Please, need help- TA dies...
02-10-2008, 03:19 PM
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Please, need help- TA dies... I need some help... Here's the car with it's mods-
2000 Pontiac TA
stock internals
z06 valvesprings
Zo6 Cam
jet hot LT headers
LS6 intake
Lid + K&N filter
85mm MAF
no AIR
no EGR
250A alternator
Optima Yellow top battery
PCM has been programmed to delete codes for mods
Now, after all the mods had been done, I drove the car for 3 months with no problems. Then- the car was put into storage for a year (started monthly)
and shipped overseas. I recieved the car, and drove it for approximately a week. Two days after recieving the car, it stalled on me. The motor just quit like the key had been removed, but it started right back up with no problems. It did this several more times throughout the week. Then the problem became worse, it would die, and not start for 15-20 minutes. The car would just crank and crank without starting. Then a day or two later it would not start again until an hour or so had passed. I thought the MAF or some sensor had gone bad, so I had the codes read since i got a SES light. ( I noticed this was on after i picked the car up) The code read "P0102" (I think) "high/Low MAF voltage" (i think). So, I replaced the MAF and throttlebody. This made no difference. I then replaced both o2 sensors with brand new ones, and this made no difference. The car when started will run for approx. 5-7 minutes then instantly die (like the key is turned off), and will not restart, only crank until the battery is dead. If I let it sit for an hour or two, it will start again, just to die in 5-7 minutes again. It's going to be extraordianly expensive for me to get the car repaired at the local Italian Chevrolet dealer, so I would really like to fix this myself if possible. So, please if anyone has any idea what this could be, please post. Thanks!
2000 Pontiac TA
stock internals
z06 valvesprings
Zo6 Cam
jet hot LT headers
LS6 intake
Lid + K&N filter
85mm MAF
no AIR
no EGR
250A alternator
Optima Yellow top battery
PCM has been programmed to delete codes for mods
Now, after all the mods had been done, I drove the car for 3 months with no problems. Then- the car was put into storage for a year (started monthly)
and shipped overseas. I recieved the car, and drove it for approximately a week. Two days after recieving the car, it stalled on me. The motor just quit like the key had been removed, but it started right back up with no problems. It did this several more times throughout the week. Then the problem became worse, it would die, and not start for 15-20 minutes. The car would just crank and crank without starting. Then a day or two later it would not start again until an hour or so had passed. I thought the MAF or some sensor had gone bad, so I had the codes read since i got a SES light. ( I noticed this was on after i picked the car up) The code read "P0102" (I think) "high/Low MAF voltage" (i think). So, I replaced the MAF and throttlebody. This made no difference. I then replaced both o2 sensors with brand new ones, and this made no difference. The car when started will run for approx. 5-7 minutes then instantly die (like the key is turned off), and will not restart, only crank until the battery is dead. If I let it sit for an hour or two, it will start again, just to die in 5-7 minutes again. It's going to be extraordianly expensive for me to get the car repaired at the local Italian Chevrolet dealer, so I would really like to fix this myself if possible. So, please if anyone has any idea what this could be, please post. Thanks!
02-10-2008, 05:06 PM
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Sounds like a Crankshaft or camshaft position sensor to me. My 2002 2500HD had a crank sensor go bad. It would drive for 15 minutes and cut off when it went into closed loop. Try driving your car until it dies and then clearing the codes with your code reader (if it can). It should start right back up and run for another 5-7 minutes as your stated. Do a little research on both of those sensors and see if that sounds familiar.
02-10-2008, 11:09 PM
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Nope, security light doesn't come on. It's acting like there isnt any spark, or the computer isn't allowing the motor to start.
OK, cool- i'll look into that. Thanks! Does anyone have any other ideas i can check out?
Sounds like a Crankshaft or camshaft position sensor to me. My 2002 2500HD had a crank sensor go bad. It would drive for 15 minutes and cut off when it went into closed loop. Try driving your car until it dies and then clearing the codes with your code reader (if it can). It should start right back up and run for another 5-7 minutes as your stated. Do a little research on both of those sensors and see if that sounds familiar.
02-10-2008, 11:30 PM
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It doesent seem like those are the symptoms i'm experiencing. It's not backfiring or flashing a SES light. Here's a thread i found regarding the CPS: https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ensor+position
anyway- i'll look into that. It jyst sucks I gotta pull the intake manifold first. Thanks! Does anyone have any other ideas i can check out?
EDIT: Tonight when I get home, i'm going to Reset the SES light and do the PCM re-learn procedures. Maybe (slim chance) it'll clear codes and work right before I go ripping the intake off.
anyway- i'll look into that. It jyst sucks I gotta pull the intake manifold first. Thanks! Does anyone have any other ideas i can check out?
EDIT: Tonight when I get home, i'm going to Reset the SES light and do the PCM re-learn procedures. Maybe (slim chance) it'll clear codes and work right before I go ripping the intake off.
Last edited by Snootch; 02-11-2008 at 08:19 AM.
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02-11-2008, 11:23 AM
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Actually I did use Lucas fuel stabilizer before i put it in storage. I'm not sure it's a fuel problem, because it starts up and runs fine for 5-7 minutes and doesn't sputter or hesitate one bit. it just dies instantly like I turned the ignition off.
02-11-2008, 12:08 PM
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Dammit, i reset the PCM and then did the PCM re-learn procedure and it ran for 10 minutes then died. BUT, I noticed that when it's colder outside it runs longer before dying. I think that it is dying once the motor warms all the way up, not necessairily at a specific time but I could be wrong. Any other thoughts besides the cam position sensor?
Last edited by Snootch; 02-11-2008 at 12:23 PM.
02-11-2008, 08:26 PM
#11
I know it's not the same car but had a buddy with a Taurus SHO that did basically the same thing, would just crap out on him, almost predictable on the time too. He changed crank pos. sensor and it ran perfectly after that. I'm with that or cam sensor personally.
02-12-2008, 12:47 AM
#14
my car had the same symptoms when the engine coolant temperature sensor was not connected properly and dirty. the car would get warmed up and then kill itself, but it would start if i held the gas pedal to the floor and turned the key. i flashed a ses for coolant sensor tho
02-12-2008, 05:42 AM
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my car had the same symptoms when the engine coolant temperature sensor was not connected properly and dirty. the car would get warmed up and then kill itself, but it would start if i held the gas pedal to the floor and turned the key. i flashed a ses for coolant sensor tho
02-12-2008, 12:01 PM
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I'm not asking to be spoon-fed, but I looked and can't find the part #'s or locations of these sensors. can anyone please shed some light on this?