No power on charged battery! Only clue is headlight whine
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No power on charged battery! Only clue is headlight whine
I posted this over in the Firebird-specific forum but got no response so I thought it might help to cross-post it here:
So I searched through the headlight sticky and no one seemed to have my problem...
No power to the car at all. Checked fuses, battery terminals, cleaned grounds, etc. The drivers side headlight seems to have a constant high pitch whine and when I remove the fuse, it stops. Fuse looks fine and replacing it has no effect. Never had any headlight issues prior so I am just taking guesses on how to proceed.
If anyone has had this issue or can give me some advice on what else to do/check I would certainly owe you one.
Also, this was after repairing some moosejunk wiring on the driver's turn signal.
So I searched through the headlight sticky and no one seemed to have my problem...
No power to the car at all. Checked fuses, battery terminals, cleaned grounds, etc. The drivers side headlight seems to have a constant high pitch whine and when I remove the fuse, it stops. Fuse looks fine and replacing it has no effect. Never had any headlight issues prior so I am just taking guesses on how to proceed.
If anyone has had this issue or can give me some advice on what else to do/check I would certainly owe you one.
Also, this was after repairing some moosejunk wiring on the driver's turn signal.
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Well no luck for timely responses, I guess I will just take a voltmeter and follow the trail out from the battery and see where I am not getting a reading at. I checked the headlight connector harness and it looked good but I will try blasting it with electrical cleaner as well.
Time has not run out! To chime in with any advice. TIA
Time has not run out! To chime in with any advice. TIA
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Issue with my truck this weekend. I had lights and cluster illuminated but no start. I changed the starter and all was good. One connector the nut wasn't tight at all. Could have been that loose connection on my starter. I just put the new one in. I didn't wantt to trouble shoot.
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Issue with my truck this weekend. I had lights and cluster illuminated but no start. I changed the starter and all was good. One connector the nut wasn't tight at all. Could have been that loose connection on my starter. I just put the new one in. I didn't wantt to trouble shoot.
The pros at Autozone were going on about checking my BCM which makes sense from a troubleshooting standpoint, but I am pretty certain the problem lies elsewhere.
I got the lower fuse panel to make a clicking sound instead of the high pitch whining from the headlight but now I can't replicate the condition. Errg, wish I was better with electronics
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There's a couple connectors for the heavy gauge wires feeding the ignition cylinder. I'd check the column, and see if you have main power reaching the key. They'll be the fattest wires running to the top of the steering column.
Let us know what you find.
BTW, side post terminals always seem to loose tension for me. If you can rotate the terminal after tightening the bolt, something is wrong.
Let us know what you find.
BTW, side post terminals always seem to loose tension for me. If you can rotate the terminal after tightening the bolt, something is wrong.
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Update: Let the car sit over the weekend, electronics now working...
Only issue is that the left headlamp places a huge draw on the battery and after a few seconds the battery needs recharging. Is this something I can refer to the firebird headlight sticky for?
If, say, I had rewired the left turn signal poorly/improperly, would it cause this sort of behavior? I only ask because the signal is working but removing/re-attaching the splitter just to do this is kind of a PITA
Only issue is that the left headlamp places a huge draw on the battery and after a few seconds the battery needs recharging. Is this something I can refer to the firebird headlight sticky for?
If, say, I had rewired the left turn signal poorly/improperly, would it cause this sort of behavior? I only ask because the signal is working but removing/re-attaching the splitter just to do this is kind of a PITA
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First, I want to thank the members who chipped in some suggestions. For what seemed like such a simple job (swapping in led switchback turn signals), it turned in to a huge hassle that left me scratching my head.
Two things:
1) The leds had to be mounted to the socket in a particular direction. I thought my wiring was backward or wrong when I got no response from the light, but no, I just plugged the light in backwards. In addition, the connection isn't particularly great. Especially with a replacement signal socket.
2) The real culprit was that the left hid headlight connection became loose when I repaired the signal socket wiring. It created a hefty drain on the battery that caused all sorts of electrical anomalies while I was testing everything.
Lesson learned. Not much for others to learn from here but I want to reassert my gratitude for those who chimed in and the forum as a whole.
Two things:
1) The leds had to be mounted to the socket in a particular direction. I thought my wiring was backward or wrong when I got no response from the light, but no, I just plugged the light in backwards. In addition, the connection isn't particularly great. Especially with a replacement signal socket.
2) The real culprit was that the left hid headlight connection became loose when I repaired the signal socket wiring. It created a hefty drain on the battery that caused all sorts of electrical anomalies while I was testing everything.
Lesson learned. Not much for others to learn from here but I want to reassert my gratitude for those who chimed in and the forum as a whole.