How to remove the engine from the bottom - LS1 fbody - Page 2 - LS1TECH



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Old 05-18-2016, 06:15 PM
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How to remove the engine from the bottom - LS1 fbody

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Old 02-04-2008, 04:39 PM   #21
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Well i actually finished my motor removal maybe a month ago. Well as i was pulling body up it forgot one of the connector and the thing split. It was connected to like the bottom passenger side of the block right by the starter i guess it might even be the low oil sensor. How in the world can I fix that bc i am no pro solderer so??
You don't have to be a pro solderer. Strip back both sides of the wire, slip some heatshrink over it, twist it together, and hold your soldering gun on the back of the wire for a few seconds until it gets hot. Touch the solder to the wires and it will 'soak' into the strands. After it cools, pull the heatshrink over it and heat it up.
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:13 AM   #22
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Great write-up, Kelly - thank you! I had just started searching on this and could not find a detailed write-up. Yours is perfect! Very carefully done and well written on top of that!
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:34 AM   #23
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that couldnt be any better nice tut could have use it a month ago lol
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:47 AM   #24
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Great write up.

It gets a bit more tricky if you dont have a lift though lol
lol jacks and an engine hoist is an art...

STICKY!!!!!!!!
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Old 02-05-2008, 12:56 AM   #25
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Nice write up. I did this on a 93 Z28 in a one car garage with a cherry picker and some jack stands.

My question is about the brakes. Do you have to take it to GM to bleed the brakes. The brakes on that 93 suck and I have bled them several times.

I am trying to talk myself in/out of a cam install on my Firehawk. If I do, it's coming out the bottom. I would much rather do that than out the top on one of these cars.
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Old 02-05-2008, 04:44 AM   #26
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Guarenteed Sticky

Great job Keliente

What are your plans for the car? Why are you pulling the entire motor?
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Old 02-05-2008, 07:01 AM   #27
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deff sticky material.. this is going to help me alot on my project
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Old 02-05-2008, 11:12 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10 View Post
Nice write up. I did this on a 93 Z28 in a one car garage with a cherry picker and some jack stands.

My question is about the brakes. Do you have to take it to GM to bleed the brakes. The brakes on that 93 suck and I have bled them several times.

I am trying to talk myself in/out of a cam install on my Firehawk. If I do, it's coming out the bottom. I would much rather do that than out the top on one of these cars.
You don't need to pull the motor just for a cam swap. Just take the radiator and fan assembly out and tilt the AC condencer up out of the waw and the cam will slide in and out with plenty of room.
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Old 02-05-2008, 11:22 PM   #29
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No. You don't need the Tech 2.
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Old 02-06-2008, 06:35 PM   #30
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Guarenteed Sticky

Great job Keliente

What are your plans for the car? Why are you pulling the entire motor?
Well I'm doing a twin turbo kit, which requires changing the k-member...secondly, it looks like a pain to install the kit while the engine is in the car, so that's another reason it's coming out, easier to work on. Thirdly, I wanted to do an oil pump/timing chain since I never did them when I did my cam, and lastly I also have some 317 heads to put on.

So one thing kind of led to another, and at this point it seems a whole lot easier to pull the engine out instead of diddling around with it inside the car.
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:50 PM   #31
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A question on the brakes. Do you just bleed them normally? At the caliper ? And great writeup just in time. Also could you take out the bottom k member bolts first and the shock tower ones last? I don't have a lift and I'd rather not be under it when it comes loose LOL. Did you leave the power steering pump in the car or disconnect it?
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:18 PM   #32
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That's a very good write up. I usually just condense all that down to a few sentences. I like your last step the best though. That is indeed a true necessity. It depends on if you have traction control or not whether you have to use the special tool to do the brakes. If you have traction control you need a Tech-1, 2, or scan tool. If you don't have traction control you can just bleed them normally by following the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front process.
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Old 10-28-2008, 07:25 AM   #33
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Isn't their a ground strap on the back of the engine/head somewhere that attaches to the body?
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Old 09-15-2009, 06:02 PM   #34
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thanks to a great write-up.......success, and nothing broke.

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Old 04-12-2010, 08:08 PM   #35
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ah HA! I thought you looked familiar! I am just gonna bring my car over to you when I get to this point fantastic write up!!
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Old 04-13-2010, 03:21 AM   #36
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After a few years I think its time to put this where it can be easily found. Especially since these 4th gens are getting older and are prone to needing swaps these days.
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2004, bottom, chrysler, cruiser, engine, fbody, ground, hoist, keliente, ls1, ls1tech, pt, remove, removing, sensor, speed, strap, wheel

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