HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok, so my A/C system has a leak somewhere. I took it to Pep Boys today to have them diagnose it. They said it was going to be $640 total. It only needs an A/C Manifold Line, and GM Orifice tube. For the manifold line its got a part number that looks like GM: 10224904, but I can't find anything with this part #.

I figured I'd pull these off of a good condition used car, buy from a part-out, or buy from GMPartsDirect. But, I'm not exactly sure what these pieces look like and what part to look for on GMPartsDirect.

1) Can anyone supply me with the part numbers for these?
2) On ebay they have a lot of several orifice tubes for GM cars. Are they universal or proprietary? I think it says "Dryer orifice tube"
3) The Manifold Line is "from the compressor to the dryer" and on a GM parts catalog site I see: Accumulator to evaporator, Condenser to dehydrator, Condenser to evaporator, and dehydrator to evaporator. Would it be the condensor to dehydrator?

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

an orfice tube will look like a small plastic piece with crossthatched rings around it, it will go into one of the lines...sorry i dont have part numbers

needadvice

never heard of a manifold line.

Go here for pricing, sometimes there real good.

http://www.rockauto.com/

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

So pep boys can't get the parts or what?
I have a feeling you want to R&R the **** and add 'that stuff that makes it get cold' and you're good to go, right?

Wrong.

The orifice tube has absolutley NOTHING to do with a leak. But FYI it's a $6 part and they are color coded. Just stop running in circles to save a dime buying the wrong stuff on ebay and go to a parts store. The LS1 cars take the black (and gray) O tube.

The manifold line I'm guessing you're talking about the one that goes on the compressor, it has both rubber hoses connected to it. Thats $110 at autozone, someone here said they picked one up from the local dealer for less than that.


Then you should flush the system so you can refill it with the proper amount of pag 150 oil (9 oz)
Replace the parts including all o rings/sealing rings.
Replace the accumulator/dryer/reciever whatever you have I just noticed you have a '97 so that well nevermind I thought I was on LS1TECH.

The dryer gets changed everytime the system is opened.

When all the parts are on, leak check, put it on a vacuum pump, you need a manifold gauge set. Weigh in the proper amount of refrigerant.

If you buy the right parts, you have to have the right tools to pull a vacuum and charge the system. So since it looks like you're hunting for the most inexpensive stuff, and since you had to take it to pep boys to figure out it had a leak I have a feeling you don't have the right tools and don't know how to do this job properly.

I'm trying to talk you out of wasting your money so don't get all pissed at me.
Let a qualified shop do the job.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I'm not paying them $640 when it can be done for less. I've got the refrigerant, gauges, and tools that I need. I just need to replace the leaking hoses. I've found a hose kit for $77 new from GMPartsDirect, $45 at my local f-body parts junkyard used. PB wants like $200 to order the part. $200 to fill the ****, $200 to install the hose, and $75 to diagnose my check engine light which I don't need done right now.

I'm not "running in circles" on ebay, it was just something I looked up really quick. i'm researching trying to find the exact parts I need and will probably buy them new, hence why I posted here and why I asked for part numbers. I took it to them to tell me what parts I needed to have replaced, and I planned on doing the work myself, or with the help of a family friend who has done AC work in the past.

Please feel free to make LESS assumptions. But thanks for the information.

1sick'98WS6

iTrader: (19)

I had a guy who was recharging my AC tell me that I needed a new manifold, I asked him to show me the manifold and where it was leaking and he said it could not be seen because it was like a pin hole. It did not need to be replaced and I told him to put the new o ring on the back of it and charge it. No problems, still blowing ice cold over a year later. Dont let him take you for a ride cause i dont really see how those things can break or go bad.

Mart00SS

iTrader: (19)

Hmmm, my 95' had an H-block and not an orifice tube, not sure what your 97 has. Could be either, unless they changed the design between those years.

fuseone

yea 640 for that is crazy for just what they say needs to be replaced.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Ok so you have the tools and can do the job right. Why do you need to take it to a **** hack place like pep boys for a diagnostic?
It's not assumption it's a fact that if you can repair what you said is wrong, you should be able to diagnose it as well.

I know I always make these stupid little analogies, but if you have a light bulb stop working at your house do you pay an electrician to come diagnose that so you can replace it when he leaves?

It doesn't make sense to me. So I'll leave you alone. I just hope you post back saying you got it fixed right with no problems.

ls1slow

iTrader: (1)

hey dude i think that is the line is the one that goes form the can to the condorsor and i just bouht it today and it 80 bucks

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

What I will probably do is just replace the bad lines myself, and o-rings, and then fill it up as much as I can to check for leaks. If no leaks and still no cold air, then I will have them fill it and vacuum test it.

GMRL

The proper way to recharge the AC is to pump vacuum into the system for about 15 minutes, that way itll remove any left over refrigerant and oil in the system. This will also remove any moisture, any water in the system will totaly screw with it. Also those gauges they sell at parts stores arent that great, the proper way to add refrigerant to the system is to measure by lbs, not PSI. An LT1 Fbody takes 2 lbs of refrigerant. I just recharged my system on our AC machine at the shop I work at. Also the best way to check for leaks is to add UV dye into the system, that way if there is a leak it will be easily spotted by shining a UV light at the lines.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

I can't believe you work at a shop and you're telling this guy he needs to PUMP A VACUUM INTO THE SYSTEM!
It doesn't even make sense. PUMP up a tire adds air. How do you pump vacuum?
Holy ****.
Lets make this very very basic and easy to understand. When you use a vacuum cleaner to clean your car it sucks stuff out right, it doesn't blow **** in the car. Vacuum is suction.
And another holy ******* **** is....if theres water in the system 15 minutes on the vacuum pump isn't going to do ****.

GMRL

When the machine pumps air out of the system, it creates a vacuum. Is that hard to understand? Pumping out. Vacuum. Does that make sense?!!?!
It PUMPS air OUT, which in turn creates a VACUUM.
Holy ****
Call it what you want dude, it all means the same thing.
When you use a vacuum cleaner to clean you car, it SUCKS stuff out right?
It doesnt remove the atmosphere from the car does it?
If there is water in the system theres bigger problems there.
By creating a vacuum in the system any mositure will boil away, thats one of the reasons this step is important.
Again...HOLY ****!!!!

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Or we could use the right terminology and say evacuate the system don't you agree?

I usually don't because a lot of people, even A/C guys think evacuating the system is the process of removing the refrigerant. People mix the two up, evacuation vs recovery/reclaim/recycle.

I see your point and your right but if you know a/c and you're giving advice to someone who might not know as much as you it's more effective to use the right words because those who don't know get confused.

95maroz28

iTrader: (21)

You might be able to find a good used a/c compressor line on ebay for cheap ..picked one up 35$ shipped. put the hose on myself and took maybe 1.5 hours

Dimitri-

iTrader: (10)

Your first problem was going to PepBoys.
edit: Nice avatar, soilwork is the shiz.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Thanks..

Ok when I was changing my oil today I had someone help me out. I found the leak. It's in the rubber hose that connects the condensor to the compressor under the motor. it's only like 2ft long. It's circled in red. It's got 2 hoses connected to it on this diagram. Are those 2 hoses connected by that 1 piece on the compressor?

1996firebirdformula

iTrader: (3)

Take out T-Tops

VetteMan

Pep Boys is the worst ******* place. Full of dumb........