Car is fast approaching 94,000 miles....
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Car is fast approaching 94,000 miles....
How can i make the car feel "tight" again? Things i can do to make the rattles , creaks , vibrations , and strange noises from the body and interior go away? The car is a 99 T/A M6. At times it seems to just want to fall apart. What bearings, joints , mounts and any other objects on the car that are prone to make noises or just wear out can i replace? I bought the car with just over 68,000 miles on it and i really do know nothing about it's past. It felt great when i bought it. Here lately though the car just feels "bleh". The engine feels great. ALL componets on the car are original except the headers, duals, shifter and rims.
So far i have came up with replacing all wheel bearings, throwout bearing , trans and motor mounts to poly mounts , ball joints, upgrading the suspension and adding SFC's... any other suggestions would be awesome .
So far i have came up with replacing all wheel bearings, throwout bearing , trans and motor mounts to poly mounts , ball joints, upgrading the suspension and adding SFC's... any other suggestions would be awesome .
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I was looking more along the lines of maintenance instead of modding at this time. things like replacing worn, broken and troublesome parts, therefore making the frame and car feel more ridged... or "tighter" . Im basically trying my hardest to make the car feel not so much like a 94,000 mile car .
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forget anything that has to do with internals....unless you are going to replace them....THAT is what is going to make your motor feel "more" tighter, but it wont ever feel like it use to, just for the fact that the block has worn in now, the car itself can be made to feel more like it used to...with lca's and subframes and several other suspension parts
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well the motor feels great... i was talking more about the body and interior itself . Like replacing bearings , and mounts, suspension components and the like, to make the car feel better. The engine feels fantastic ... just i wish there were more to love with the body. From squacky suspension to riding rough and making terrible sounbds when i hit a small bump.
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#9
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i'm going to say first off, put 3-point subframes on your car. that'll really help its rigidity. after that, get new shocks and struts. get a new driveshaft if you feel vibration through the gas pedal. new A-arms and an aftermarket torque arm can't hurt either.
as for curing creaking - tighten your spare tire! i had this horrible chirping and groaning every time i went over any bumps at all. i went to the track one night and took out my spare tire and jack, then later put them back in and retightened everything. problem solved!
as for curing creaking - tighten your spare tire! i had this horrible chirping and groaning every time i went over any bumps at all. i went to the track one night and took out my spare tire and jack, then later put them back in and retightened everything. problem solved!
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Take the car to a shop you trust and have them go through the suspension and brakes. Also have them review the driveline for possible u-joint replacement. If the car has been abused, the wear and tear will show up sooner, so you are smart to look into the car now since you aren't the original owner.
If the shocks are original, they have certainly outlived their usefulness (at zero miles they were no good as well...). Bilstein makes a great OE replacement and the car will feel like it's not only new, but much better than new. Stay with rubber components for the suspension. The poly stuff just isn't worth it.
AFA SFCs go, it's a toss-up to install them. I installed SLP bolt-on SFCs when I bought my car new, but I did that thinking I was keeping the car from losing its structural integrity over time. The factory has made significant improvements over the years in building unit-body framed cars, and many people who RR or AX will debate the SFC usefulness (although they make great jacking points). I remember installing SFCs on my 1979 Z28 after it had 75,000 miles and it was like buying a new car - you turned the steering wheel and the car went that way. These cars are built much better, however. HTH.
If the shocks are original, they have certainly outlived their usefulness (at zero miles they were no good as well...). Bilstein makes a great OE replacement and the car will feel like it's not only new, but much better than new. Stay with rubber components for the suspension. The poly stuff just isn't worth it.
AFA SFCs go, it's a toss-up to install them. I installed SLP bolt-on SFCs when I bought my car new, but I did that thinking I was keeping the car from losing its structural integrity over time. The factory has made significant improvements over the years in building unit-body framed cars, and many people who RR or AX will debate the SFC usefulness (although they make great jacking points). I remember installing SFCs on my 1979 Z28 after it had 75,000 miles and it was like buying a new car - you turned the steering wheel and the car went that way. These cars are built much better, however. HTH.
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
i'm going to say first off, put 3-point subframes on your car. that'll really help its rigidity. after that, get new shocks and struts. get a new driveshaft if you feel vibration through the gas pedal.
Can the u-joints actually create a 'slop' in the drivetrain, and a clunk when let the clutch out quickly?
And obviously a used ebay driveshaft is out of the question for that 'new' feeling. Would you maybe suggest have the DS balanced and have new u-joints put in instead of paying several hundred dollars for a brand new DS.
#12
I'd just go through the suspension. New bushings, stock not poly, get a decent set of shocks for it (Bilstein are excellent for stock springs) and possibly go with a set of springs since they are a breeze with the suspension apart anyway. I think just a set of shocks will make a world of difference.
A quick way to get rid of interior squeeks would be to lube and or armoral (or your favorite protectant) everything and all the cracks inside...ALL of the plastic joints in the car, and all of the weather strips around the doors/hatch/t-tops. You might be surprised at how quiet things might get after all the plastic joints are sqeeking from years of rubbing up against each other and drying out.
The suspension work will make it feel like a new car again. That would probably be the cheapest and most cost effective route...then if you want more go for STB and SFC's
Just my opinion of course..
A quick way to get rid of interior squeeks would be to lube and or armoral (or your favorite protectant) everything and all the cracks inside...ALL of the plastic joints in the car, and all of the weather strips around the doors/hatch/t-tops. You might be surprised at how quiet things might get after all the plastic joints are sqeeking from years of rubbing up against each other and drying out.
The suspension work will make it feel like a new car again. That would probably be the cheapest and most cost effective route...then if you want more go for STB and SFC's
Just my opinion of course..
#14
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Originally Posted by gun5l1ng3r
How does a new driveshaft help?
Can the u-joints actually create a 'slop' in the drivetrain, and a clunk when let the clutch out quickly?
And obviously a used ebay driveshaft is out of the question for that 'new' feeling. Would you maybe suggest have the DS balanced and have new u-joints put in instead of paying several hundred dollars for a brand new DS.
Can the u-joints actually create a 'slop' in the drivetrain, and a clunk when let the clutch out quickly?
And obviously a used ebay driveshaft is out of the question for that 'new' feeling. Would you maybe suggest have the DS balanced and have new u-joints put in instead of paying several hundred dollars for a brand new DS.