Check Engine light
07-31-2007, 01:38 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check Engine light My check engine light is on and I have determined it is due to a blown air pump fuse. Every time I replace the fuse it immediately blows again. I changed the relay also but same thing. What is considered the "air pump" on these cars as I know there is no belt driven pump on the front of the motor. I need to get this car smogged tomorrow so I'd appreciate any help/advice any of you might have on this situation. Thanks.
07-31-2007, 02:08 PM
#2
Someone will probably chime in with the fix, but as I understand it, the "air pump" warms the cats. I could be wrong, though, so don't act on my info. Not 100% sure.
In other words, don't worry about it, unless the light is bothering you. I drive around with mine on (no cats, EGR, or rear O2s after header install).
In other words, don't worry about it, unless the light is bothering you. I drive around with mine on (no cats, EGR, or rear O2s after header install).
07-31-2007, 02:13 PM
#3
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Long Beach CA
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well he needs to get the car smogged tomorrow so a CEL or SES wont pass visual inspection (at least here in CA, not sure about rest of US) for a quick fix i would replace it with a higher amp fuse for now so it wont blow again and throw a code.
07-31-2007, 02:15 PM
#4
TECH Senior Member
Look up the actual code/diagnostics at gearchatter.com for your year - sounds like P0410 or P0412? The air pump is electrically activated, and located under the drivers side front wheel well below the headlight. If you only have the sniffer test make sure the car is nice and warm before testing, might be OK.
07-31-2007, 04:49 PM
#5
FormerVendor
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 668
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SmallblockV8LS1
well he needs to get the car smogged tomorrow so a CEL or SES wont pass visual inspection (at least here in CA, not sure about rest of US) for a quick fix i would replace it with a higher amp fuse for now so it wont blow again and throw a code.
07-31-2007, 04:55 PM
#6
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Land of the Old
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Eurospec2
Wow please dont do this, if youve replaced the fuse and the relay and it still pops then the motor is probably bad, which means yoru feeding teh juice to a dead short, which is why yrou fuse blows. You up the amp of the fuse and bad things can happen....
08-01-2007, 06:50 AM
#7
LS1Tech Administrator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Schiller Park, IL Member: #317
Posts: 32,040
Likes: 0
Received 1,492 Likes
on
1,074 Posts
DO NOT use a higher amp fuse. That's a fire risk.
Moving to General Maintenance & Repairs....
Moving to General Maintenance & Repairs....
