10 sec street car guys, come in!
04-28-2009, 12:10 AM
#1
10 sec street car guys, come in! I've been involved in mustangs all my life, and would like to start learning about a new platform. I've done some reading of the stickies, but any additional info is much appreciated.
1.With the goal of having a 10 sec F-body street car in mind, what is the best platform to start with, and what kind of budget does one need for this build taking the rear end, full system, exhaust, drive train, suspension upgrades, power adder, and the misc little things into account?
2. What kind of HP does it take to achieve 10 seconds with full interior, and what is the most reliable power adder for these cars? If the bottom end holds only 600HP, id like to put in a 408 or 427 so that I have room to go faster. This won't be a DD, but I'd like something that can hold it's own on the street, with some respectable track numbers from time to time. Thing's like putting a cage in and tubular K are not a concern, but I don't want to gut the car, and I want it done without the need for N2O. Been down that route many times, and it's time for something different.
3. If a 408 or 427 is the answer, is it cheaper to start with a v6 roller and go from there or is it cheaper to start with the 98-02 Z28 that I can pick up for $5K with 100K on the clock?
4. Where can I find the mod lists of members that run 9-10 sec 1/4 mile times?
5. Who are the good parts suppliers, and who are the shady businesses to stay away from? Who are the reputable engine builders?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks in advance!
1.With the goal of having a 10 sec F-body street car in mind, what is the best platform to start with, and what kind of budget does one need for this build taking the rear end, full system, exhaust, drive train, suspension upgrades, power adder, and the misc little things into account?
2. What kind of HP does it take to achieve 10 seconds with full interior, and what is the most reliable power adder for these cars? If the bottom end holds only 600HP, id like to put in a 408 or 427 so that I have room to go faster. This won't be a DD, but I'd like something that can hold it's own on the street, with some respectable track numbers from time to time. Thing's like putting a cage in and tubular K are not a concern, but I don't want to gut the car, and I want it done without the need for N2O. Been down that route many times, and it's time for something different.
3. If a 408 or 427 is the answer, is it cheaper to start with a v6 roller and go from there or is it cheaper to start with the 98-02 Z28 that I can pick up for $5K with 100K on the clock?
4. Where can I find the mod lists of members that run 9-10 sec 1/4 mile times?
5. Who are the good parts suppliers, and who are the shady businesses to stay away from? Who are the reputable engine builders?
Sorry for all the questions, but thanks in advance!
04-28-2009, 08:05 AM
#2
Go with a bigger ci moter or forced induction. Check out some of the engine packages http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/
I'm very happy with my forged short block from these guys.
I'm very happy with my forged short block from these guys.
04-28-2009, 08:22 AM
#3
I've been involved in mustangs all my life, and would like to start learning about a new platform. I've done some reading of the stickies, but any additional info is much appreciated.
1.With the goal of having a 10 sec F-body street car in mind, what is the best platform to start with, and what kind of budget does one need for this build taking the rear end, full system, exhaust, drive train, suspension upgrades, power adder, and the misc little things into account?
1) Pick the car you like the best. Camaro vs Firebird, then decide on trim level, also inital cost/milage. I would think the more unmolested the better. Depending on how crazy you want to get on cutting the weight and putting a auto in there budgets can range from 10k to 50k. Alot of varibles.
2. What kind of HP does it take to achieve 10 seconds with full interior, and what is the most reliable power adder for these cars? If the bottom end holds only 600HP, id like to put in a 408 or 427 so that I have room to go faster. This won't be a DD, but I'd like something that can hold it's own on the street, with some respectable track numbers from time to time. Thing's like putting a cage in and tubular K are not a concern, but I don't want to gut the car, and I want it done without the need for N2O. Been down that route many times, and it's time for something different.
2) It's not so much power, but rather the combo as a whole. Like said earlier you cut the weight down, I mean gut the car and put the plastics back, line the car with Ozite and maybe a stereo head unit and 2 speakers, no A/C or HVAC, if you stick a t-56 in there all the requirements for power/suspension change and for it to be considered respectable, your going to have to run a bias ply slick vs a drag radial on the auto car. Power is nice to have and 600 rwhp (which is a stretch) is very respectable for a factory LSX motor, I would think 550rwhp is redline for the power level. Unfortunately GM couldnt give us bullet proof blocks from the factory like the 03/04 4v Blown cobra motors. You do not need 1000hp when you make power under the curve.
3. If a 408 or 427 is the answer, is it cheaper to start with a v6 roller and go from there or is it cheaper to start with the 98-02 Z28 that I can pick up for $5K with 100K on the clock?
3)Depending on how much work you want to do, find a good v6 roller, part out everything and most likely will cover the cost of the roller and start from there
4. Where can I find the mod lists of members that run 9-10 sec 1/4 mile times?
4)Do a search, look around, the 8-10 second club is in the main forum directory.
5. Who are the good parts suppliers, and who are the shady businesses to stay away from? Who are the reputable engine builders?
5)Search Sponsor Feedback forum, there is plenty of info there.
1.With the goal of having a 10 sec F-body street car in mind, what is the best platform to start with, and what kind of budget does one need for this build taking the rear end, full system, exhaust, drive train, suspension upgrades, power adder, and the misc little things into account?
1) Pick the car you like the best. Camaro vs Firebird, then decide on trim level, also inital cost/milage. I would think the more unmolested the better. Depending on how crazy you want to get on cutting the weight and putting a auto in there budgets can range from 10k to 50k. Alot of varibles.
2. What kind of HP does it take to achieve 10 seconds with full interior, and what is the most reliable power adder for these cars? If the bottom end holds only 600HP, id like to put in a 408 or 427 so that I have room to go faster. This won't be a DD, but I'd like something that can hold it's own on the street, with some respectable track numbers from time to time. Thing's like putting a cage in and tubular K are not a concern, but I don't want to gut the car, and I want it done without the need for N2O. Been down that route many times, and it's time for something different.
2) It's not so much power, but rather the combo as a whole. Like said earlier you cut the weight down, I mean gut the car and put the plastics back, line the car with Ozite and maybe a stereo head unit and 2 speakers, no A/C or HVAC, if you stick a t-56 in there all the requirements for power/suspension change and for it to be considered respectable, your going to have to run a bias ply slick vs a drag radial on the auto car. Power is nice to have and 600 rwhp (which is a stretch) is very respectable for a factory LSX motor, I would think 550rwhp is redline for the power level. Unfortunately GM couldnt give us bullet proof blocks from the factory like the 03/04 4v Blown cobra motors. You do not need 1000hp when you make power under the curve.
3. If a 408 or 427 is the answer, is it cheaper to start with a v6 roller and go from there or is it cheaper to start with the 98-02 Z28 that I can pick up for $5K with 100K on the clock?
3)Depending on how much work you want to do, find a good v6 roller, part out everything and most likely will cover the cost of the roller and start from there
4. Where can I find the mod lists of members that run 9-10 sec 1/4 mile times?
4)Do a search, look around, the 8-10 second club is in the main forum directory.
5. Who are the good parts suppliers, and who are the shady businesses to stay away from? Who are the reputable engine builders?
5)Search Sponsor Feedback forum, there is plenty of info there.
04-28-2009, 08:56 AM
#4
We need to know how much street driving you actually do, how much highway driving, and how important civility is to you. Also need to know your choice of transmission. It's RELATIVELY easy to get into the 10s consistently if you do mostly city driving, are tolerant of a rough drive, don't care much for MPG, and like an auto.
If you go M6, plan on a 12 bolt or 9 inch rear. If you go auto, your stock tranny will likely be first to need an upgrade. Regardless, you will want shocks - don't go QA1s, they suck for a regular driver. Get Bilsteins, Konis, or AGXs (if no other choice). Money spent here is good for your daily comfort and control. You will want LCAs (probably relo brackets too), a PHB, and SFCs would be a good idea. Upgrade your brakes too, be smart. A C5 front upgrade with some Hawk pads is wise and pretty cost effective. You'll also want a good torque arm, whichever way you go.
Solidify a lid and/or FTRA. Also get you a good exhaust, I recommend Kooks or ARH headers. Cats or not will be your choice. Run true duals for most power and torque (and sound).
From here it gets interesting. Do you want to spray it? If so, you can get there with RELATIVELY few mods, if you're going auto. Auto mandates a stall first, make sure you have a rebuild fund ready for the 4L60e. With this setup, there are a good amount of guys with heads, cam and spray in the 10s. Some even on stock heads. Are you willing to do weight reduction? That will make it easier, at the expense of some comfort.
If you want to go 6 speed, hitting 10s gets a bit harder. You get to keep more control, more fun, and more MPG - but you pay the price with consistency and an appetite for 10 bolt rears. This will require the suspension mentioned above, drag radials, and a serious DRIVER MOD. 10s can be done with the mods above, but more cubes is always better. There are guys in the 10s going this route with no spray.
In essence, we need to know your preferences, your actual real world use of this car, to know if you have slush fund for repairs/a beater. Once we know these things, we can give you more targeted advice.
If you go M6, plan on a 12 bolt or 9 inch rear. If you go auto, your stock tranny will likely be first to need an upgrade. Regardless, you will want shocks - don't go QA1s, they suck for a regular driver. Get Bilsteins, Konis, or AGXs (if no other choice). Money spent here is good for your daily comfort and control. You will want LCAs (probably relo brackets too), a PHB, and SFCs would be a good idea. Upgrade your brakes too, be smart. A C5 front upgrade with some Hawk pads is wise and pretty cost effective. You'll also want a good torque arm, whichever way you go.
Solidify a lid and/or FTRA. Also get you a good exhaust, I recommend Kooks or ARH headers. Cats or not will be your choice. Run true duals for most power and torque (and sound).
From here it gets interesting. Do you want to spray it? If so, you can get there with RELATIVELY few mods, if you're going auto. Auto mandates a stall first, make sure you have a rebuild fund ready for the 4L60e. With this setup, there are a good amount of guys with heads, cam and spray in the 10s. Some even on stock heads. Are you willing to do weight reduction? That will make it easier, at the expense of some comfort.
If you want to go 6 speed, hitting 10s gets a bit harder. You get to keep more control, more fun, and more MPG - but you pay the price with consistency and an appetite for 10 bolt rears. This will require the suspension mentioned above, drag radials, and a serious DRIVER MOD. 10s can be done with the mods above, but more cubes is always better. There are guys in the 10s going this route with no spray.
In essence, we need to know your preferences, your actual real world use of this car, to know if you have slush fund for repairs/a beater. Once we know these things, we can give you more targeted advice.
04-28-2009, 12:18 PM
#5
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remember these cars can do 10s cam only
I'd look for a V8 car and go from there
LSx options are so numerous now
any of the sponsors to the right would be a good place to start
good luck and enjoy
I'd look for a V8 car and go from there
LSx options are so numerous now
any of the sponsors to the right would be a good place to start
good luck and enjoy