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1998 Trans Am Purchased Brand New by me 18 years ago! Need help!

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Old 11-29-2016, 03:28 AM
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Default 1998 Trans Am Purchased Brand New by me 18 years ago! Need help!

I bought this car brand new 18 years ago and have learned a lot on this forum to help me keep her purring over the years. Thanks to all of you!

For the past few starts, it was clicking pretty intensely for a bit before cranking. Thought battery was dying and was planning on getting a new one today. Went to start car today, and nothing. No clicking, nothing but complete heart-breaking silence. Installed a new battery right away. Again, nothing but complete sheer and utter silence.

All my dash lights are working and security light is not coming on as it did plenty of times over the past 18 years due to crappy key sensors. Never got new FOBS or did any bypass or any tricks posted on here. Just cleaned the keys and it hasn't done it in a few years. I drive this car daily and it has 130K on it.

I checked the following (in the Walmart parking lot for 2 hours):

-VATS - had this issue plenty of times over the past 18 years. Does not seem to be an issue right now. Security light not coming on. The clicking that led up to no start tells me it's not the VATS. I am open to opinions of course.
-Relays - all good but are 18 years old. I swapped ignition ones out for fan ones...still no go.
-fuses- appear to be all good, but they are 18 years old! Is it possible a fuse could be better even though it is not popped/melted, etc.?
-starter is 3 years old. no previous signs of deterioration prior to this event.

New clutch master and slave cylinder one year ago. No problems since install.

Could it be clutch pedal switch all of a sudden? If so, why all the clicking prior to complete silence?

Please give me your thoughts. Thank you.
Old 11-29-2016, 02:09 PM
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Sounds like you've had some intermittent issues with VATS in the past, which may or may not be playing a role now. But the clicking wouldn't have been a VATS issue, so we'll consider the current situation to be an extension of that.

I'm quite sure that several of the fuses on my '71 are 45 years old. None have gone bad from age or sitting. If one has blown, it's due to a problem on that circuit. Of course, yours are the blade style which aren't as visually dramatic as the old tube style when they blow - but if you have inspected pertinent ones, then this is not your issue.

The replacement starter would be my next guess, since you've already tried a new battery. Especially if it's a rebuild from a chain auto parts store (like AutoZone, etc.) I've often gotten poor service life from those cheap rebuilds.

Or perhaps you have a bad/loose/corroded ground. I'd check the battery cables at both ends, and connection points at the starter.
Old 11-29-2016, 03:36 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Ground is in great condition. I will check starter cables, but when I put the starter in 3 years ago, they were in great shape. I'm going to test the starter and alternator as soon as i get it towed. The car is lowered and its sitting in a Walmart parking lot at the moment.

Would the car go dead silent with a broken alternator?
Old 11-29-2016, 03:43 PM
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The alternator is not a possible cause if you installed a brand new (assuming fully charged) battery and still had a no click/no crank situation.

Also, I assume that all other electrical features work as they should. If they do not, then you may have other electrical/wiring issues assuming the new battery has a full charge.

Battery power is what cranks and starts the engine, the alternator isn't even charging until it's spinning.
Old 11-29-2016, 04:18 PM
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Check battery terminals carefully for corrosion or poor contact, this will prevent full current flow to the starter. The plastic covers on the terminals can get in the way of good contact.
Old 11-29-2016, 04:33 PM
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I had this happen last year. Ultimately it was a loose connection on the negative battery terminal. Sometimes the simple solution is the most likely.
Old 11-30-2016, 07:14 AM
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Possible causes from my experience on some similar issues.

1. No power getting to starter, get a volt meter and see if power is even making it to the starter.

2. If there is power, obviously its most likely the starter.

3. No power, and you've checked all wires/leads/fuses I would say it could be the VATS. My VATS would cut out intermittently before it finally wouldn't start the car anymore. I think maybe its the main reason its not turning on now but there's still the underlying issue of the clicking.

I think you may have more than one single issue causing your woes. Good Luck finding out exactly what is the problem.
Old 11-30-2016, 08:29 PM
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Hopefully you're not still stuck at Wal-Mart. But if dash lights are working and it's a 6 speed, bump start it to get it home and then figure it out!
Old 12-01-2016, 02:39 AM
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After some testing, it was the starter. Put a new one in last night. Thanks for all your replies!
Old 12-01-2016, 02:43 AM
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Years ago my 6 month old starter was grinding. Found out is was a loose mounting bolt and wheel was was not fully engaged. Got under there and tightened her up and she was good to go.
Old 12-01-2016, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by kdoublep
After some testing, it was the starter. Put a new one in last night. Thanks for all your replies!
Just curious what brand started did you get?
Old 12-01-2016, 11:17 AM
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Just got a remanufactured duralast from autozone. Previous one lasted 4 years.
Old 12-01-2016, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by kdoublep
Just got a remanufactured duralast from autozone. Previous one lasted 4 years.
Not surprising. Starters/alternators from this source are not known for high quality.

Glad that you got the car back on the road though.
Old 12-01-2016, 03:23 PM
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Lol, was going to say most likely starter but was obviously beaten to it. Any autoparts store starter is a crap shoot. Though expensive, if I had the time I would look into a GM unit if either of my LS vehicles needed one. Transam is 14 years old and original starter. My truck is 16 years old with well over 300K miles - original starter. Though who knows if what you would by today would be the same quality as the ones used 15 years ago.
Old 12-02-2016, 04:48 PM
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after thought..........
My opinion on ALL of the aftermarket rebuilds as of late they "Suck" would be an understatement.

I searched and found a local shop that rebuilds electrical components for Big Trucks and they also do cars, more of their business is for Big Rigs. I get them to rebuild all of my stuff and could not be happier. Mitsubishi, Camaro and Corvette items are usually around $90. I do have a spare Auto parts store alt. & starter to use while my GM stuff is getting a REAL refurb.

I bought a parts store alternator and installed it and found I have a hum in my radio, after installing my GM that came on my car from the factory the hum went away. I also bought my car New back in Nov. 1997.
Old 12-02-2016, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1121
after thought..........
My opinion on ALL of the aftermarket rebuilds as of late they "Suck" would be an understatement.

I searched and found a local shop that rebuilds electrical components for Big Trucks and they also do cars, more of their business is for Big Rigs. I get them to rebuild all of my stuff and could not be happier. Mitsubishi, Camaro and Corvette items are usually around $90. I do have a spare Auto parts store alt. & starter to use while my GM stuff is getting a REAL refurb.

I bought a parts store alternator and installed it and found I have a hum in my radio, after installing my GM that came on my car from the factory the hum went away. I also bought my car New back in Nov. 1997.


The remanufactured units from GM used to be good, but as mentioned by AnotherWs6 above, the quality of those may also now be suspect.

For starters/alternators, I'm really a fan of new units from Powermaster. Or if you have a local rebuilder that you trust, that's another good option.



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