WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

So, I have issues with my car running too cool in the winter time since the EWP install. When cruising down the road the car is running around 140-150ºF.

I was thinking about one of these solutions:

1) Keep the 180ºF stat in the car and reduce the size the the bypass holes

2) Get a 195ºF stat and also go with slightly smaller bypass holes.

Does anyone have a schematic of the cooling system? I am curious to see what downfalls there are of making these holes smaller (for the motor or EWP).

Also, I get confused with the t-stats we run at machines on work, but does a 180ºF stat start to open at 180ºF or is it fully stroked at 180ºF? If it only starts to open at 180ºF (which is what I thought was the case) I believe I will go with option #1 once I verify all the purposes of the bypass. I thought I may be able to go with some small holes but want to be sure.

Thanks

teke184

iTrader: (5)

seems really odd.

i can't imagine those small bypass holes flowing enough coolant to keep the engine 25-35* cooler than typical 160* stats flow.

i know my car runs a solid 175* prior to the EWP setup, with the cooling fans on HIGH, now i realize that was in ~70* weather, but it couldn't flow enough air to cool it down below that.

i would guess just go with the stock stat and smaller holes, see what happens.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

That is what I am going to try out. The general use that we use them for on air compressors is to prevent large spikes or temp swings when the stat opens. I am going to put some holes in a 195F, but about half the size and see what it does. Now I am only talking about while I am moving down the road and it is 30-40F outside. The car will come up to temp when it is sitting still. I guess it could be possible that thermostat is cracking too early.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

block half the radiator with cardboard. Kind of kidding, but it will work.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

Yeah, the only issue I would have with having some blockage is it may not provide enough cooling if it were to get hotter in the afternoon or while idling. Hopefully changing the tstat will allow it to get to temp and stay there lol

teke184

iTrader: (5)

"Hopefully changing the tstat will allow it to get to temp and stay there lol"

that's gonna be the trick. keeping it there.

i mean if the temps are held at 150* with a 160* stat, than the bypass holes are giving enough flow to cool the engine with the stat CLOSED.

so having a stat that opens hotter isn't gonna help, cause its still gonna be closed.

not sure if it would give enough residual heat in the block to keep the temps up or not.

definatly worth a try, and combined with smaller bypass holes you should be able to overcome the over-cooling.

i'm sure there are alot of guys that wish they had your problem

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I had the exact same problem when I first installed mine...my baypass holes were WAY too big, and I was running 140-150* in 50* ambient air just cruising around. Bought a new thermostat, didn't make the holes as large (but I don't remember their exact size), and that solved the problem completely.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I drill 1/16" or 3/32" holes in my thermostats just
for a bubble-bleed. I never see below freezing
though.

Maybe it's the heater that is cooling you down.
That is un-orificed flow and if you're blasting the
defrost, maybe enough to keep it cooled. Used
to hear advice about if you're overheating, run
the heater full blast (in summer, yeah).

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

I don't run the heat in the car in the morning for that reason.

My thought on the 195 stat was that maybe the 180 is cracking open early causing the issue. I will just drill a small hole in a new 180 and throw it in there.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I'm pretty sure the second time around I only drilled one hole in my thermostat...the two holes at the sizes recommended by Meziere were WAY too big.

As for the heater cooling down a car, it worked in my buddy's 96 LT1 Vette...we got the car from about 230* down to 200*-ish, but it took a while, and the interior was a bit...hot.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

That is what I do at the track to cool the car if I am waiting to run again, turn the heat on full blast with the car off but keep the EWP running.

gectek

iTrader: (2)

^^^just make sure its on heat (floor/panel) and not defrost, because (if you still have a working AC) when you turn it off then run fill boogie down the track, or even leave it on, the evaporator will shed the water on the track. ive seen people kicked out for repeatedly doing that.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

I know

Plus, I have no AC anyway.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

Well I drilled one single 1/8" hole and placed it towards the top. Went out for a ride after running the car for a few minutes and the car came up to temp much faster. It is 62 deg out now so the real test will be when I drive it to work some time this week in the morning. Hopefully all is well now. It still moves a considerable amount of coolant through the system even with that small hole.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I'm surprised there's so many problems with cars running too cool in the cold climates.

Is this like a big problem with all types of cars?

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

Nah, my DD and just about any other car I drive seem fine, although it does run a little cooler in the winter time. The stock bypass hole is much smaller than what is recommended for the EWP. The only issue is while driving with all that airflow across the radiator.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

So blocking half of the condensor with a piece of card board would actually solve the problem. And you wouldn't run hot when it warmed up because its not like its gonna get 90* out, right?

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

Nah it wouldn't, the car will get hot at idle. With the new t-stat in the now it will still function as normal. It would overheat, without a doubt, in the summer time. It easily gets to the upper 90's and lower 100's with high humidity (the higher the humidity the poorer the efficiency of heat removal).

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I just meant during these cold months to use the blocker.

WS6FirebirdTA00

iTrader: (33)

Yeah, it still will get hot. At idle my fans need to come on and stay on to keep the temps around 180, it is just the extra airflow from driving down the road (across the radiator and the motor).