v8maro

iTrader: (4)

Does anyone have a link to a header install how-to on the ls1? It looks pretty striat forward but I would like to see some pics of the tab that needs to be grinded, along with everything else that needs to be done. I know that one of my bolts got cross-threaded into one of my heads, what size tap will I need to re-tap the hole? Also, I know I should probably use the original bolts, but i am affraid of them crossing again, should I just buy some OEM replacement ones from the dealer?
thanks
-Steve

Fbody Man

go to ls1howto.com

PongoX11

iTrader: (15)

installuniversity.com may also have something

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

nothing specific for headers... unless I missed it!
-Steve

jrp

iTrader: (16)

its really pretty straight foward. you'll know what block tab to grind in the event you even need to. i did. i reused my old bolts and gaskets and things were fine.

basically all you need are some basic hand tools, and have your car sufficiantly in the air, as high as safely possible. slid them in from the bottom and bolt them up. the passenger side should be a piece of cake. the driver side is a bit trickier.

i removed my oil diverter tube, and attempted to take off the steering shaft but i couldnt get that bitch to move so i grinded down the block instead. after that it slid up with a bit of pushing. then just bolt up.

i'd also change your plus too while your at since the headers will be off and it wont get any easier then that

H b K l U n A

I had no idea what i was doing and completed it fine. I took the starter off as well as grinded the left side squre down. You will see it once you get under the car. Ubviously the plugs and wires. U dont have to remove the plus but I did so I wouldnt brake them. Remmeber make sure u have a long and a short 10mm socket handey forsure. I also bought a mid-bend socket wrench to make things easier. The install went easy and the reason why it took me 8 hours because I didnt know what I was doing and the space u have to work it. Good Luck!

Scott

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Mine went in easier than expected. I didn't need to remove the starter to get the headers in, but I did have to remove it to tighten one of the header bolts. Putting the dipstick back in took a while until I found the hole right next to the starter. I used a die grinder to remove the driver side aluminum block and didn't touch the steering shaft. Of course take out the plugs and unhook the battery.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

ok, so these steps: (?)
should I remove some bolts from the top? if so then:
dissconnect battery
remove wires
Remove coil packs

then start from top on some bolts then do them from the bottom? Or would it be easier to do them all from the bottom?

Loosen header to Y connection
remove header bolts
remove manifolds
change plugs
grind tab on the block (got a pic?)
install new headers
install ORY
lower car
install plugs, coil, wires
attach battery

done?

-Steve

Cal

iTrader: (1)

There is no need to remove the coil packs. Most of the manifold bolts you can get from the top, but some of those on the rear of the motor are eaiser from below. The main thing is to get the car as high as possible. I used a set of ramps I welded up myself that are a full 12 inches high, then put large jackstands under the rear axle. There was another thread recently that had pictures of the aluminum blocks; I'll see if I can find it. Another thing you might want to do is turn off all of the appropiate hardware with LS1edit before you start.

v8maro

iTrader: (4)

I don't have ls1edit but the car was tuned and the rear cats were deleted, not to mention AIR, and EGR, anything else you can think of?
-Steve

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Although you can probably reuse them, for as cheap as they are, I decided to put new exhaust manifold gaskets on with my headers (as well as new platinum plugs.) The stock GM ones are fine and you can just pick some up at the local dealership parts counter. The left side will be a little harder to get in, but be patient and wiggle it the right way and it should go right in without putting a dent in any of the tubes (at least with my QTPs.) With some of the other brands I think you have to unbolt the tranny mount and have a helper shove the tailhousing to one side.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

OK, here ya go, there is pictures in this thread:
https://ls1tech.com/threads/showflat...rue#Post767411

or try this:

http://www.prowleronline.com/ubb/ima...ds/casting.jpg

It's where he colored it red, but that's the passenger side. There's one just like it on the other side, that's the one you want to remove.

numbZ

I just removed the starter and steering shaft. Get at least 12" under the wheels and you'll be fine. You may need to slightly notch the K member on the driver side. You'll see where when you get it mocked up.

Mine took 19 hrs working with no air tools or additional hands...frequent smoke and beer breaks to prevent frustration.

Good Luck!!!!!!!!!

Z-Rated

take off the coil-packs, unless you are a bean pole, it will hurt your arms. plus it will give you a lot of room. and get a 10mm gear wrench, it will be used a lot! plus if you get stuck most of us dont have lives and live on the boards so an answer would be fast to get.