HELP!!!! My car wont stay running!! - LS1TECH

Log In 


General Maintenance & Repairs Leaks | Squeaks | Clunks | Rattles | Grinds

HELP!!!! My car wont stay running!!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-11-2008, 07:32 PM   #1
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default HELP!!!! My car wont stay running!!

It just started this like ten min ago. As long as I'm moving or reving it's fine but if I put the clutch in or come to a stop of any kind the volt meter starts to immediately drop ad the damn thing shuts off. Is it the alternator? That was my first guess but Im not sure. Someone please help!!!
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-11-2008, 08:52 PM   #2
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default

Anyone?
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 07:23 AM   #3
Teching In
 
TxDad-97SS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Frisco Tx
Posts: 18
Default

maybe IAC gone bad.
TxDad-97SS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 07:51 AM   #4
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
 
BillyDaKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Virginia Beach
Posts: 54
Default

Is the check engine light on?
BillyDaKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 09:18 AM   #5
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TxDad-97SS View Post
maybe IAC gone bad.
Sorry for the stupidity but what's the IAC?
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 09:19 AM   #6
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyDaKid View Post
Is the check engine light on?
Yep. It is.
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 09:34 AM   #7
LS1TECH & Trucks Sponsor
iTrader: (33)
 
Scoggin Dickey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Lubbock, TX
Posts: 3,456
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy01Z View Post
Yep. It is.
The first step is to find out what code it's stored
Scoggin Dickey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 09:34 AM   #8
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
 
BillyDaKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Virginia Beach
Posts: 54
Default

The IAC is the Idle Air Control valve. It control the flow of air at idle (don't mean to sound like an ***). If this goes bad, you engine will die every time you let off the gas. It's located on the TB. If you run the codes, it will tell you what has gone bad.
BillyDaKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 09:36 AM   #9
Staging Lane
iTrader: (2)
 
BillyDaKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Virginia Beach
Posts: 54
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scoggin Dickey View Post
The first step is to find out what code it's stored
+1...........
BillyDaKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 07:14 PM   #10
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default

I took it over to Advance Auto today and had them load test it. Turns out the alternator is fine but the battery was bad. Very wierd considering the battery is only like a year old but either way. I bought an Optima red top and porblem solved. Thanks for the help.
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 09:41 PM   #11
Launching!
 
98LS-WON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 273
Default

Here is what caused your problem, it's amazing how common this is in all cars. (Forgive me, i'm bored) Your battery was damn near dead so it was drawing a lot of current from the alternator. More current = harder to turn the alternator. Putting a load on an idling engine usually causes it to stall, kind of like letting out the clutch to fast. New battery = problem solved.
98LS-WON is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-12-2008, 10:32 PM   #12
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default

Impressive. I did not know that. Thanks!!
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2008, 08:50 AM   #13
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (26)
 
oneBADDz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Western Section
Posts: 573
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98LS-WON View Post
Here is what caused your problem, it's amazing how common this is in all cars. (Forgive me, i'm bored) Your battery was damn near dead so it was drawing a lot of current from the alternator. More current = harder to turn the alternator. Putting a load on an idling engine usually causes it to stall, kind of like letting out the clutch to fast. New battery = problem solved.
Wow, it's amazing what you can make up. That's pretty outrageous. It's simply a lack of voltage that causes the car to die, and has nothing to do with making the alternator harder to turn. An alternator doesn't work that way
oneBADDz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2008, 09:29 AM   #14
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (5)
 
Ponch95's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Heidelberg, Germany
Posts: 327
Default

wow lol
Ponch95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2008, 09:48 PM   #15
Launching!
 
98LS-WON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 273
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneBADDz View Post
Wow, it's amazing what you can make up. That's pretty outrageous. It's simply a lack of voltage that causes the car to die, and has nothing to do with making the alternator harder to turn. An alternator doesn't work that way
An alteranator doesn't work thatt way? I guess is f-ing magic then.
Define - "lack of voltage" and how it existed if the alternator was working properly. Then explain how the car started in the first place? Why did it run while reving, but not at idle. If it was low voltage, wouldn't the ignition system draw more current at higher RPMs, thereby lowering the voltage even more. I mean, seriously, do you not understand that it takes either more RPMs withthe same current through the rotating windings or more current at the same RPM to increase the alternators output. More current = harder to turn. Ever heard EMF or Counter EMF. I won't tell you what it is, do some research and come back and talk to me afterwards. This lesson was free of charge.

BTW, the lack of voltage you are talking about.... it's caused by the alternator not being able to put out enopugh current at low RPMs. Kind of like when the battery is dead and is taking all of the current it can get, plus some. See EMF above.

Last edited by 98LS-WON; 03-20-2008 at 09:55 PM.
98LS-WON is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2008, 09:54 PM   #16
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98LS-WON View Post
An alteranator doesn't work thatt way? I guess is f-ing magic then.
Define - "lack of voltage" and how it existed if the alternator was working properly. Then explain how the car started in the first place? Why did it run while reving, but not at idle. If it was low voltage, wouldn't the ignition system draw more current at higher RPMs, thereby lowering the voltage even more. I mean, seriously, do you not understand that it takes either more RPMs withthe same current through the rotating windings or more current at the same RPM to increase the alternators output. More current = harder to turn. Ever heard EMF or Counter EMF. I won't tell you what it is, do some research and come back and talk to me afterwards. This lesson was free of charge.
Wow LOL!! It's funny, but I fixed this problem and a new one started with the car overheating without the heat on. I cant win. She must be mad at me or something.
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2008, 10:12 PM   #17
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (26)
 
oneBADDz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Western Section
Posts: 573
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98LS-WON View Post
An alteranator doesn't work thatt way? I guess is f-ing magic then.
Define - "lack of voltage" and how it existed if the alternator was working properly. Then explain how the car started in the first place? Why did it run while reving, but not at idle. If it was low voltage, wouldn't the ignition system draw more current at higher RPMs, thereby lowering the voltage even more. I mean, seriously, do you not understand that it takes either more RPMs withthe same current through the rotating windings or more current at the same RPM to increase the alternators output. More current = harder to turn. Ever heard EMF or Counter EMF. I won't tell you what it is, do some research and come back and talk to me afterwards. This lesson was free of charge.

BTW, the lack of voltage you are talking about.... it's caused by the alternator not being able to put out enopugh current at low RPMs. Kind of like when the battery is dead and is taking all of the current it can get, plus some. See EMF above.
Yu're right about low voltage causing a car to die, I said that. You're wrong that low voltage makes the alternator so hard to turn that the car stalls, that's incompetent. You need to take a lesson in how power is generated by an alternator if you really think that.
oneBADDz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2008, 10:43 PM   #18
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
 
SparkyJJO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,009
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oneBADDz View Post
Yu're right about low voltage causing a car to die, I said that. You're wrong that low voltage makes the alternator so hard to turn that the car stalls, that's incompetent. You need to take a lesson in how power is generated by an alternator if you really think that.
He said more current = harder to turn, not low voltage. In that sense he is right but I don't think that it is possible to draw that much from these alternators to stall out an LS1.

Whatever the reason, glad the first problem got fixed. The car overheats now without the heat on? Heat on wont' make the car overheat - unless you mean interior getting hot, not the engine.
SparkyJJO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2008, 10:48 PM   #19
Launching!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (4)
 
Navy01Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beacon Falls, CT
Posts: 256
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO View Post
Whatever the reason, glad the first problem got fixed. The car overheats now without the heat on? Heat on wont' make the car overheat - unless you mean interior getting hot, not the engine.
No. If the heat is on the temp tays right below 210 but if I shut the heater off it begins overheating. Not as much if the car is moving but if Im at a light or something sitting at idle, bam the needle shoots up into the red. I turn the heat back on and it comes back down to normal.
Navy01Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2008, 11:00 PM   #20
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (11)
 
SparkyJJO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 7,009
Default

Oh ok I misunderstood. When you have the heat on you are turning your heater core into a little radiator basically. I would check your coolant level, make sure you don't have an airlock in your radiator or something else plugging it up.
SparkyJJO is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
alot, car, draw, ignition, running, stay, system, wont

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:09 PM.