1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

I just did the following to my car last week and now it idles fine but when I put it in gear it start to shake. While driving when I hit 1500 RPM the SES light starts to flash and continues until I go to stop and around 500 RPM it stops flashing and stays on (I delete the EGR and Air a couple of years ago so the light has been on since then). When I sit at a stop light the car really vibrates BAD.

Took intake off and painted
Replaced Oil pressure sending unit sensor
Replaced MAP sensor
Coils relocated
New fuel rails
lowered car

I have checked the plug wires both at the plugs and on the coils and they are tight. I have checked for pinched vac hoses and they are all fine.

What the hell could this be??????

3.4camaro

iTrader: (1)

go get the codes checked at autozone. That will point you in the right direction. Flashing SES = misfire. The code might tell you which cylinder.

What kind of plug wires did you use? The plugs might not be getting enough spark with the longer wires. longer wires means more resistance.

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

I used the thunderbolt wires that came with the Thunder Racing relocation kit. I will get the codes checked

edwardswb

iTrader: (6)

don't bother with the codes yet, check your wires. I had the same problem with those wires because they were a bitch to get on all the way. After I got em on, they have been great.

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

I have rechecked the wires and they are in tight. I ran the codes and I am getting #6 misfire and Injector circuit open. I unplugged the #6 injector and the car run the same with and without it. Does this mean the injector is bad?

edwardswb

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't say bad, could just be clogged.

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

What should I try to unclog it? Does it hurt the car to drive it like it is?

EDS01SS

iTrader: (30)

might not even be your injector.......check to see if you are getting power at the connector.I have had a problem with the main connector for the coils not connecting right. make sure that is all good first

qwkta98

change ur plugs

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

I am going to replace the injector and see what happens. I swapped the wire around an still threw a code for the #6 and the injector. I did have an injector that was very dirty while I did the intake and rails. I just wiped it off (I should have replaced it I guess). Any I am hoping that solves the problem.

Thanks for all of your help

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

Alright this is really pissing me off now. I have replaced the spark plugs, moved the injector from #6 to #8, moved the wires around to see if any changes. After doing all of this I am still getting the same f*&%ing codes (PO200 and PO306). What is left to check? Could it be the coil pack? How can you check the coil? The strange thing is the car ran perfect before the mod's.

robyrd

are you sure that you didn't cross any of your wires. i know that this sounds obvious, but i have done it enough times to suggest it.

Platinum WS6

iTrader: (6)

i agree it just sounds like a bad connection on wire or bad injector connection

WFOWS6_IL

iTrader: (3)

I would agree in making sure you are getting some kind of resistance through the injection plug with the car running. Then swap coils around and see what happens. You can have the coils tested, but I have sometimes seen that to not be accurate. Sounds like you are getting close!!

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

Well I swapped the injectors and still get the code. How do I check the resistance?

WFOWS6_IL

iTrader: (3)

I think resistance was the wrong word to use. Check the voltage from the plug that goes to the injector and the car should be running. I would assume it's in mVolts. Have you swapped coils?

LS1 car shouldn't be an exception, but if the coil doesn't have a good ground on the coil bracket, it wont work properly. I noticed you relocated the coils.

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

Well I went out today to take the car for a spin and the battery was dead. One problem after another. Anyway I bought a new battery and put it in. The strange thing is I am still getting the same P0200 and P0306 (after clearing the codes). The car actually runs pretty good and does not shake me to death at stop signs. Is it possible that the battery was causing some of the problem? My SES light is still flashing but the engine is running somewhat smooth.

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

Alright I am still messing with this. I have swapped the coil pack and wires from #4 to #6. After doing this I now get the P0300 and P0200 code. What should I check next? The car is burning gas like there is no tommorow. The exhaust has a horrible smell. Can anyone help????

hhidyhoneighbor

had a buddy with a T/A ran like **** above idle and he had a injector o-ring leak and the only way they found it was spraying carb cleaner all around the injectors and intake area and BAM, when you did the mods you induced the problem, id put the old map back in and check for vacume leaks with carb cleaner, otherwise youve eliminated just about everything else. im not an expert or a mechanic however you did remove the intake and said you changed the fuel rails, just another suggestion. good luck bro

also dont remember what the PO200 code is but your PO300 is the same code im getting which leads back to the plugs i put in couple of weeks ago, shitty plugs equals various misfires, but you already changed those.
i think it has something to do with your intake/ fuel rails/fuel injectors.

just a thought

1BAD99TA

iTrader: (3)

I just replaced the o-rings on all injectors yesterday and I still get the P0200 code. I am now getting p0300 most of the time along with p0200. But every once in a while I get either P0305 or P0306 (never at the same time). I am very cofused at this point. I also unplugged each injector while the car was running and when I unplugged #4 and #6 (one at a time) the was no change in the idle but when I unplugged the other 6 the engine bogged down. Any ideas???

Thanks