Jason Novak

I am currently putting my steering column back together after installing a new clock spring. While trying to figure out how to squeeze that big fat connector through the column I pulled the plate over the tilt lever, and the little piece piece that goes between the tilt housing and high beam rod fell out, I have no idea how it goes back together. I have a service manual, but the picture isn't very good and I'm not sure what they mean by "the bottom edge of the dimmer switch rod actuator must rest on the bend in the dimmer switch rod". I've attached some pictures of how I think it's supposed to go together ... if that's right perhaps someone could point to where the rod is supposed to hit it? The whole thing doesn't make a lot of sense to me -- even if I just hold the little piece in the column so the stalk and hit it, it doesn't seem to actually reach and down on the rod. I'd appreciate any help ... my car is stuck until I get this fixed.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

Hmmm yea that happened to me a long time ago. I think you have it positioned right. Have you tried wiping the part and other area clean and then use something more waxy like ASM lube? Maybe that would help to stop it from moving around so much.

Jason Novak

It is a little precarious trying to keep the two pieces together while getting it into place, some thicker grease would help.

I don't think I'm getting it set up right with the rod ... it doesn't seem like the stalk is moving the actuator piece or that the piece won't just fall off it's guide.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

All I got out of it was something I already knew.

The bend in the rod and the extension of the actuator are what keeps the rod from moving too way inboard when being depressed resulting in the rod jumping out of the concave grove in the actuator.

It didn't help me any. Just keep some pressure between the rod and actuator when you go to place the plate up against the column. Get don't let the Steering Column Housing Cover push the Acuator around when you press it down over the Steering Column Housing Suport.

Sorry that isn't amazing helpful. It was a pain in the *** for me too.

Jason Novak

Thanks for the help ... I think I'm getting a good idea of how it goes together and works ... the rod fits into the little concave groove in the end of the actuator, as in the picture? Does seem like it's going to be a real pain to get together ... sucks that I pulled it off when I didn't need to.

Were you actually able to get the tilt cover on with the actuator in place? Or did you put the actuator into the column and put the cover on afterwards?

It seems pretty tricky the 1st way since you have to really flex the tilt cover and twist it around to get it in and around the turn signal stalk part in the column... maybe that comes out easily?

I had it mostly in place and then tried putting the acutator in place through the crack. Maybe I just need a ton of grease...

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

I was never able to get the tilt lever or turn signal stalk out.

I think I kept the actuator up against the plate and then fit the linkage up against it as the plate was close to the column. You should be able to depress the linkage to keep it out of the way and then let go and guide it into the grove.

Jason Novak

Thanks ... I'll give it a try tomorrow, hopefully there will be some breaks in the rain. I think I have a plan of attack now, just have to work at it

Jason Novak

Well, got it all put back together ... dimmer works. Unfortunately the air bag light is still on, still I'll have to keep playing with that. Thanks for the help

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

How many beers did it take? hehe.

So you replaced the coil with a new one?

Jason Novak

Yes, I replaced the coil ... I believe I did it right this time. The replacement still had the plastic guard, I just moved it slightly it over a notch on the back so both holes would line up, installed it, and when I snapped off the guard the arrows on the front were perfectly lined up. The guard on the front limited how much it would turn so I figured there wasn't much that needed to be set - you couldn't wind it all to one side and back with the guard in place. The one I broke when I turned the wheel the first time I think I could hear stuff breaking, this one was perfectly smooth. Here's a picture on the old one where I had the back lined up.

Jason Novak

I opened up my old clock spring just for the fun of it ... the long ribbon still seems to be intact, maybe it wasn't broken? Pretty simple inside for what they charge. Not sure what else I could have done... I have some obd2 software for my laptop, it wasn't showing any codes despite the light being on. Maybe I'll have to dig into that more.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

EFI Live will show codes from the ABS and Airbag module. You might try to get in touch with someone on the fourm that is local.

Best way to test the coil is with a multimeter set on cont mode. Of course, with the coil unplugged on both ends! New coils are something like 100 bucks or 120 bucks. But yes alot for a couple of rollers and printed ribbon!

You should of swapped over for a wheel control coil and added on a 2002 wheel

Hope you get it fixed anyways.

Jason Novak

I double-checked my old one and it does appear to be good on the meter, so it probably didn't need to be replaced ... at least I only paid $30 for the new one from eBay. I can't think of anything else I could have done in the steering column that would have caused this since it was fine before I changed the turn signal springs, I'm starting to think it's not related to the clock spring. I'll probably mess around with it for a few days and then take it in somewhere ... at least now it's all back together and drivable - thanks for that - minus the air bags. I'm using scanner software I got a couple of years ago from a group buy on this board ... http://obd-2.com/ ... it may not support air bags.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

Assuming the car was wrecked but the coil was still working it might not be a bad idea to replace it anyways because the airbag would get so hot it could melt the coil's wires. They may not be trustable. You can tell if a coil has been in an accident for sure...

If you haven't wrecked then you might look for a corroded wire/terminal. Aside from that I would be stumped without that trouble code. The airbag system is very sensitive to resistance.

If you get bored here is the airbag PDF. Pretty informational.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1192338016
You must change the file extension back to .pdf from .efi. I had to do this to upload the file due to size.

Jason Novak

I believe it was a new part, it was in a GM box and still had the little plastic lock guard think on it that you snap off once it's installed ... probably should have tested it though on a meter first to be sure. I send an email to the obdc software guy to see if I'm just not looking in the right place for the codes. Thanks for the document, I'll look it over.

rpmauto

iTrader: (14)

i dont know for sure on the f-bodys, but on newer stuff you have to get it reprogramed to the body control module, at if you replace the sensor on the tranny hump

Jason Novak

I saw some parts do seem to need to sync up, like new guages, but the clock spring is more mechanical.

Speaking of that, looking inside on one and seeing the tape, it appears unless you have it mis-aligned and crank your wheel, ripping the tape, before the air bag is disabled? In all other cases it should work? ie even if you were slightly off (I haven't turned my wheel more than 45 degrees each way). There's no way taking it off and readjusting it would fix it, assuming the tape is still intact?

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

I think the CWS should rotate a little more than 3 turns either way if it is centered correctly. It should be impossible to break unless you have the shaft out. Otherwise those spotwelds just can't hold the forces. I tried to solder one back together just to see if it would work and it broke in minutes. They just are not repairable!

As for reprogramming sometimes you can get away with it by forcing a relearn. I was able to change IP clusters by cycling the car on and off. On for 30 min. Off for 30. Kept doing that 4 or 5 times. I didn't believe it could work but eventually the IP cluster started to respond and the security light went off!

I might of had to pull a fuse. i dont remember what the guy told me.

Jason Novak

I'm going to take it in tomorrow and get it checked out. I thought I had broken the first clock spring... I didn't really understand how they work and didn't really line it up, and that's the first thing everyone said it wrong when the light comes on in this situation so it seemed pretty common, but a meter test shows it's still making a circuit, and I know the second one was in right since it had the locking tab that didn't really let you move the center ring more than an inch or two in each direction, so it appears it comes pre-centered, ie 2.5 turns in, you just line up the arrows on the front.

I looked to see if I unplugged something further down the way, but it looks like the clock spring goes into a connector under the dash and then basically into a big fat harness. No idea what I could have done in the wheel that would have caused this if it wasn't the clock spring ... I just hope this doesn't end up costing me a ton more than if I'd just taken it in to get the signal fixed in the first place ... it was a good learning experience at least

Jason Novak

Well, I got back from the dealer with the diagnosis ... it had codes dtc b1024 and b1071, "driver deployment loop short to ground". The guy gave me a printout the diagnostics he was following from gm's site. He got to the point where he was testing DRIVER SENSELO, both bags showed like 4v, about the 3.3v minimum, so the end result is a new SDM ... a $320 part. Second opinions anyone? The only thing I think I could have shorted was the original clock spring, and in all my searches I've never seen anyone say it took out the SDM from a mis-aligned clock spring.