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Long Story short. P0480 code - cooling fan relay 1 control circuit.
Fan #1 does not operate. I have done the following:
Tested relays, even swapped, even replaced - all fine
checked power at relay sockets - 12v - all fine
jumpered socket relay one with paper clip - fan came on (fan works)
so there must be a short between the relay an PCM or a short from PCM to fan
how do I narrow that down?
car NEVER over heats, never gets above 190*. thats stop n go drive and continuous driving.
just tired of seeing the SES light - its embarrassing
A good fellow on the above site was helping me, and it would be great if someone with electrical knowledge would read that post to see what he has helped me do thus far. however, there was a falling out with other peeps on that site, and I no longer visit.
he said it could be this connector:
he told me to "You can ground it using an ordinary pin and a jumper wire like the one shown in the photo. It can be just a piece of wire bare at both ends if you can use both hands. Push the pin tip a short way into the wire. Jumper the pin to chassis ground. Both fans should run on low speed. Each side of the connector should have the same results. If you have different results, that indicates the connector as the problem (bypass it). If the wire closest to the front works, that means that wire to the relay is good. If both work, that means the connector is good also and the wire to the pcm is bad. (bypass it). If neither works, the wire to the relay is bad, perhaps at the socket. Coat the holes in the wire where the pin went with a suitable protectant (clear nail polish, varnish, etc)."
Just a unique problem. I don't have an LS1, but the LT1 3 relay setup is pretty much identical.
When the PCM commands the #1 relay, both fans should turn on at low speed. You mentioned that the #1 fan does not run, can you please indicate which fan this is, i.e. left (driver side) or right (passenger side)?
Since you mentioned that the fan does turn on if you jump the relay, that says the fan is good. You can try jumping 12v to cavity C1 on relay #1 (the connector for relay pin #87) and see if both fans turn on. Just use a length of wire and temporarily connect it from the positive battery post to the pin in the fuse block.
thanks I will be gone the next few days, but plan on working on this soon. if you could please subscribe and follow my postings, i'd appreciate your help.
In post #145 I posted the SPAL controller and fans. That same controller will work with the 850watt sixth gen Camaro fan. That's what I'd use. It's pretty straightforward.
I found a stand alone unit that seems to end all the probs of controlling a pwm fan. You might have seen it but havent seen it posted in this thread. Im planning a dual fan set up for my cuz's GN, gonna try and make 2 of the BMW 850w fans work.. Ive done many Volvo #9497929 2sp fan set ups and for a brushed motor it works great! http://www.ma-uav.com/FanControllerv3.htmlhttp://www.ma-uav.com/Fan%20Controll...l%20Rev1.2.pdf
I found a stand alone unit that seems to end all the probs of controlling a pwm fan. You might have seen it but havent seen it posted in this thread. Im planning a dual fan set up for my cuz's GN, gonna try and make 2 of the BMW 850w fans work.. Ive done many Volvo #9497929 2sp fan set ups and for a brushed motor it works great! http://www.ma-uav.com/FanControllerv3.htmlhttp://www.ma-uav.com/Fan%20Controll...l%20Rev1.2.pdf
Anyone have experience with this controller? This poster is AWOL
I've been messing with fan controller used at beginning of this thread ( the one used on mazda/ mistubishi/nissan/tesla etc)
There are oem ones and chinese made aftermarket ones.
I've made a thread on another forum detailing both of those after teardown, so its pretty easy to tell the difference once you open them up. https://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/th....262823/page-3
Picture of chinese aftermarket version and oem unit on right
aftermarket vs oem
The oem ones i'm interested in if they can be unbricked, it appears the icu chip can put the unit into temporary or permanent failsafe mode ( of fans on full speed). Temporary failsafe mode is triggered when pwm signal is lost, permanent failsafe mode I dont know what causes it ( high voltage spikes?).
Here is the circuit board from the oem controller after teardown( controller can be taken apart and put back together)
The main IC chip ( shown by red arrow) I'm wondering if it can be reset without loosing whatever is programmed into its memory, but reset such that its no longer in permanent failsafe mode ( i.e. full speed all the time even with good pwm signal).
I've tested the main components on this board and all are fine and no obvious damage of other components.
The main IC has 48pins and the following model number written on it ( i cannot find the the pdf for this chip):
c5202 920 first line, second line 0452C3001, but third line is scratched out, wondering if anyone else can see the third line on their IC I believe it is the model number.
Here is video of how the controller comes apart:
03-27-2017, 02:41 PM
P0480 code - Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit 
I will be gone the next few days, but plan on working on this soon. if you could please subscribe and follow my postings, i'd appreciate your help.
