My car is boiling over at 210 degrees.
06-17-2006, 09:43 AM
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My car is boiling over at 210 degrees. Once my car reaches 210 degrees, the low coolant light comes on the it boils over. The catch tank will fill all the way up and run out. I just bought the car and I'm sure the coolant hasn't been changed. It's not the best looking kind of brown shaded. I'm flushing it right now, could this be my problem or do you think there is something wrong with my thermostat? My hoses are getting hot. Could the thermostat not be opening? It does fine on the highway runs less than 180 but if you idle it to long it will boil over right around 210. My owners manual says dexcool isn't supposed to boil until 250 something. Do you think that the antifreeze just really needs changed. Thanks HELP.
06-17-2006, 09:46 AM
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i'd say it's the coolant if it's brown. its most likely lost all of its cooling properties and has reduced itself to vinegar, boiling at ~210*. see what happens after the flush. i take it your car is a 1998 if your temp gauge works? if your car is a 1999 - 2002, the temp gauge will always read about a mm below 210* once it's warmed up (unless it's overheating or ice cold). it's a dummy gauge that only shows you cold, warm, and overheating. the temp is very wrong.
06-17-2006, 10:15 AM
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Yes sir , my car is a 98. I'm draining the prestone flush right now. and then going to run it one time with straight water, and then I'll put the dexcool in. I just hope it isn't the thermostat. I drove it over 500 miles home last week and it didn't run hot at all. You could get it in stopped traffic, it would go up to almost 200 and then you could see the thermostat open and the temp drop. So I'm hoping the old orange has just crapped out, My owners manual says that it's supposed to last for 5 years, well I'm sure it's been in there about 8, time for a change. 50/50 hopefully will fix it. Thanks for your fast help. I'm in the driveway now. Brandon.
06-17-2006, 10:24 AM
#4
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thermostats in our cars open up at 180 degrees. what you saw at ~200 degrees when the heat dropped was the fans coming on. they come on at 210* in our car if i'm not mistaken. i personally think it's the coolant as it's not getting the job done, especially if it's bubbling over. if it IS the thermostat, they're only like $60 and i realize they're a pain in the *** to put in (at least it was on my 3.4L), you can always take it to the shop and pay 1 lousy hour of labor.
going up to 210* in stop and go traffic is perfectly normal. with this alumium block, it heats up VERY FAST. ****, even my old iron 3.4L would get up to 210* before the fans went on, but it would take a whole lot longer since it was iron. these aluminum blocks heat up in seconds, it's ridiculous! they cool off real quick though, too. great heat dispersion properities.
going up to 210* in stop and go traffic is perfectly normal. with this alumium block, it heats up VERY FAST. ****, even my old iron 3.4L would get up to 210* before the fans went on, but it would take a whole lot longer since it was iron. these aluminum blocks heat up in seconds, it's ridiculous! they cool off real quick though, too. great heat dispersion properities.
06-17-2006, 10:36 AM
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It's in the driveway right now running with straight water, with the heater on and its staying right at 180 degrees right on the nose. Won't get any hotter, and I haven't seen it get any cooler either. But the heat is hot. Thanks Brandon.
06-17-2006, 11:47 AM
#6
Fans on our cars dont come on til right around 228* if I'm not mistaken. Thats why most people make a manual fan switch or get them reprogrammed to come on around 190* like I did mine awhile back. 210* in stop and go is perfectly normal though, on the 4lane it should be 15-20 degrees lower than that, if not more.
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06-17-2006, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Black_Bird
Fans on our cars dont come on til right around 228* if I'm not mistaken. Thats why most people make a manual fan switch or get them reprogrammed to come on around 190* like I did mine awhile back. 210* in stop and go is perfectly normal though, on the 4lane it should be 15-20 degrees lower than that, if not more.
This post says it all.
06-17-2006, 02:12 PM
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Replace your radiator cap. If it's malfunctioning, it will release pressure, and the coolant will boil at a lower temp. Cheap fix, and if it's not the cause of the problem, you are only out a few bucks and 2 minutes.
06-17-2006, 09:26 PM
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wow heres my first post.. okay if youre gauge doesnt go over 210 in traffic thats fine and if your cooling fans are coming on thats fine but a coolant flush would also help, not because coolant has lost its properties, coolant isnt meant to cool its meant to prevent rust, lube the water pump and reduce freezing temperature thats it. water is what cools and if your previous owner saw the tank overflow he probably added coolant and no water throwing off the 50 50 mix thats needed, if its not cold out where you live just go with distilled water and water wetter and theres some additive you put in to i blanking on what it is called..
06-17-2006, 09:54 PM
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what i meant was, his coolant was totally shot to **** and immersed with contaminants. coolant goes sour - kinda turns into skunky vinegar. it starts to stink and it'll definitely boil faster if it's very old. that to me is considered losing its properties as it is no longer coolant, it's rusty skunk water. i think he just needs a flush - and maybe a new cap as posted above. after that he'll probably be fine. i bet it'll be working fine now that you changed that skunky coolant.
just hope it's not a bad head gasket
just hope it's not a bad head gasket
06-18-2006, 01:56 AM
#12
If its not overheating and getting over 210 its more than likely your radiator cap thats not holding pressure and allowing the coolant to boil over at atmospheric pressure which is 212. But for every psi of pressure the coolant is under i think it raises the boiling point like 3 degrees or something. Like stated above, they arent that much and try that first before you start assuming its a head gasket or something bigger.
