U-Joint Problem
06-28-2006, 09:00 PM
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U-Joint Problem Anyone ever had any problems with their rear u-joint squeaking or breaking? The squeak is pretty loud and seems linked to the rpms, the higher the rpms the louder and faster the squeak. Is there a way i could lube it? If not the u-joint then maybe a squeaky brake pad? Haven't had a chance to put the car up on stands yet to spin the tires by hand.
06-29-2006, 04:19 AM
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If they are the stock U-Joints you can't lube them. Spicer makes HD U-Joints for our cars in (2) verisons: (1) that you can lube thru a zerk fitting using a grease gun, & (1) that you can't.
To be honest with you, if ya get a replacement go with the non greasable versions of the Spicer. I had a set of the greaseables in my T/A at first but they will spray grease all over the underneath of your car at each end
So I put in the non-greaseable set and everything is fine
As far as how bad is it? It depends on the condition of the U-Joint ends and little roller bearings inside the caps. I can tell you that when the U-Joint fails - the DS is coming off - along with alot of other **** that is in it's way...
I would just replace the U-Joints on each end with a set of Spicers - should run ya around $60.
-Jay-
To be honest with you, if ya get a replacement go with the non greasable versions of the Spicer. I had a set of the greaseables in my T/A at first but they will spray grease all over the underneath of your car at each end
So I put in the non-greaseable set and everything is fine
As far as how bad is it? It depends on the condition of the U-Joint ends and little roller bearings inside the caps. I can tell you that when the U-Joint fails - the DS is coming off - along with alot of other **** that is in it's way...
I would just replace the U-Joints on each end with a set of Spicers - should run ya around $60.
-Jay-
06-29-2006, 10:31 AM
#6
Originally Posted by Ahmadi6490
Can you replace them yourself or would a shop have to do it?
and i dont know if its related to this or not, but every now and then when i put my car in revers, i hear this clunk noise. I did some search on this and from what i got, it seems to be related.
06-29-2006, 11:21 AM
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You can do it yourself as long as you have access to an Arbor Press or a Large Vise.
If they are the original U-Joints the cap retainers are actually a plastic that is flowed into the retainer groove. You have to heat the yoke ear area of the DS for the (2) caps with a torch to melt out the factory retainers, then using a short piece of pipe with an ID bigger than the U-Joint cap for the receiving end, and let's say, a socket slightly smaller than the cap OD on the other (driving) side, put in a press or a vise and push the cap on the receiving end out of the DS yoke ear by pushing on the driving end mandrel, then reverse the process for the cap on the other side only use something the same size as the u-joint spider shaft OD as the driving mandrel. Once both the caps are pressed out the u-joint spider will come right out of the yoke.
When installing the new u-joint you will first need to press a u-joint cap into the DS yoke from the outside of the yoke ear till the retaining clip groove on the cap clears the inside surface of the DS yoke ear, then install the new metal retaining clip onto that cap on the inside of the DS yoke. The new u-joint must be loosely installed into position between the DS yoke ears before you do this otherwise you will not be able to get it between the yoke ears. Make sure that as you press the new cap into place that the new u-joint shaft engages into the new cap.
You will then press the other (opposite side) new cap into the DS yoke ear from the outside - again until the retaining clip groove on the cap clears the inside of the yoke ear and agian, making certain that the u-joint shaft aligns with the bore of the cap as you press it in. Then install the other new retaining ring and you're done!
It probably sounds way more complicated/detailed from my description that it actually is. I've done quite a few u-joint replacements just using a large vise as the press with absolutly no problems.
-Jay-
If they are the original U-Joints the cap retainers are actually a plastic that is flowed into the retainer groove. You have to heat the yoke ear area of the DS for the (2) caps with a torch to melt out the factory retainers, then using a short piece of pipe with an ID bigger than the U-Joint cap for the receiving end, and let's say, a socket slightly smaller than the cap OD on the other (driving) side, put in a press or a vise and push the cap on the receiving end out of the DS yoke ear by pushing on the driving end mandrel, then reverse the process for the cap on the other side only use something the same size as the u-joint spider shaft OD as the driving mandrel. Once both the caps are pressed out the u-joint spider will come right out of the yoke.
When installing the new u-joint you will first need to press a u-joint cap into the DS yoke from the outside of the yoke ear till the retaining clip groove on the cap clears the inside surface of the DS yoke ear, then install the new metal retaining clip onto that cap on the inside of the DS yoke. The new u-joint must be loosely installed into position between the DS yoke ears before you do this otherwise you will not be able to get it between the yoke ears. Make sure that as you press the new cap into place that the new u-joint shaft engages into the new cap.
You will then press the other (opposite side) new cap into the DS yoke ear from the outside - again until the retaining clip groove on the cap clears the inside of the yoke ear and agian, making certain that the u-joint shaft aligns with the bore of the cap as you press it in. Then install the other new retaining ring and you're done!
It probably sounds way more complicated/detailed from my description that it actually is. I've done quite a few u-joint replacements just using a large vise as the press with absolutly no problems.
-Jay-
