navy02ws6

iTrader: (4)

Security light has been on solid all the time for about a month now, ever since the day after I likely turned the ignition cylinder too far when it was taking too long to start after it got cold outside all of a sudden. Have not had any problems starting the car since then, but the security light hasn't gone out either. The light has never flashed, and it's never kept me from starting the car.

Have tried disconnecting the battery, reprogramming the fob, and also using my spare original key, which has been used maybe twice since the car was new. Did some research on here, and it sounded like the wires had broken off the ignition cylinder. Tore down the column, and of course the wires were broken. Repaired the wires, but the car still does the same thing. Car starts fine, but security light still won't go out.

I know everyone's going to say "just bypass VATS", but that is an absolute last resort for me. I also REALLY don't want to replace the ignition cylinder as I have 3 sets of ignition keys for this car, and I'd want to have at least 2 keys made for it, and of course I'm super broke after the holidays. Also don't want to spend $100+ on a cylinder and keys that I can't return after they've been cut and installed if that doesn't fix the problem.

Any ideas? Is it possible that it's the BCM, or something internal in the ignition cylinder that's causing the problem that's not related to the wires that were torn off? Or could just the slightest variation in voltage (such as different wire length or gauge) on the VATS wires still cause the light to come on?

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Replace the ignition cylinder. I tried repairing the wires once and it just doesn't work too well, the wires are so thin and get brittle with age.

How many times have you started it since your repair? It takes a couple successful ignition cycles for VATS to reset from fault enable mode.

RockinWs6

OR pull the cover under the steering coulomb unplug the connector for the ignition resistor and put a resistor of the same value as the key in the female connector.

Lup

If money is an issue, I would bypass the VATS temporality for testing purposes. If the light goes out after the bypass, you will know the cylinder needs replaced. Also testing that the BCM is ok if light stats off with bypass. Then when you have the money saved up, buy the cylinder and remove the bypass

Darth Cypher

The wires were broken and your car still started like normal? Maybe there is a "fail safe" mode to this or something but my wires were broken and my car did not start. Did you buy the car used? If so, is it possible the VATS bypass was already done?

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

It's called "fault enable mode", and it only happens if there's a problem after the engine is started. Mine was in fault enable mode for weeks before I could replace the cylinder and started just fine.

http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.html

navy02ws6

iTrader: (4)

I bought the car new, so I know for a fact that VATS has not been bypassed. Never had a VATS-related starting issue, and car has been starting absolutely fine since the light's been on.

I'll try cycling the key first, and then will try the bypass route as a test to see if the ignition cylinder is bad. Will report back for sure if neither of those fix it...Thanks!