please help battery goes dead after siting
#1
please help battery goes dead after siting
hey guys my battery goes dead after siting for about a week. i havent been driveing the car lately and has been in the garage. i had the alternator tested and came back good and the battery came back good also. nothing seems to be on in the car i dont have a aftermarket alarm to kill it{just the factory one}. i was out of town for 6 days and and the car just sat there and now i went to crank it up and its compleatly dead even with my booster pack it wont even make the key in or door chimes. what could it be?????
i realy need you help guys. im going to get a replacement battery from advanceunder warranty.
i realy need you help guys. im going to get a replacement battery from advanceunder warranty.
#2
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you might have a parasitic drain going on somewhere. hook a multi meter up to the battery and get someone to start pulling fuses. when you see a change you will have found the problem. who tested the battery, how old is the battery, and what brand is the battery? sometimes a crappy battery will read good.
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I had a glovebox light causing the exact thing you describe. Couldn't see it during the daylight and only barely even at night.....something to check. The switch was bad/out of adjustment and the light was staying on even with the door shut.
Chris
Chris
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Sometimes a bad alternator will read good too. If its not a sealed battery did you check all the cells to see if they have acid in them? If they are low you can refill with distilled water. But really you need to hook up a dmm on it to see if its draining from somewhere.
#5
the battery is an advance auto titanium and was about a year old.it had warranty on it so they gave me a new one. i will put the new battery in tomorrow and its very dark in my garage with the door closed so ill see if any lights are on.
#6
Sometimes a bad alternator will read good too. If its not a sealed battery did you check all the cells to see if they have acid in them? If they are low you can refill with distilled water. But really you need to hook up a dmm on it to see if its draining from somewhere.
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#8
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I have the same problem about the battery dying.
I have a brand new AC DELCO battery I installed back in April/May of this year, but do not drive the car much.
I do start it up at least once in 2 weeks and drive a bit to get the fluids/mechanics/tires moving. (I have to charge the battery to full strength before firing her up.) Should I check the glovebox light as suggested in the earlier reply?? If it is the glovebox light, how do you fix that?
Thanks for any info!!!
I have a brand new AC DELCO battery I installed back in April/May of this year, but do not drive the car much.
I do start it up at least once in 2 weeks and drive a bit to get the fluids/mechanics/tires moving. (I have to charge the battery to full strength before firing her up.) Should I check the glovebox light as suggested in the earlier reply?? If it is the glovebox light, how do you fix that?
Thanks for any info!!!
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I guess the best way to remedy this would be to disconnect the battery??
Just charged up the battery for an hour and it is fully charged and fired her right up.
Just charged up the battery for an hour and it is fully charged and fired her right up.
#12
I used to work in an electric shop and we would see cars like this all the time. It usually turns out to be something like a vanity mirror light, glovebox light, or some other small light that you don't think about.
To figure out which one, disconnect the battery and hook up an ammeter in series with the battery post to cable (doesn't matter positive or negative). If you car has courtesy lights or anything else, it may take a little while for the amps to go down. You'll have to disconnect aftermarket alarms so they won't go off.
I usually looked for less than 0.003 A draw on a car. Anything much more and something is on. To isolate, pull one fuse at a time until the draw goes away. You'll need a wiring diagram to do this effectively.
Also, you can use a test light in place of the ammeter.
To figure out which one, disconnect the battery and hook up an ammeter in series with the battery post to cable (doesn't matter positive or negative). If you car has courtesy lights or anything else, it may take a little while for the amps to go down. You'll have to disconnect aftermarket alarms so they won't go off.
I usually looked for less than 0.003 A draw on a car. Anything much more and something is on. To isolate, pull one fuse at a time until the draw goes away. You'll need a wiring diagram to do this effectively.
Also, you can use a test light in place of the ammeter.