demonpixel

iTrader: (19)

Hate to ask, but I'm having a HELL of a time with my prothane motor mounts. I would like to compare them to stock oem mounts that are properly installed on an LS1. I went to the dealership but they had to order them and told me that I had to pay up front the $200 before they got them in.

So if anyone at all has pics of their LS1 out of the car, with the oem mounts installed, would you mind taking pics of the driver's side and passenger side and sharing them? Getting desperate here; my mounts refuse to line up with the k-member and I think I just really need to visually compare them to how the factory setup is (I believe the motor mount tabs go on the top but now I'm not sure).

Thanks again guys

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

The red pic isn't mine.
I must have got rid of my pics.
The mounts as far as I remember, and I remember pretty good, are the same, there is no left and right.
The tabs on the insert go to the top.

demonpixel

iTrader: (19)

Thanks! Ok, if what you're saying is true, and one side of the brass metal in the prothane mounts sticks out farther on one side....then on the driver's side, the longer metal piece will be in the back, and on the passenger's side, the longer metal piece will be in the front.

is that correct? or am i about to install them wrong?

LSXnutcase

anyone know where can I find instruction on how to replace mm?

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

I had a very hard to aligning the mounts up as well. It probably took me a good hour to align the damn things up. I had to loosen the mount to the k-member and wiggle things around. In the end I got the bolt in just enough to thread it through, then tightened everything up.

Good luck!

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Thats correct.

ennovations

iTrader: (30)

LOOSEN THE CRADLES ON BOTH SIDES!

I had a hell of a time doing my first set of motor mounts until I figured out a way that works. I literally went through and tried every way that I had heard of and this was the only one that worked! My first set of mount mounts took me like 3 days and now I can do them in 5 hrs from start to finish. And I've done like 6 cars now. Good luck!

demonpixel

iTrader: (19)

Thanks guys! I'm up to 14 hours of working on this damn thing. The engine is out of the car, the k-member is out of the car, the headers are off, and the clamshells are loosely bolted to the engine on both sides. and no matter what I do, the k-member part covers up half the hole of the metal hole in the polyurethane mount.

I am prying and using a punch like crazy. the punch goes through decently, but as soon as i take it out to put in the throughbolt, i lose the placement, and the hole is halfway covered again.

ennovations

iTrader: (30)

half of the hole will probably work... just get the tip in and start beating on it with a hammer. you will not screw up those threads so you should be fine there. and i always go ahead and tighten the clams on the motor since it is hard to tighten them once the cradles are in the way.

demonpixel

iTrader: (19)

This thing is ruining my life man. I've scratched up the umi k-member, the oil pan, and the clamshells with all the prying I've done. I'm takin a break. I feel like I'm missing something; this is the most difficult thing I've had to do on this build and it's getting ridiculous.

ennovations

iTrader: (30)

i feel ur pain man. first of all, stop prying! as you probably figured out... prying against those stiff *** polys does pretty much nothing. i scratched my car up too and im still pissed about it because the next five cars i did, i could slide both the bolts in with my hand and maybe some light taps with the hammer. get those cradles as loose as possible (or you can even take the two bottom bolts out completely because it will stay aligned as long as the top two are in place) and then play with the motor by jacking it up and down.

demonpixel

iTrader: (19)

Here ya go: https://ls1tech.com/forums/texas-mem...se-help-3.html