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Whats a used Fast 90/90 setup worth? Please LOOK!

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Old 04-08-2009, 11:01 PM
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Default Whats a used Fast 90/90 setup worth? Please LOOK!

I have a chance to pickup a used 90mm intake and a 90mm throttle body locally. My question is what is this setup worth, undamaged. I was thinking of going with a stall but seems like the FaST setup is an easier bolt on and less trouble. Also thinking about it over a cam. I know the stall will give me the better et GAIN but im still on my stock 10bolt and stock trans 129k and dont feel like blowing either one right now. The right cam is supposed to be worth 25-40rwhp with the right tune im told, but price of cam, springs,lifters,timing chain and install is over a grand most likely.Im still running stock 241s. I figure i can keep my same driveability and pick up maybe 15-20rwhp and do the intake install myself. Anyone been thinking what ive been thinking. Pros/cons. Advice please.

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Old 04-08-2009, 11:33 PM
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I'm not sure its a good idea to start with the FAST, BUT if you have a good deal on a used one, GET IT!! Its rare.

I paid my new ported FAST 92mm ant NW TB 92mm 1199$..
Old 04-08-2009, 11:35 PM
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A stall first, cam second and after FAST IMO..
Old 04-09-2009, 12:04 AM
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Your car will be drive like a slow piece of crap through the low RPM if you put in a decent sized cam without a stall...

Stall is there to get you into your powerband of the cam.
Old 04-09-2009, 01:53 AM
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I paid $500 for mine, $200 for tb just for reference
Old 04-09-2009, 06:41 AM
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remember you are going to need to pay for a tune touch up too for the FAST install...i say go converter it is the least expensive of the 3 and will give you the most gain...seems win win to me, the install is not that bad either, i have done 6 on my back with jack stands...
Old 04-09-2009, 11:50 AM
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You need a tune for the FAST, the cam, or the converter. Don't cheap out on the stall, get a good one from a reputable manufacturer. You also need a cooler, and it's probably not a good idea to throw a stall on an A4 with that many miles. You will be replacing the tranny soon.

The verter will give you the biggest SOTP gain, probably most gain in times too. However, if this is your DD, I think you're stupid to crack the tranny or the engine unless you have the savings to replace a tranny or engine, especially the tranny. The FAST is the smartest choice, from a reliability standpoint. Unported, you'll pick up 10-15hp without a tune. With a tune, 5-10 more, on a stock motor. A tune will be optional with the FAST, required with the stall or cam.

If you can pick up the FAST combo for cheap, I say do it, and save for the other stuff. You need some slush fund if this is your DD.
Old 04-09-2009, 04:42 PM
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I have a tune that i got for the headers and exhaust but he is local so i can always go back and have him play with it and just pay a retune fee. I am worried with a stall something will break, the expense of the cam. I was leaning towards the fast becuase i will do the cam and stall later but probably never heads.
Old 04-09-2009, 05:48 PM
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stock 243's? those aren't stock heads, well they are for a corvette.
Old 04-09-2009, 06:09 PM
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correction, stock 241s
Old 04-09-2009, 06:33 PM
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I paid $850 for a fast90/nw90 with stock fuel rails and 42lb injectors.
Old 04-09-2009, 06:49 PM
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You won't even come close to the gains with the FAST as you will with the converter. Unless you like racing on the dyno. Converter first.
Old 04-10-2009, 10:04 PM
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There is alot of people on here who DD a stalled car. It really is the best way to go. I didn't want to get one before I got my cam and stuff but I ended up getting the stall and cam installed at the same time. Honestly, the stall was the biggest difference of any of the mods I currently have. If I ever get another car to toy with, a stall will without a doubt be the first mod that goes in my car.
Old 04-11-2009, 01:57 PM
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"Your car will be drive like a slow piece of crap through the low RPM if you put in a decent sized cam without a stall..."

Is that true? At what point do u need a stall to get the benefits of a cam swap? Are there any cams u can run without a stall?
Old 04-11-2009, 04:16 PM
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You can run up to about a 220 with a factory stall, maybe a 224. But a stall will add quite a bit to a car with a factory cam. Which is why it just makes sense to do it first. Just pick a stall that will work well with the future motor mods you have planned.

Nothing wrong with picking up the FAST if it's cheap. I wouldn't necessarily install it without doing any other motor mods though. You could stick it on the shelf for later.
Old 04-11-2009, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by built408
I paid $850 for a fast90/nw90 with stock fuel rails and 42lb injectors.
Thats a hell of a deal
Old 04-12-2009, 08:47 AM
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$600-$800 for the combl. The price for used 90's has dropped a lot with the 92 out now. You will see a gain, however a small one with a stockish car.

As stated above, a stall will give an A4 is most gains in how fast the car is.
Old 04-12-2009, 09:27 AM
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^^^^^^Totally agree

You won't see much out of the FAST with a stock car because it is not much stronger until you see 5800-6000 rpm which is right where your stock motor runs out of breath....And a TC will really wake your car up
Old 04-12-2009, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sscamaro1384
"Your car will be drive like a slow piece of crap through the low RPM if you put in a decent sized cam without a stall..."

Is that true? At what point do u need a stall to get the benefits of a cam swap? Are there any cams u can run without a stall?
Yes it's true... look at the huge gains that STOCK cammed cars get from a converter. Get a stall FIRST. You don't WANT an aftermarket cam and a tight OE converter. You are looking for advice, take the advice that you are given here, I swear it's good
Old 04-12-2009, 03:20 PM
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listen to these guys and get a good converter first!


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