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HELP!!!! My car wont stay running!!

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Old 03-11-2008, 07:32 PM   #1
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Default HELP!!!! My car wont stay running!!

It just started this like ten min ago. As long as I'm moving or reving it's fine but if I put the clutch in or come to a stop of any kind the volt meter starts to immediately drop ad the damn thing shuts off. Is it the alternator? That was my first guess but Im not sure. Someone please help!!!
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Old 03-11-2008, 08:52 PM   #2
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Anyone?
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:23 AM   #3
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maybe IAC gone bad.
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:51 AM   #4
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Is the check engine light on?
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TxDad-97SS View Post
maybe IAC gone bad.
Sorry for the stupidity but what's the IAC?
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:19 AM   #6
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Is the check engine light on?
Yep. It is.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:34 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Navy01Z View Post
Yep. It is.
The first step is to find out what code it's stored
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:34 AM   #8
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The IAC is the Idle Air Control valve. It control the flow of air at idle (don't mean to sound like an ***). If this goes bad, you engine will die every time you let off the gas. It's located on the TB. If you run the codes, it will tell you what has gone bad.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:36 AM   #9
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The first step is to find out what code it's stored
+1...........
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Old 03-12-2008, 07:14 PM   #10
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I took it over to Advance Auto today and had them load test it. Turns out the alternator is fine but the battery was bad. Very wierd considering the battery is only like a year old but either way. I bought an Optima red top and porblem solved. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-12-2008, 09:41 PM   #11
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Here is what caused your problem, it's amazing how common this is in all cars. (Forgive me, i'm bored) Your battery was damn near dead so it was drawing a lot of current from the alternator. More current = harder to turn the alternator. Putting a load on an idling engine usually causes it to stall, kind of like letting out the clutch to fast. New battery = problem solved.
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Old 03-12-2008, 10:32 PM   #12
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Impressive. I did not know that. Thanks!!
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Old 03-13-2008, 08:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98LS-WON View Post
Here is what caused your problem, it's amazing how common this is in all cars. (Forgive me, i'm bored) Your battery was damn near dead so it was drawing a lot of current from the alternator. More current = harder to turn the alternator. Putting a load on an idling engine usually causes it to stall, kind of like letting out the clutch to fast. New battery = problem solved.
Wow, it's amazing what you can make up. That's pretty outrageous. It's simply a lack of voltage that causes the car to die, and has nothing to do with making the alternator harder to turn. An alternator doesn't work that way
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Old 03-13-2008, 09:29 AM   #14
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wow lol
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:48 PM   #15
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Wow, it's amazing what you can make up. That's pretty outrageous. It's simply a lack of voltage that causes the car to die, and has nothing to do with making the alternator harder to turn. An alternator doesn't work that way
An alteranator doesn't work thatt way? I guess is f-ing magic then.
Define - "lack of voltage" and how it existed if the alternator was working properly. Then explain how the car started in the first place? Why did it run while reving, but not at idle. If it was low voltage, wouldn't the ignition system draw more current at higher RPMs, thereby lowering the voltage even more. I mean, seriously, do you not understand that it takes either more RPMs withthe same current through the rotating windings or more current at the same RPM to increase the alternators output. More current = harder to turn. Ever heard EMF or Counter EMF. I won't tell you what it is, do some research and come back and talk to me afterwards. This lesson was free of charge.

BTW, the lack of voltage you are talking about.... it's caused by the alternator not being able to put out enopugh current at low RPMs. Kind of like when the battery is dead and is taking all of the current it can get, plus some. See EMF above.
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Old 03-20-2008, 09:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98LS-WON View Post
An alteranator doesn't work thatt way? I guess is f-ing magic then.
Define - "lack of voltage" and how it existed if the alternator was working properly. Then explain how the car started in the first place? Why did it run while reving, but not at idle. If it was low voltage, wouldn't the ignition system draw more current at higher RPMs, thereby lowering the voltage even more. I mean, seriously, do you not understand that it takes either more RPMs withthe same current through the rotating windings or more current at the same RPM to increase the alternators output. More current = harder to turn. Ever heard EMF or Counter EMF. I won't tell you what it is, do some research and come back and talk to me afterwards. This lesson was free of charge.
Wow LOL!! It's funny, but I fixed this problem and a new one started with the car overheating without the heat on. I cant win. She must be mad at me or something.
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:12 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98LS-WON View Post
An alteranator doesn't work thatt way? I guess is f-ing magic then.
Define - "lack of voltage" and how it existed if the alternator was working properly. Then explain how the car started in the first place? Why did it run while reving, but not at idle. If it was low voltage, wouldn't the ignition system draw more current at higher RPMs, thereby lowering the voltage even more. I mean, seriously, do you not understand that it takes either more RPMs withthe same current through the rotating windings or more current at the same RPM to increase the alternators output. More current = harder to turn. Ever heard EMF or Counter EMF. I won't tell you what it is, do some research and come back and talk to me afterwards. This lesson was free of charge.

BTW, the lack of voltage you are talking about.... it's caused by the alternator not being able to put out enopugh current at low RPMs. Kind of like when the battery is dead and is taking all of the current it can get, plus some. See EMF above.
Yu're right about low voltage causing a car to die, I said that. You're wrong that low voltage makes the alternator so hard to turn that the car stalls, that's incompetent. You need to take a lesson in how power is generated by an alternator if you really think that.
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:43 PM   #18
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Yu're right about low voltage causing a car to die, I said that. You're wrong that low voltage makes the alternator so hard to turn that the car stalls, that's incompetent. You need to take a lesson in how power is generated by an alternator if you really think that.
He said more current = harder to turn, not low voltage. In that sense he is right but I don't think that it is possible to draw that much from these alternators to stall out an LS1.

Whatever the reason, glad the first problem got fixed. The car overheats now without the heat on? Heat on wont' make the car overheat - unless you mean interior getting hot, not the engine.
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Old 03-20-2008, 10:48 PM   #19
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Whatever the reason, glad the first problem got fixed. The car overheats now without the heat on? Heat on wont' make the car overheat - unless you mean interior getting hot, not the engine.
No. If the heat is on the temp tays right below 210 but if I shut the heater off it begins overheating. Not as much if the car is moving but if Im at a light or something sitting at idle, bam the needle shoots up into the red. I turn the heat back on and it comes back down to normal.
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Old 03-20-2008, 11:00 PM   #20
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Oh ok I misunderstood. When you have the heat on you are turning your heater core into a little radiator basically. I would check your coolant level, make sure you don't have an airlock in your radiator or something else plugging it up.
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Old 03-20-2008, 11:00 PM
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