interior lights question
02-28-2007, 08:40 PM
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interior lights question Are the window controls/heater/ac gauges supposed to be lit up at night? On my 98, the only things that light up are: fog light switch and headlights control ****.
How easily is the radio bezel removed to check the leds there? Should I just pry it off? Any bolts holding it?
Thanks!
How easily is the radio bezel removed to check the leds there? Should I just pry it off? Any bolts holding it?
Thanks!
03-01-2007, 01:00 PM
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Check the 5 amp fuse in the dash behind the driver door. I had this same deal a week ago. The fuse looked good but it wasn't. Lights work again. No sense in R&Ring a bunch of stuff you do not need to in the beginning.
03-01-2007, 03:41 PM
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Thanks for a tip, lo_jack.
I pulled out that 5amp fuse this morning, it looked ok visually, but I didn't check it with the voltmeter (continuity check). I found the schematic diagram - it shows a lot of courtesy accessories are hanging off this fuse.
I pulled out that 5amp fuse this morning, it looked ok visually, but I didn't check it with the voltmeter (continuity check). I found the schematic diagram - it shows a lot of courtesy accessories are hanging off this fuse.
03-01-2007, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by darom
Thanks for a tip, lo_jack.
I pulled out that 5amp fuse this morning, it looked ok visually, but I didn't check it with the voltmeter (continuity check). I found the schematic diagram - it shows a lot of courtesy accessories are hanging off this fuse.
I pulled out that 5amp fuse this morning, it looked ok visually, but I didn't check it with the voltmeter (continuity check). I found the schematic diagram - it shows a lot of courtesy accessories are hanging off this fuse.
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03-01-2007, 09:54 PM
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lo_jack was right on: 5AMP fuse fixed my doors and PRNDL.
The only thing that doesn't work is HVAC controls. It might be the black ground wire (
Haynes book, page 12-46). I took the stereo out, maybe pulled on that wire. Or the light just burnt out.
Guys, thanks for your help. I will update the thread once I find that bad wire.
The only thing that doesn't work is HVAC controls. It might be the black ground wire (
Haynes book, page 12-46). I took the stereo out, maybe pulled on that wire. Or the light just burnt out.
Guys, thanks for your help. I will update the thread once I find that bad wire.
03-04-2007, 01:07 AM
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I checked the HVAC lights (2), they are good. I am going to tap that HVAC circuit positive (which is dead now) to the fog light switch positive. It is a wiring nightmare under the dash trying to trace the bad wire.
03-04-2007, 01:10 AM
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My headlight ****, and radio all light up fine, but my HVAC doesnt have any lights and it really bothers me. I'll check my fuse, and pull out the deck to check down for any wires that dont work either.
03-04-2007, 02:52 PM
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Here is a little write-up to fix your HVAC illumination (Haynes book page 12-46). Your problem may be different from mine. All usual disclaimer stuff applies (you fix it, you break it at your own risk).
1. Get the HVAC assembly out. There are too many cables in the back, you need just enough clearance to get the light bulbs out (2).
2. 2 light bulbs hooked up together into a wire tail that connects to the grey/black plug (grey hot, black - ground). The wiring color of the light bulbs is yellow (ground), grey (hot).
3. You need to figure out where the problem is. Once you verified that the 5AMP dimmer fuse is good. Unplug the light bulbs wiring from the grey/black plug (hard to reach in the back). Check the ground (black wire) with the voltmeter (continuity check). I used the parking brake metal as one ground. With the engine running and the headlight **** to the right, check the grey (hot) wire for 12 volts - don't forget to switch your voltmeter to the appropriate setting.
On mine, I had 12V on the grey wire, but the ground wire was bad. I added the ground wire to the yellow wire and hooked it up to the black ground stereo wire.
My light bulbs were busted as well. It was hard to see that until they were out of their sockets. Here is a tip: use a heat gun to warm up the sockets for the easy removal. They are stuck in there really good. Use tape on your pliers and carefully pry them out of there. You will need Sylvania 74 ($2.99 at Kragen's) replacement light bulbs.
Regards!
1. Get the HVAC assembly out. There are too many cables in the back, you need just enough clearance to get the light bulbs out (2).
2. 2 light bulbs hooked up together into a wire tail that connects to the grey/black plug (grey hot, black - ground). The wiring color of the light bulbs is yellow (ground), grey (hot).
3. You need to figure out where the problem is. Once you verified that the 5AMP dimmer fuse is good. Unplug the light bulbs wiring from the grey/black plug (hard to reach in the back). Check the ground (black wire) with the voltmeter (continuity check). I used the parking brake metal as one ground. With the engine running and the headlight **** to the right, check the grey (hot) wire for 12 volts - don't forget to switch your voltmeter to the appropriate setting.
On mine, I had 12V on the grey wire, but the ground wire was bad. I added the ground wire to the yellow wire and hooked it up to the black ground stereo wire.
My light bulbs were busted as well. It was hard to see that until they were out of their sockets. Here is a tip: use a heat gun to warm up the sockets for the easy removal. They are stuck in there really good. Use tape on your pliers and carefully pry them out of there. You will need Sylvania 74 ($2.99 at Kragen's) replacement light bulbs.
Regards!