Cold air/ ram air opinons requested
#1
Cold air/ ram air opinons requested
Ok, so in my car I have a cone filter type setup. I was planning on doing a type of cold/ram air by running the intake ducting 90 degrees down towards the bottom of the car. It will be somewhat easy to do, but cost money and not look as clean and uncluttered to me.
The thing is, after comparing my IAT temps today with my current setup to my friend's 92 lt1 swap camaro with a great stealth ram air setup...the IATs were the same temp. It was 49 degrees outside, and both our cars were reading air of 61-65 degrees on the highway.
So scratch getting any benefit from cooler air...I'm doing ok on that.
Will having just a cone filter down in an area where air at highway speeds will be just passing over it likely help anything? Because I have my doubts about it helping any without my finding a way to surround it with some type of box or scoop, and even then am unsure if there would be much difference.
Option 2 would be to keep the filter up where its at but put it in a sealed box of some sort and run ducting down below the car, if there would be much chance of getting anything from it.
Here's the current setup:
The thing is, after comparing my IAT temps today with my current setup to my friend's 92 lt1 swap camaro with a great stealth ram air setup...the IATs were the same temp. It was 49 degrees outside, and both our cars were reading air of 61-65 degrees on the highway.
So scratch getting any benefit from cooler air...I'm doing ok on that.
Will having just a cone filter down in an area where air at highway speeds will be just passing over it likely help anything? Because I have my doubts about it helping any without my finding a way to surround it with some type of box or scoop, and even then am unsure if there would be much difference.
Option 2 would be to keep the filter up where its at but put it in a sealed box of some sort and run ducting down below the car, if there would be much chance of getting anything from it.
Here's the current setup:
#2
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Not so helpful in what youre looking for kev, but look through this thread. It may not lower your IAT, but this is pretty interesting as long as its actually forcing air in your making more power. https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...ng-around.htmlhttps://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-...ng-around.html
#3
well today I picked up a piece of drier vent (like for a washer drier in your house) since it was 4" and flexible
clamped in to the MAF and ran the other end under the front bumper and went for a drive...by the time I was down my long as driveway the IAT were down to 45 degrees (its 40 outside), drove up to 50mph and they cooled to 42...so looks like I was wrong earlier about the cooler air not helping much
my MAF grams/sec of airflow didn't really change though, but I found the air ducting had tore around the MAF end, so I'm gonna duct tape that up and see if it works sealed...if so I might just buy some more permanent parts
clamped in to the MAF and ran the other end under the front bumper and went for a drive...by the time I was down my long as driveway the IAT were down to 45 degrees (its 40 outside), drove up to 50mph and they cooled to 42...so looks like I was wrong earlier about the cooler air not helping much
my MAF grams/sec of airflow didn't really change though, but I found the air ducting had tore around the MAF end, so I'm gonna duct tape that up and see if it works sealed...if so I might just buy some more permanent parts
#4
well today I picked up a piece of drier vent (like for a washer drier in your house) since it was 4" and flexible
clamped in to the MAF and ran the other end under the front bumper and went for a drive...by the time I was down my long as driveway the IAT were down to 45 degrees (its 40 outside), drove up to 50mph and they cooled to 42...so looks like I was wrong earlier about the cooler air not helping much
my MAF grams/sec of airflow didn't really change though, but I found the air ducting had tore around the MAF end, so I'm gonna duct tape that up and see if it works sealed...if so I might just buy some more permanent parts
clamped in to the MAF and ran the other end under the front bumper and went for a drive...by the time I was down my long as driveway the IAT were down to 45 degrees (its 40 outside), drove up to 50mph and they cooled to 42...so looks like I was wrong earlier about the cooler air not helping much
my MAF grams/sec of airflow didn't really change though, but I found the air ducting had tore around the MAF end, so I'm gonna duct tape that up and see if it works sealed...if so I might just buy some more permanent parts
#5
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I went from the the FIPK to the FTRA and 85mm Lid setup. My IAT decreased substantially during the summer....couldn't tell you under colder conditions as the car is in the garage until spring.
#6
well, so many people are claiming track time gains of .1-.3 or more so I thought it was worth a shot
as far as MAF air readings, they're the same with or without ram air, and with or without a decent filter (actually higher WITH a good filter than no filter at all), no matter what I do I get peak air flow on a 2-1 downshift right before it shifts back to 2nd and that reading is 299 grams/sec
but it does look like IATs are 15-20 degrees cooler under most conditions, and they cool down quickly at any speed
EDIT: MAP was requested, at WOT I was getting 29" hg with the ram air during a 2nd gear WOT pull
NOTE: these are results for my car, notice...unlike an Fbody my filter doesn't sit on top of the radiator, and it has a 90 degree bend between MAF and TB...on a fbody this is a straight shot so a sealed ram air setup MIGHT be worth some airflow there...
other things I question:
1) if I would see more results with open cutouts (its too cold for me to want to crawl under there and open them up...plus WOT with open headers attracts A LOT of attention)
2) my cam is a reverse split 230/224, could already be maximizing intake flow versus exhaust flow, perhaps a standard or normal split cam would benefit more
3) my engine is already being choked with a ls1 intake
so there's what I've got...overall, I'm glad I only have $6 invested at this point, I'll keep the tube and try again when I go to the track (track times and open headers) and/or get ls6 intake
feel free to discuss or share opinions and facts/ readings/ data...that's all I'm doing, scratching that curiosity itch
as far as MAF air readings, they're the same with or without ram air, and with or without a decent filter (actually higher WITH a good filter than no filter at all), no matter what I do I get peak air flow on a 2-1 downshift right before it shifts back to 2nd and that reading is 299 grams/sec
but it does look like IATs are 15-20 degrees cooler under most conditions, and they cool down quickly at any speed
EDIT: MAP was requested, at WOT I was getting 29" hg with the ram air during a 2nd gear WOT pull
NOTE: these are results for my car, notice...unlike an Fbody my filter doesn't sit on top of the radiator, and it has a 90 degree bend between MAF and TB...on a fbody this is a straight shot so a sealed ram air setup MIGHT be worth some airflow there...
other things I question:
1) if I would see more results with open cutouts (its too cold for me to want to crawl under there and open them up...plus WOT with open headers attracts A LOT of attention)
2) my cam is a reverse split 230/224, could already be maximizing intake flow versus exhaust flow, perhaps a standard or normal split cam would benefit more
3) my engine is already being choked with a ls1 intake
so there's what I've got...overall, I'm glad I only have $6 invested at this point, I'll keep the tube and try again when I go to the track (track times and open headers) and/or get ls6 intake
feel free to discuss or share opinions and facts/ readings/ data...that's all I'm doing, scratching that curiosity itch
#7
well, so many people are claiming track time gains of .1-.3 or more so I thought it was worth a shot
as far as MAF air readings, they're the same with or without ram air, and with or without a decent filter (actually higher WITH a good filter than no filter at all), no matter what I do I get peak air flow on a 2-1 downshift right before it shifts back to 2nd and that reading is 299 grams/sec
but it does look like IATs are 15-20 degrees cooler under most conditions, and they cool down quickly at any speed
EDIT: MAP was requested, at WOT I was getting 29" hg with the ram air during a 2nd gear WOT pull
NOTE: these are results for my car, notice...unlike an Fbody my filter doesn't sit on top of the radiator, and it has a 90 degree bend between MAF and TB...on a fbody this is a straight shot so a sealed ram air setup MIGHT be worth some airflow there...
other things I question:
1) if I would see more results with open cutouts (its too cold for me to want to crawl under there and open them up...plus WOT with open headers attracts A LOT of attention)
2) my cam is a reverse split 230/224, could already be maximizing intake flow versus exhaust flow, perhaps a standard or normal split cam would benefit more
3) my engine is already being choked with a ls1 intake
so there's what I've got...overall, I'm glad I only have $6 invested at this point, I'll keep the tube and try again when I go to the track (track times and open headers) and/or get ls6 intake
feel free to discuss or share opinions and facts/ readings/ data...that's all I'm doing, scratching that curiosity itch
as far as MAF air readings, they're the same with or without ram air, and with or without a decent filter (actually higher WITH a good filter than no filter at all), no matter what I do I get peak air flow on a 2-1 downshift right before it shifts back to 2nd and that reading is 299 grams/sec
but it does look like IATs are 15-20 degrees cooler under most conditions, and they cool down quickly at any speed
EDIT: MAP was requested, at WOT I was getting 29" hg with the ram air during a 2nd gear WOT pull
NOTE: these are results for my car, notice...unlike an Fbody my filter doesn't sit on top of the radiator, and it has a 90 degree bend between MAF and TB...on a fbody this is a straight shot so a sealed ram air setup MIGHT be worth some airflow there...
other things I question:
1) if I would see more results with open cutouts (its too cold for me to want to crawl under there and open them up...plus WOT with open headers attracts A LOT of attention)
2) my cam is a reverse split 230/224, could already be maximizing intake flow versus exhaust flow, perhaps a standard or normal split cam would benefit more
3) my engine is already being choked with a ls1 intake
so there's what I've got...overall, I'm glad I only have $6 invested at this point, I'll keep the tube and try again when I go to the track (track times and open headers) and/or get ls6 intake
feel free to discuss or share opinions and facts/ readings/ data...that's all I'm doing, scratching that curiosity itch
Well I think its funny you're starting to dabble into this the same time I am. I tried this same thing earlier in the summer (made my own FTRA) but I never installed it, didn't feel like blocking up the radiator when it was hot out.
Interestingly enough, I have this new aeroforce interceptor gauge, and it tells me IAT temp, actual car temp, and MAP. So I'm trying to look up other results of people in those 3 categories with what they get with ram air.
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#8
Well I think its funny you're starting to dabble into this the same time I am. I tried this same thing earlier in the summer (made my own FTRA) but I never installed it, didn't feel like blocking up the radiator when it was hot out.
Interestingly enough, I have this new aeroforce interceptor gauge, and it tells me IAT temp, actual car temp, and MAP. So I'm trying to look up other results of people in those 3 categories with what they get with ram air.
Interestingly enough, I have this new aeroforce interceptor gauge, and it tells me IAT temp, actual car temp, and MAP. So I'm trying to look up other results of people in those 3 categories with what they get with ram air.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...sults-tom.html
post 23 for cliff notes