Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

My car has had a bad surge since I got it back from the shop and have be wondering if if i have a vacuum leak. I recently took off the TB and and maf and noticed it had some sludge in the IAC area and around the TB. After cleaning it I installed it, but it still does the same thing after I turn it on it hunts for an idle then shoots up to 2500-3000 rpms and will stay there up until it warms up and I turn off and on again. It seems to only do it in the mornings or if it has been turned off for a while. Other than that it willl run fine for most of the day. The only time the rpm's shot straight up was the other day when I was backing up into the garage, which left me scratching my head. Can anyone tell me what my problem is. I tend to think that if I had a vacuum leak it would always be persistent and not go away like mine does do you guys agree???

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

maybe a dumb question but what was done to it at the shop, and why dont you take it back and tell them that you are having this problem now after they worked on it, they may be able to diagnose it an fix it based upon what ever they did to it. in other words if it was in for a say intake gasket, maybe they didnt seal it correctly and they will back up their work...?

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Well, I would if i could, but considering they're about 3000 miles north east of where I live it's a little hard to take it back. ha-ha Don't get me wrong I'm not blaming the shop for this I just think that maybe after the install of the d-1 and all the air flowing through the maf and TB the IAC might have gone bad. The shop does great work that is why I shipped the car to them in the first place.. I just needed to know if the problem was say a vacuum leak would it be persistent or does the problem go away like mine does and then come back??

Thanks Andy

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Well, if this problem started after a major engine build up, there are countless things it could be. Anything from a hard parts issue to a tuning issue.

Honestly I wouldn't even try to suggest what you might attempt to replace first without seeing some data on a scanner. Stuff like LTFTs, TPS info (% @ idle and voltage), IAC pintle position @ idle, and maybe MAP reading vs outside baro. pressure (not sure what MAP readings are supposed to look like on a blower car though).

The fact that you have so many mods makes it hard to figure out these idle issues. Also there's no way to know exactly what the shop did in the way of tuning. You may need to contact them with your issue and see what they say.

402CAMAROSS

iTrader: (1)

Mine does the same thing when the temp. drops to about 65 degrees. When I start the car the idle shoots to 2500-3000 and sputters down to 500 then back up and down and up an..yeah. Touching the gas makes it worse. This happened even before the original engine blew up. I've tried a new t.p.s. (since its the cheapest sensor) and cleaning the trottle body and i.a.c. motor. Also when the weather is cold (after the car warms up) the idle seems to be up a couple hundred rpm from normal. Does the i.a.t. sensor have the ability to do this or would the i.a.c. motor be a better guess. No ses comes on during all of this. Does anyone sell some kind of scanner that shows actual sensor data for a reasonable price? I tried using the one that the local a-z uses but it dosn't show enough data. I'm having a problem with my fans staying on all the time and want to see if the computer is requesting them to be on (or if I have a stuck relay) and check out what sensors may be telling the computer.

Tirefire

iTrader: (1)

Mine did this in the summer so I don't think that temperature has anything to do with my problem. Right now I'm thinking it might be the IAC or maybe a slipping clutch?? One other thing my ses light came out other day when it did this, but then it went away by itself so I'll see if I can pull a code to help me out with my problem.