ProjectKronos

I Read some stuff about guys doing their own tune up and also read something about SeaFoam. I didn't know what it was so I looked it up and found this information for anyone who may also need it. Read the following:

SeaFoam is used:

For the intake manifold:
This is the item that sits on top of the block and allows the air and fuel to mix before combustion. As can be imagined, left-overs accumulate on the inside of this aluminum item, and can reduce the efficiency of combustion due to contamination (lower MPG), as well as hotspots, which lead to pre-ignition (knock, detonation).

For the throttle body:
Similar to the intake manifold, this item accumulates sludge from the PCV system, where gases and suspended oil make their way from the valve covers into the side of the throttle body. Sludge also builds up from the intake manifold mounting point. The throttle blades will begin to stick and may not even close fully due to this, if left long enough. This causes high idling, poor throttle response, and reduced performance, and to remove the build-up is to cause the opposite.

For the gas tank:
Is our gasoline pure? No. Over time the contaminants build up in the tank, which effectively pollutes the gas that is continually added. The fuel filter does a good job of filtering this out, but without ever having the tank itself cleaned, the filter will need replaced more and more often. Besides this, some particles do pass through the filter and over time will accumulate in the fuel lines. At the end of the lines are the injectors, which also have residue building up on them due to being inside the intake manifold, where the other contaminants accumulate. So much sludge! To remove this is to increase performance by allowing better combustion due to purer fuel, which makes for increased MPG and more power.

For the engine oil:
Is our oil pure? No. Even synthetic oils will pick up contaminants, if not during production, then while in the engine. Over time parts wear down and microscopic pieces are suspended in the oil and hopefully are mostly filtered out by the oil filter. But the remaining particles sit in the oil pan, to be recirculated throughout the engine the next time the car is run. They will also tend to get lodged in small pits inside the engine, just as happens with the intake manifold. They are either transferred throughout all of the oil passages and to every part that the oil lubricates, or can lead to pre-ignition. Obviously this can wear out an engine more quickly than if they were regularly removed from the oil, as well as cause sluggish engine acceleration from sticky lifters, etc.

How to Remedy!
To clean the above as thoroughly as possibly, without actually removing the manifold, throttle body and gas tank, you'll need the following Sea Foam products:

Sea Foam Carbon Cleaner (2)
In a metal bottle with a screw-off cap. Used for cleaning the intake manifold, gas tank and engine oil.

Sea Foam Deep Creep
In a metal bottle with a spray-type nozzle top. Used for cleaning out the throttle body and the rest of the intake manifold.

Sea Foam says that they sell their products at "NAPA, Carquest, Auto Value, Parts Plus, O'Reilly and probably most independents [auto part stores]."

Follow these simple steps either 500 miles before every other oil change (every 5500-9500 miles), or 500 miles before every third oil change (every 8500-14500 miles), to keep your car running smoothly and efficiently. The first time you add Sea Foam to your engine oil, you may want to change your oil twice as soon as normal, due to the extra dirt that will be loosened up (i.e., if you normally change every 3000, do it in 1500, just for the next time).

****The intake manifold and throttle body will likely need cleaning more often than the gas tank and oil, so you can do the latter less frequently if you'd like to save money.****

Warning: your O2 sensors and/or spark plugs may get moderately dirtier if this is the first time you've cleaned your intake manifold and/or throttle body. You may wish to do this for the first time right before you install new ones.

1. Park car in a well-ventilated area.

2. Start car and run until it reaches closed loop (generally 5-10 minutes, and above 160°).
Open hood.

3. Find black hose that runs from the middle of the driver's side of the intake manifold into the black box on the firewall. This is the brake booster hose.
Remove the hose end from the black box; you'll hear the vacuum and the car's idle change.

If your car stalls out, then use the middle hose that attaches to the passenger side of the throttle body. It's an L-shaped piece of hose, that connects to a black box mounted on the pass. side of the intake manifold. Pull the end connected to that box, and use that for sucking the liquid in, detailed below.

4. Place end of hose into the top of the Carbon Cleaner bottle. Allow it to suck liquid out until the engine starts to idle noticeably lower; then remove the hose from the bottle. Do not pour enough to stall the engine yet.

Warning: Sea Foam does not recommend sticking a vacuum line into the bottle, but rather pouring the liquid into the line by using your thumb over the top of the bottle to regulate the flow. This prevents too much liquid from being drawn in and possible hydro-locking. It is your choice how to do it, at your own risk.

5. Repeat the above until between 1/3 and 1/2 of the liquid has been used.
Now let enough of the liquid be sucked in until it stalls the engine.
Turn off ignition.

6. Replace black hose end into brake master cylinder (the black box on the firewall).

If you used the throttle body connection, reconnect it back to the black box.
Pour the remaining 2/3-1/2 of Carbon Cleaner into crankcase (through the oil filler tube). If you want to be exact per its instructions, you can measure out about 7.5 ounces to add to a full oil supply of 5 quarts. This turns out to be between 1/3 and 1/2 of the can.

7. Pour other full bottle of Carbon Cleaner liquid into gas tank.

8. Remove intake bellows from throttle body and push up out of the way.
Have someone (or something) press the gas pedal all the way down, or manually move the throttle cable assembly under the hood, until the throttle blades are fully open.

9. Spray Sea Foam Deep Creep into throttle body, fully soaking the blades, the bottom, top, and up and down into the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Use a good amount.

10. Wipe off excess liquid and visible deposits from the throttle body and blades with a shop or paper towel (especially around the edges of the blades), and reconnect intake bellows.

11. Let car sit for a total of 15 minutes from the point you stalled the engine (however much of the 15 minutes is left after you've done steps 9-16).

12. Start car (it will be harder than normal).
Immediately take the car for a spirited drive, being sure to rev high as well as put a load on the engine to make best use of the Sea Foam in the oil valleys and lifter and ring areas. Enjoy the fogging of your neighborhood.

13. Then take it to the gas station and fill up the tank with 91+ octane (as always).

You are done! Congrats!

If your car hasn't been cleaned in awhile, or has a lot of build-up for some reason, notice how the idle is smoother, the throttle response is crisper, the engine revs more smoothly, and possibly how it even pulls a little harder. At your next oil change in 500 miles, the sludge from the engine oil and affected parts should be suspended in the Sea Foam, and will then be drained out into your catch pan. That would be a good time to switch to a synthetic oil and oil filter, if you aren't using them already, as the oil is purer and has good detergent properties, and these filters flow better, while trapping smaller particles.

This information was provided by this website i found, http://members.nuvox.net/~on.roz/cars/z28/seafoam.html

ProjectKronos

If anyone doesn't agree with this post, please let me know. or if they do, you can let me know that too....Comments, suggestions, tips, tricks, info...also welcome...

Sgt. Spuds

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like what I've heard you have to do. I am going to do it as soon as its time for a oil change.

Black FormulaLs1

iTrader: (10)

well since i use royal purple excleusively ..and its 6$ a quart..how much is this seafoam stuff..i have 112K on my formy and am kinda hesitant about just adding anything to it..let alone a $80 oil change..$45 oil and filter for change #1..and then change #2...see my point?

TX_SS

iTrader: (4)

after all that ****, you must change oil/filter, fuel filter, o2 sensors..

BigBas83

i thought letting your car stall out with this stuff was bad, and could cause damage. maybe I was misunderstood

4merlt1user

iTrader: (1)

i myself am affraid to do it, i mean im thinking of it in a different manner such as


Like a transmission if you have old dirty fluid in it, you dont really want to change it because of the risk of the dirty filter and fluid could possibly be what is stoping your tranny from breaking down.

sorry for the confusion all, i can think of it in my head but i just cant seem to get it typed out

and for that reason im thinking the same for the intake and dont want to risk the chance of anything hapening but then again i havent heard of anything going wrong so far

what do you guys think????

ZeeQuick

iTrader: (2)

I ran the seafoam through my intake at around 110K.....car smoked really bad for about 15 seconds, and then NOTHING. Did not bother to change O2s or plugs afterwards. Still get 28mpg on the highway and no codes, so I assume everything must be okay. Did not put any into my oil.....mostly because I had a few people tell me that messing around with pouring anything but oil into your crankcase is just asking for trouble. Haven't tried putting any in the gas yet....though I do run injector cleaner every 3000 miles. I noticed that the idle was a bit smoother after running the seafoam through the intake....could have just been my imagination though. I've heard a lot of people rave about seafoam....but is it really worth having to potentially replace all your plugs and O2 sensors??

1QuickBlkZ28

iTrader: (3)

1/3 in brake booster line...1/3 in crankcase...1/3 in tank took forever(15+ min) to get the brake booster hose off though...and 1/2 can of deep creep into throttle body bout to take her for a spin and get a oil change