michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

Well i just put my SLP underdrive pulley today. took me about... oh.. 5 hours! I decided not to purchase the optional, longer crank bolt because I heard a few guys say they didnt need it. But i have know idea how they did it with out the bolt. Some threads here, AND ls1howto.com said the stock bolt is just long enough. well mine was not even close. On top of that NO hardware store or auto parts store had a bolt that was the same thread. So most of the 5 hours was spent driving around in my buddies car looking for... something.
Basically I just wanted to post this thread for anyone who is considering installing a pulley. YOU WILL DEFINITELY WANT THE LONGER INSTALLATION BOLT OR A PULLEY INSTALL "TOOL".
Ill probably post a picture or two tomorrow.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

how hard do you think it would have been if you had the bolt to begin with? all you need is a puller and a longer belt right?

themack56

iTrader: (70)

u didnt do enough research into ur install, i did mine in 30 mins, its the easiest thing in the world, but u have to have the pulley puller and the install tool the hawk sells on here, dont ever ever ever ever use a longer bolt, u run the risk of stripping the threads in the crank

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

using a longer bolt did sound strange. seemed like it would go in too far when it was fully tightened. what install tool do you need?

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

The longer bolt is used as an "installation tool" and that is it. Use a bunch of washers and a longer bolt to help push the pulley into place (you want a longer bolt so that you can catch more threads when the pulley is being pulled onto the snout to reduce the risk of stripping threads), then use your old stock length bolt and torque 240ft-lbs then new stock length bolt to do the 35ft-lbs and 140* tighten (or something like that). I just paid a performance shop $80 to install my SummitRacing UD pulley since I didn't want to go through the hassle but if I did it myself I would have definitely bought the hawk installation tool (do a search) instead of messing around with a longer bolt.

F8L_LS1

iTrader: (5)

if you dont mind me asking... which shop? im looking for a good shop to do the same install since we are both in the bay area.
you can pm me if you want.

thanks

Swift_01_z-28

iTrader: (1)

Question, is the underdrive pulley worth the money? And it makes the car able to put more power to ground right? I'm still pretty noob at the pulley thing. Sorry, didn't mean to steal your post.

16floz470ml

iTrader: (2)

So how did you end up putting it on? Tell the truth.

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

haha well after running around to several auto parts stores i FINALLY found a bolt that was the right thread and about a 1/2" longer. found it at some hole in the wall store that i never go to. go figure.
And for those who say not to use a longer bolt because of the risk of stripping threads. Well i did not use this longer bolt that i found to do ANY kind of torqueing. I used the stock bolt as long as i could to ull the pulley. but once it got to about 1 turn into the crank, I figured, thats just not enough to pull this pulley off. I then used the 1/2" longer bolt to pull the pulley the rest of the way off.
Upon install, i set the pulley onto the crank, used the longer bolt to START pressing the pulley on. Once the pulley was on a little, i switched back to the stock crank bolt and then torqued that down to 240 ft.lbs.
In my case, I ran more of a risk stripping threads with the stock bolt than i did with the longer bolt.

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

Oh, and IMO, the pulley was not worth the money at all

Bouvs

iTrader: (12)

probably not you won't see a whole lot of response other then faster throttle response. Thats why most guys don't do it as a seperate mod but just a "might as well do it at the same time" mod when they do heads/cam

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Thank God I finally heard someone say this, I almost bought the ASP pulley and belts last week but cancelled the order last minute, would've been almost $300 after parts/ delivery.

MasterV8

iTrader: (7)

I found to get my pulley off! instead of using a longer bolt, was to get a small bolt that fit through the hole in the pulley and into the crank snout!
If someone just made a small metal bung to sit in/on the end of the snout, you wouldn't have to worry about stripping threads or hitting up against the radiator.

vjo90rs8

iTrader: (9)

We are not saying that you have more risk of stripping threads with a longer bolt when compared to the stock bolt. Obviously the longer bolt will reduce that risk, but there will still be some risk that some people don't want to take, that is why we recommend the hawk installation tool.
when pushing the pulley onto the snout the...
stock bolt=very high risk
longer bolt=moderate risk
install tool=very low risk

also, the pulley is a "every little bit counts" mod, just like a lid, ported TB, Ram Air, UDP, catback, etc. those mods individually will not give you a big seat of the pants feel but doing them all together should make a noticeable difference.
I did notice a small difference in throttle response after having it installed.

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

I understand that a pulley was never supposed to be a big difference. I do notice quicker throttle response. And yes i do agree that everybit counts. certainly if youre doing a heads/cam install, you might as well install a underdrive since you have to take the pulley off anyway.
But oh well, i bought the pulley a few months ago, thought itd be cool to get.

Mart00SS

iTrader: (19)

/\ x2
This man is wise!

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

little comparison:

HMERacing

You are measuring the belt retention wall on both pulleys. Keep in mind the SLP/Powerbond pulley has a higher wall the keep from throwing the belt.
I bought an SLP for the WS6, but I had an ASP on the 98 SS and you could tell a difference. May be the combination of Yank converter, gears, ect??? But you could tell a difference.

16floz470ml

iTrader: (2)

I really like my pulley and am glad that I got it. Prior to putting it on I had a new stock balancer that I had balanced at a machine shop. With the powerbond the engine runs smoother. There is a lot less load on the engine at idle. The engine accessory drive is quieter because of this. It also makes tuning the idle on a big cam easier and allows you to idle at a lower rpm.

For a puller I have the bluepoint 3 jaw made for these type pulleys. It works perfect and is durable. For the installer I have a longer high grade bolt, a washer, and a bearing. Works great too.

michaelg589

iTrader: (1)

yes i realize that. the retention walls on the SLP pulley are probably about an 1/8" taller if not more. so the pulley is probably another 1/4" smaller than what it reads.