Installed ARP Wheel Studs WITHOUT Removing Axle (3 Channel ABS)!
#1
Installed ARP Wheel Studs WITHOUT Removing Axle (3 Channel ABS)!
Broke a wheel stud. Decided if I was going to replace the stud, might as well replace them all with stronger ARP. Went with the 100-7708 which is the closest to our stock size they make. It's about 3/8" longer than the OEM stud.
Since I DON'T have TCS, I can't just remove the sensor on the backing plate to slide in the longer studs. I did some research here and other sites and found out it's possible to drill my backing plates, but no one really gave any directions on how or where to do this. I took some pics to maybe help out the next guy!
I put my ARP studs in the freezer overnight to maybe shrink them slightly since I planned to pull them through using a new lugnut. I also bought a Lisle 22800 stud installer for like $22 to hopefully go a little easier on the threads. It has a bearing in it and spins as the stud is pulled through.
I used an electric impact gun with a 19mm deep well socket to pull the ARP studs in place. To drill out the backing plate, I used an electric variable speed drill with a stepped bit.
It was a tight fit to get my drill in there, and on the passenger side, I had to remove the suspension spring because my drill was too big, but since I have lowering springs it came out easily. If you have a smaller drill, that step may not be be necessary.
I only drilled where the factory has a hole there for the sensor in the 4 channel ABS systems, so I don't think any structural integrity was compromised at all.
Attaching pics of hole as well as tools I used:
Since I DON'T have TCS, I can't just remove the sensor on the backing plate to slide in the longer studs. I did some research here and other sites and found out it's possible to drill my backing plates, but no one really gave any directions on how or where to do this. I took some pics to maybe help out the next guy!
I put my ARP studs in the freezer overnight to maybe shrink them slightly since I planned to pull them through using a new lugnut. I also bought a Lisle 22800 stud installer for like $22 to hopefully go a little easier on the threads. It has a bearing in it and spins as the stud is pulled through.
I used an electric impact gun with a 19mm deep well socket to pull the ARP studs in place. To drill out the backing plate, I used an electric variable speed drill with a stepped bit.
It was a tight fit to get my drill in there, and on the passenger side, I had to remove the suspension spring because my drill was too big, but since I have lowering springs it came out easily. If you have a smaller drill, that step may not be be necessary.
I only drilled where the factory has a hole there for the sensor in the 4 channel ABS systems, so I don't think any structural integrity was compromised at all.
Attaching pics of hole as well as tools I used:
Last edited by BandDirector Blk98ZM6; 04-19-2016 at 05:41 AM.
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Hold the sarcasm about GM. The factory studs go in and out without removing the axles, just the E brake shoe needs to be removed for convenience. Factories design their vehicles to be used with factory or equivalent parts. A real mechanic would know this.
Yes you should feel stupid for your comment at this point.
Yes you should feel stupid for your comment at this point.
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Broke a wheel stud. Decided if I was going to replace the stud, might as well replace them all with stronger ARP. Went with the 100-7708 which is the closest to our stock size they make. It's about 3/8" longer than the OEM stud.
Since I DON'T have TCS, I can't just remove the sensor on the backing plate to slide in the longer studs. I did some research here and other sites and found out it's possible to drill my backing plates, but no one really gave any directions on how or where to do this. I took some pics to maybe help out the next guy!
I put my ARP studs in the freezer overnight to maybe shrink them slightly since I planned to pull them through using a new lugnut. I also bought a Lisle 22800 stud installer for like $22 to hopefully go a little easier on the threads. It has a bearing in it and spins as the stud is pulled through.
I used an electric impact gun with a 19mm deep well socket to pull the ARP studs in place. To drill out the backing plate, I used an electric variable speed drill with a stepped bit.
It was a tight fit to get my drill in there, and on the passenger side, I had to remove the suspension spring because my drill was too big, but since I have lowering springs it came out easily. If you have a smaller drill, that step may not be be necessary.
I only drilled where the factory has a hole there for the sensor in the 4 channel ABS systems, so I don't think any structural integrity was compromised at all.
Attaching pics of hole as well as tools I used:
Since I DON'T have TCS, I can't just remove the sensor on the backing plate to slide in the longer studs. I did some research here and other sites and found out it's possible to drill my backing plates, but no one really gave any directions on how or where to do this. I took some pics to maybe help out the next guy!
I put my ARP studs in the freezer overnight to maybe shrink them slightly since I planned to pull them through using a new lugnut. I also bought a Lisle 22800 stud installer for like $22 to hopefully go a little easier on the threads. It has a bearing in it and spins as the stud is pulled through.
I used an electric impact gun with a 19mm deep well socket to pull the ARP studs in place. To drill out the backing plate, I used an electric variable speed drill with a stepped bit.
It was a tight fit to get my drill in there, and on the passenger side, I had to remove the suspension spring because my drill was too big, but since I have lowering springs it came out easily. If you have a smaller drill, that step may not be be necessary.
I only drilled where the factory has a hole there for the sensor in the 4 channel ABS systems, so I don't think any structural integrity was compromised at all.
Attaching pics of hole as well as tools I used: