View Poll Results: How did you handle the coolant lines during your swap?
Kept stock LS1 lines and ground the bottom of LS6 manifold
28
52.83%
Used LS6 Crossover for front and plugged the rear
23
43.40%
Used Crossover for both front and rear and connected the two
2
3.77%
Voters: 53. You may not vote on this poll
On the LS1 to LS6 Intake swap topic...
01-13-2009, 01:46 PM
#1
On the LS1 to LS6 Intake swap topic... I've searched and done some research and was kind of left scratching my head. Seems like everyone is doing something different. Of the options you're faced with that I've found you can:
1. Get the LS6 style crossover tube for the front and plug off the rear holes,
2. Use the stock LS1 coolant line(steam tubes) and grind on the bottom of the LS6 intake to accomodate
3. Use two LS6 style crossovers and route the rear line to meet the front at a T where it joins the other line and then to the radiator.
How did you do it? Please vote on your preferred method.
In any of these cases it appeared, through my research, that it didn't matter whether the foam on the bottom side of the intake was there or not.
Also when doing this one is also faced with whether or not they want to replace the gaskets or not. So, I'll start another thread, also including a poll, so for all those that have swapped let me know on the other thread whether you swapped the gaskets or not. Thanks in advance.
1. Get the LS6 style crossover tube for the front and plug off the rear holes,
2. Use the stock LS1 coolant line(steam tubes) and grind on the bottom of the LS6 intake to accomodate
3. Use two LS6 style crossovers and route the rear line to meet the front at a T where it joins the other line and then to the radiator.
How did you do it? Please vote on your preferred method.
In any of these cases it appeared, through my research, that it didn't matter whether the foam on the bottom side of the intake was there or not.
Also when doing this one is also faced with whether or not they want to replace the gaskets or not. So, I'll start another thread, also including a poll, so for all those that have swapped let me know on the other thread whether you swapped the gaskets or not. Thanks in advance.
01-13-2009, 03:19 PM
#4
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If you want to take care of any potential issues. Go route #2 and definitely with new gaskets if you're using a used intake & purchase an oil pressure sending unit ahead of time. Yes it costs some extra money but then you have your basics covered, and should you have issues afterward's.
01-13-2009, 06:25 PM
#5
I ground the ribs off the bottom of my intake and it's perfectly fine. Mine came with new gaskets...so yes I did use them.
The way I saw it...the coolant system works absolutely fine now, and you can't see anything below the intake anyways, so what would some grinding matter. My car is NA and I am not concerned about the manifold being weaker or anything like that...save your money and just grind it for clearance for the stock tubes.
As for the oil pressure sender...just be careful. I reached behind the manifold and unplugged the harness from the sender, and when I tugged the manifold out, I had a hand behind it helping guide the brake booster hose though...I never even wound up putting and stress on the sender, and I didn't even have anyone helping me...only took me a few hours from when I parked the car to when I had the LS6 intake back on with it idling making sure there were no vacuum lines missed. If you're careful you won't need to replace that sender.
The way I saw it...the coolant system works absolutely fine now, and you can't see anything below the intake anyways, so what would some grinding matter. My car is NA and I am not concerned about the manifold being weaker or anything like that...save your money and just grind it for clearance for the stock tubes.
As for the oil pressure sender...just be careful. I reached behind the manifold and unplugged the harness from the sender, and when I tugged the manifold out, I had a hand behind it helping guide the brake booster hose though...I never even wound up putting and stress on the sender, and I didn't even have anyone helping me...only took me a few hours from when I parked the car to when I had the LS6 intake back on with it idling making sure there were no vacuum lines missed. If you're careful you won't need to replace that sender.
01-13-2009, 07:11 PM
#7
Just get the LS6 style coolant lines.
I kept with the LS1 style and ground down my LS6 intake, and it seemed to fit, but I ended up with a vacuum leak later on. You could see where the lines were still contacting the bottom of the intake, even with the ribs completely ground off so the bottom of the intake was flat. So I replaced the LS1 lines with the LS6 lines to alleviate the problem.
Also, change the intake gaskets while you are in there, they are cheap and its not worth having one leak later on. They get compressed when you torque down the bolts, and although they can be reused, its best to replace them if they have considerable years/mileage on them.
I kept with the LS1 style and ground down my LS6 intake, and it seemed to fit, but I ended up with a vacuum leak later on. You could see where the lines were still contacting the bottom of the intake, even with the ribs completely ground off so the bottom of the intake was flat. So I replaced the LS1 lines with the LS6 lines to alleviate the problem.
Also, change the intake gaskets while you are in there, they are cheap and its not worth having one leak later on. They get compressed when you torque down the bolts, and although they can be reused, its best to replace them if they have considerable years/mileage on them.
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01-13-2009, 07:24 PM
#9
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i got the plugs with the intake i bought but i need to purchase the crossover line for the front... and like someone else said i will be purchasing the sensors that go behind it along with new gaskets to avoid any potential issues and keep up maintenance
01-13-2009, 07:57 PM
#10
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i ground down the tabs on my LS6 intake, then when i swapped to a FAST I had to buy the front coolant tube and two plugs. Just do it once and be done with it. Its like $40. whoopidoo.
01-13-2009, 08:11 PM
#11
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its really not that big of a deal if you want to spend money then get the ls6 lines and if you don't then grind down the ribs. I ground down the ribs easy done.
01-13-2009, 08:20 PM
#12
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Everybody has covered your first question. As for the foam, I think you should pull it out. If you leave it in it will end up soaking up any water that gets in there and ruining your knock sensors. At that point you get to pull the intake again, so save yourself some potential trouble.
Last edited by SidewayzOZ; 01-15-2009 at 06:38 PM. Reason: I'm retarded and put oil instead of water
01-13-2009, 09:12 PM
#13
Everybody has covered your first question. As for the foam, I think you should pull it out. If you leave it in it will end up soaking up any oil that gets in there and ruining your knock sensors. At that point you get to pull the intake again, so save yourself some potential trouble.
Doesnt the foam just keep debris and things from getting to the knock sensors as its only in the front and back. I dont know anything about this soaking up oil thing? Why would there be oil there? Ive never heard anything like this...I got the ls6 coolant lines, my friend sold them to me with the intake but I would have gotten them anyway. As for the gaskets I reused mine, the intake came off a vette with 30k miles and looked pretty good to me. My ls6 intake also had foam on the bottom just like my stock intake so I left it. I have yet to fire it up, I gotta send my TB to be ported but I forsee no problems
Last edited by jrob56; 01-13-2009 at 09:24 PM.
01-15-2009, 11:01 AM
#15
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Going with ls6 cooling lines is the trouble free best bet. Capped the rear. Got my intake new from locale dealer. Don't remember it having any foam on it. But I would recommend taking foam of one.
Last edited by phntom2k; 01-15-2009 at 11:05 AM. Reason: left off info for second part.
01-15-2009, 02:23 PM
#16
i would put the foam on, i had a lot more debris and crap in front of the front piece and behind the back piece than in between where the knock sensors are so i would say they have to help keep **** away from the sensors.
01-15-2009, 06:37 PM
#17
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I have no clue why I said soak up oil, I meant water 
I can't find the TSB, but it's out there. It's your decision, just don't say you weren't warned if you ever have knock sensors die on you. Dirt and debris wont hurt them, but pooling water definitely will.
I can't find the TSB, but it's out there. It's your decision, just don't say you weren't warned if you ever have knock sensors die on you. Dirt and debris wont hurt them, but pooling water definitely will.
01-15-2009, 07:38 PM
#18
o that makes a lot more sense, i was like oil wtf y would there be oil there but i can definitely see the water argument. ive powerwashed my engine just didnt spray directly at certain stuff and havent had problems yet. too late now anyway but i can see that happening...
01-16-2009, 12:50 PM
#19
If you want to take care of any potential issues. Go route #2 and definitely with new gaskets if you're using a used intake & purchase an oil pressure sending unit ahead of time. Yes it costs some extra money but then you have your basics covered, and should you have issues afterward's.
