Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

I was going to change my plugs today. All I have is the factory jack and a 5/8 deep well socket and wrench. And a concrete floor. Looked at the driver's side. Pice of cake. Looked at the first and second passenger's side plugs. No problem. The next one back -- starting to look hard. Then, once I find it, I see the dreaded #8 plug. How. The. Hell.

Jack it up and go at it from the bottom? Is there some sort of swivel extension or something? Is it as hard as it looks? I don't want to change all but that one, but that sombitch looks rough.

Oh, I have QTP LT headers, too.

taintedmeat

iTrader: (1)

Universal joint and a short extension. You'll want to ditch the coil pack or move the coil rack as well. It's really not too hard. The right combination of extensions and u/v joints makes it easy to get to all of them. Just feel your way around and put a pipe over the ratchet to use as a breaker bar if needed(I had to).

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Remove the coil pack? So, you go at it from the top then. Alright.

I'm trying to think of how a short extension will help...

taintedmeat

iTrader: (1)

It helped with me if I remember. I had the swivel on the plug socket, then the extension on after that. Allowed me to get at it from an angle that was a little easier from the top. Hardest part of it for me was breaking it loose. They were the original factory plugs, and I guess GM decided against using a dab of antiseize on them.

Zymosis

iTrader: (7)

I have somewhat long arms, and did it with STB on and coil packs fairly easily. I just reached along the engine from the front. Kind of hard to explain, but my friend was surprised when I showed how easy it was.

Yahelou

iTrader: (23)

I agree. removing the coil pack and gettin a swivel will help alot. I have heard that some ppl go underneath the car and do it. But I dont see how. But it can be easy to some and hard for others. If you got long, skinny arms then it might be easy. But if your like me, with some big *** arms, its gonna be a bitch.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

go from underneath it takes about 15 seconds to get if off from under the car, way easier than going from the top.

nickls1

iTrader: (2)

go to installuniversity.com they have a good write up on changing plugs. heres some good advice though, that last bolt on the coil packs is a pain in the ***, you will do well with a 10mm ratcheting wrench its the only thing i could fit in there. but everything else is explained on installuniversity. My biggest problem was removing the plug wires. I F&*$&^ hate those plug wires. you will mess your hands up bad taking them off.

oh and dont do it from underneath unless you have headers. the stock cats are so in the way its not even worth jacking the car up to try.

taintedmeat

iTrader: (1)

Mechanix gloves ftw

nickls1

iTrader: (2)

yeah that would probably be a good investment. my hands and arms looked like pizza after i was done changing plugs for the first time

Shinigami2x4

Going from underneath would be a wiser choice but it really depends on the year of the car because the cats got relocated in 00 i believe. Patience and taking your time will get you far for this swap.

edwardswb

iTrader: (6)

I did mine from underneath and I have big arms. Just don't be afraid to get scratched the **** up and curse a little. It's not too bad. (I have QTP LTs as well)

Quickin

Doesn't matter what type of headers you have, do them all from the top.

With the right tools, #8 plug should come out and a new one back in 5 minutes flat, with little effort. I used to use an indexable ratchet that worked great, but I didn't have one last time I did it and found something even better.

5-inch long ratchet with a 1/4" drive, 1" extension that converts 1/4" to 3/8", than your spark plug socket. That gives the perfect length to get around the exhaust manifold.

Now if some idiot didn't crank the spark plug down like a madman, it comes out in 2 minutes like butter.

I break mine free, than remove the ratchet and use my fingers to spin the extension and the spark plug socket. I put duct tape around the extension and spark plug socket for grip when I use my fingers, no annoying slippage while using your fingers.

Cake walk once you've done it the right way one time.

I do all 8 in about 35-40 minutes.


.

Bull

iTrader: (2)

Would investing in this tool be a waste of my money for this job?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIREH...95534245QQrdZ1

Sneakyws6

I did # from the bottom in less than minute the first time. I did the rest from the top.

I removed the passenger side coils and that side went pretty easy, then did nothing more than snake my arm on the drvers side. I also removed the plug boot protectors when I did mine to make it wasier next time.

I just removed my AIR system and it should help with the next plug change.

Shinigami2x4

Thats the SLP socket, you use an closed in ratchet wrench with it. Could work..

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Wow. Lot of good options and tips. Should try tonight. Took a look at the tool and the install uni. Thanks.

Oh, BTW, what is that box and the pass. side, sort of under the cowl? Going off memory, if that was gone, all the plugs would be reachable, you know?

Shinigami2x4

That would be your PCM..kinda important..

Sharpe

iTrader: (7)

Bah! This new fangled computer business is overrated! Who needs it?!


Why did they have to put the damn thing there?! Why not in the dash or somewhere out of the cotton picking way?!

MasterV8

iTrader: (7)

Did mine yesterday took about an hour! removed coil pack and AIR tube and used just a deep 16mm socket 1/2 drive had to sit on top of the engine to get at the right angle!
And the car got it's blood!
I usually sacrifice a small Kitten over the engine but my arms and wrists had to do this time. The Beast must be appeased!