General Maintenance & Repairs Leaks | Squeaks | Clunks | Rattles | Grinds

Oil pan seal replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-20-2006, 04:01 PM
  #1  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
oifish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Noblesville Indiana
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Oil pan seal replacement

pretty much what the title says, How hard is it to replace this on an LT1?

any replies would be great

thanks
Old 04-21-2006, 07:44 PM
  #2  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
oifish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Noblesville Indiana
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

anybody...? I dont feel like spending 200.00 + for a mechanic to do it.
Old 04-21-2006, 08:07 PM
  #3  
10 Second Club
 
273sunsetZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tennessee Tech
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

I don't think it's that hard. All you should have to do is drop the pan, scrape the old gasket off, and apply the new one. Me and my dad put a shift kit in his 66 SS Nova, and we put a new gasket in when we were done. I know there is a diffrence between a turbo 350, and whatever the LT-1's have, but still, if nothing is in the way it shouldn't be too hard, as long as you had the basic tools.
Old 04-21-2006, 08:11 PM
  #4  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
oifish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Noblesville Indiana
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

cool, I was wondering because the local mechanic I go to is usually pretty honest, and for an estimate to be around 200 I was thinking it might be a difficult job. I will just have to take a look under and see how simple it is.
Old 04-24-2006, 12:28 PM
  #5  
Launching!
 
djkyle25's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: houston
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

haha i just did it
its a total pain in the *** it was alot harder because i had a y-pipe that runs right by it, but either way u have to hoist/jack up the engine 2-3 inches, and that includes unbolting motor mounts, and possible removing starter, takin off tranny mount, and then all the pain in the *** bolts
Old 04-25-2006, 05:39 AM
  #6  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
 
leadfoot4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Webster, NY
Posts: 4,611
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

(A) Get the car up off the ground SECURELY. Disconnect the battery, remove starter, remove front half of exhaust system, remove motor mount bolts, loosen tranny mount, lift engine carefully with a jack and 2x4 under crank pulley (Or engine hoist from top, if you have one), remove oil level sensor from pan, drop pan.

After doing all of this, if the car has a lot of miles, replace spark plugs, as you can now see them with the exhaust system out of the way.


(B) Give trusted mechanic $200, and let him have all of this "fun".
Old 06-03-2011, 06:04 AM
  #7  
Staging Lane
 
Insano Z28's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Reno,NV
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Started my oil pan seal replacement yesterday. What a major PITA! Not finding any real insight into the matter, I disconnected the puzzle piece type press fit seam andgot it into place that way. I'm not certain the actual architecture underneath a LT1 compared to my LS1, but having limited tools on hand this is going to give me nightmares. I used 2 bottle jacks to secure the engine into its lifted height against the sway bar. This enabled me to easily jack up the engine away from the k member all the way to cowl contact....max lift. I removed all accessories with exeption of the water pump. I will not be reinstalling the ac system. It was bound for removal anyhow for weight savings. The future shows my purchasing a cherry picker for my engine tranny upgrade...lol




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:29 AM.