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P0138, P0140, P0160. Header trouble.

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Old 06-04-2007, 08:09 PM
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Default P0138, P0140, P0160. Header trouble.

Hey guys,

I recently installed my longtube headers a couple months ago. Ever since ive had a header leak and not been able to fix it. But lately ive been experiencing some more problems other then that.

Ive recently noticed that whenever im cruising normally at 1500rpms in 5th or 6th gear, then give my car 60% throttle it starts popping like mad, not back firing but a popping sound. Also it occurs whenever I floor it and it starts reaching redline it starts the popping aswell in any gear.

I ran a scan just now and three codes showed up: P0138, P0140, and P0160.

P0138 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)
P0140 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0160 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)


What do you guys think? Is this causing the popping do you think? Are my 02's shot? What side of the Car is Bank 1 and 2?

Thanks!
Old 06-04-2007, 10:02 PM
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Bank 1 is driver's side, bank 2 passenger side. Are you still running cats? If not the rear O2 sensors will detect a problem. I have also read that even if you still run cats after installing longtubes the codes for rear O2's will still come up because they aren't getting the readings they are supposed to. As for the popping, if it is most noticeable under heavy loads most likely your exhaust leak is getting worse.
Old 06-04-2007, 10:45 PM
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Yah im not running CATs and ive got the 02 simulators for the rear ones. Im guessing sensor 2 are the rear ones.... hmmm
Old 06-04-2007, 10:55 PM
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When my front two went out (B1, S1; B2, S1), it also made the rears throw bad. Once I changed them, no codes. So, the front ones can make the back ones throw bad, I guess. Sounds like your passenger's side front is out, but I'd change them both. Get the Bosch 13111's, then you won't need extensions and they are a little better than the stock ones, I hear.

Anyway, when i changed mine after the QTP LT headers, it fixed my backfire/pop/miss/whatever it was.
Old 06-05-2007, 04:28 PM
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I don't think it's the front O2s, none of those codes are for fronts (Sensor 2 = rear). Make sure the sims are plugged in good and tight. Where are the wires going to the sims? Did they perhaps touch the headers and melt?
Old 06-11-2007, 01:29 AM
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Ran the scanner again today and found that P0158 is on now. P0158 = O2 Circuit High Voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2.

So both of them are out now, coincidentally. I looked under the car and all the wires are fine.

Maybe some how these sims got fried somehow...?

Anyone..
Old 06-11-2007, 06:05 AM
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F 'em.....get a tune
Old 06-11-2007, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by waldershrek
F 'em.....get a tune
I don't know much information on having it tuned. Do I have to send in my PCM? Also I have to go through emission tests, will this affect me in anyway?
Old 06-11-2007, 11:15 PM
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My friend gutted his cats and installed o2 sims but one of the o2 sims was throwing out the P0140 (No Activity) code so he bought a Diablosport Predator Handheld Tuner and it tuned out the code as well as others that had to do w/ EGR AIR and o2 sensors.
Old 06-12-2007, 08:00 AM
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I had a O2 harness fry on my LT's on the driver's side right by the motor mount. Blew the engine sensor fuse under the hood as well. Then the computer goes into cripple mode and runs really rich to protect the motor. I would check the O2 harnesses coming down and make sure they aren't touchin the header.

Then I would buy the O2 sims!
Old 06-15-2007, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by manniehyphy
My friend gutted his cats and installed o2 sims but one of the o2 sims was throwing out the P0140 (No Activity) code so he bought a Diablosport Predator Handheld Tuner and it tuned out the code as well as others that had to do w/ EGR AIR and o2 sensors.
Well I wasnt going to mention it, but I have two other codes that have been running for just about a year now that I can't seem to get rid of. And they have to do with the EGR AIR.

P0412 and P0410. I started off by replacing the Air Solenoid relay and that hasnt fixed the problem, and also ive put the test lamp between the positive and negative connections where the solenoid goes and it lights up. Which means the faulty part in the circuit was just the solenoid (thats what I heard from a post). However the DTC light is still coming back.

Also this is probably the reason why it takes 2 seconds for the engine to start up when its cold. hmmmm anyone?
Old 06-16-2007, 01:58 PM
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bump for some peoples views



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