JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

The alternator and battery were working just fine before we dropped the motor. The PS pump was leaking a bit, so during cleanup I sprayed the alternator with carb claner to clean it. Maybe a week later the alternator was mounted to the block on the engine stand. The small wire which attached to the alternator was broken for about a year, and already repaired once. We spliced in a better connection, and also crimped on a new eyelet for the large wire.

I drove the car ~20 miles on the initial test drive. When I get back to the shop a friend notices the battery voltage is below 13, and the scanner says 12.4. We put a multimeter on the battery terminals and it appears the alternator isn't charging. I accidentally leave my wideband turned on and conencted to the cigarette lighter and the battery drains.

Notice the dead battery a couple of days later and my friend charges the battery. My friend did confirm all the grounds are attached. Park it and pick it up the same night and drive 10 miles home with the only issue being I lost my clutch pedal, presumably from the line resting on the header (fixed).

Took it for a test drive last night to work on the tuning. Drove it about 5 miles and pull off to make some changes in the tune. Dome light on, wideband plugged in, laptop not plugged in. A few minutes later I'm done, and the car won't start. The lights in the cabin dim while cranking, and eventually I get the fast clicking. Call a different friend and he comes to give me a jump. Car stalls once in the same parking lot, but restarted pretty easily. Follow my friend back to his house (which is on the way back to mine) and let it charge overnight.

He takes it to Autozone today to have the alternator & battery tested. He is told both are good, and the alternator is putting out 70A.

We plan on fighting with it this evening. Where do we go from here?

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

Didn't have any luck that evening. I have noticed that the Check Gages idiot light will flicker randomly while the engine is running. It seems like there's a hiccup in the power if it comes on at WOT, though.

We're going to check the positive lead on the alternator next. The wire may be tight, but the stud which holds it tight to the alternator housing may be loose.

Any other ideas?

GregAbell60143

It states on the cans of carb cleaner, not to spay it onto electronic items. Since you've had the alternator checked, and it still shows as being good, re-check your wires. Usually, the large wire that attaches to the stud on the alternator, will have the other end attached to the large stud on the starter's solenoid, along with the power lead from the battery. Make sure you have both of those large wires going to the stud on the starter solenoid. It is possible to mistakenly hook that alternator lead to a ground. Even though the alternator currently checks out good, it may be on borrowed time, now that it has been sprayed with the carb cleaner. That stuff can eat the coating off of the wires, that keep the windings from shorting out.

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I bit the bullet and took it to the dealer. They replaced the PCM wire first, but only received 22A at the alternator. Then they replaced the alternator and everythings back up to snuff. They claim Autozone didn't properly perform the alternator test, but the battery is OK.

autotrix

iTrader: (5)

Gheez, talk about chasing your tail! Glad to hear its fixed!

JimMueller

iTrader: (9)

I actually posted the last comment before picking up the car. It's been a long phricking time since my battery charge was that far past 12o'clock! THe little plug-in digital gauge tells me now I'm getting 13.9V at idle, with the underdrive crank pulley. It didn't help the passenger side window motor (didn't expect it to do so).

Next up? Repair the rear end