock with the rack connected? Or does some damage occur to the wheel if there's no rack connected?
Thanks
