Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

I've heard that they are interchangable, so the first question is off what models, and do any of them put out more amps?

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

They do put out more amps, 130-140 vs our 95, they are NOT compatible. Best just to get a high output aftermarket unit. Try Alterstart or Iraggi. Make sure you do your Big 3 first, will help, may solve your issue.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

What is the Big 3? It is just larger cables?

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Yes, larger cables (I use 0 gauge) on 3 connections:
1. Battery NEG to ground
2. Batter POS to alternator
3. Engine to chassis ground

This maximizes the current flow on the entire circuit, easing strain and helping your alternator do its best. Don't do caps, Big 3 + good battery (Optima). Next stop - HO alternator.

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean by "don't do caps"?

I have all of the big 3, except for the one from the engine to the chassis.

I have someone who rebuilds alts and starters. He says he can rebuild the stock one, and beef it up to put out more amps.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Cap = capacitor
It's pollution to the system in my opinion. It's short term storage of power and can level out big spiky draws, however, it does add a drain to the system on startup and can make things act funny.

I would add the 3rd piece of the Big 3 to complete the charging circuit upgrade. Get an Optima or other premium battery and by all means, get the alternator rebuilt if you trust your buddy's work. Most HO units are simply rebuilt stockers anyway. Those 3 things will solve most any audio and charging problem.

spy2520

iTrader: (3)

why you say they arent compatible? I had an alterstart and it was a rewound truck alternator, physically bigger, but still bolted up and hooked up to the factory ****. The only difference is physical size, but as far as i have seen they all work, i dont know about the truck alternators after 2004 though, could be different. i havent checked.

Black Sunshine/ 00SS

iTrader: (1)

The only issue I'm having is that the voltage is reading low on startup, down in the red zone. I'll have to plug it in to get an exact reading. Also the battery is in the rear, not to mention that this alt is the one that came on the car stock, it's an 01.

Wondering, with the yellow top Optima in the back, whats a normal reading for the volts.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

Couple of things:
Don't trust your dash voltmeter to be accurate, it's only an indicator. The needle can be moved too easily like when one installs an overlay and has to pull the needles. It may even be off from the factory.

If your battery is in the rear, this makes the Big3 MORE important. I would DEFINITELY run 0 gauge wire because the longer the run, the more current you lose and you need bigger cable to compensate.

Output in volts is less important than amps as something to measure. Optimas tend to put out a little more than regular batteries, but not more than 14.4 volts. You need to have your alternator tested, if it's good, keep it. How many amplifiers do you have? Add up the combined fuses for all of them and tell me the amperage you come up with. The OEM alt is pretty decent, better than the Delco replacements, which are better than any parts store unit. When is *****, do one of two things:
Replace it at a dealer, you get a lifetime parts AND labor warranty (I've used the hell outta mine)
Get a HO unit that has more output, especially at idle. An OEM unit that has been rebuilt/rewound is usually a good option.
Anything else is a waste of time.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

I went to a Chevy parts counter and spent the time to physically compare the f-body unit to the 4.8/5.3/6.0 units from a couple of applications. The mounting bolts did not line up the same and some of the case shapes were different. I didn't base this on size at all. IIRC, this was the case with the Ybody alts also. Unless someone else has actually done it without drilling/tapping/grinding, I trust my eyeballs on this one.

JoeKnowsBaseball

iTrader: (5)

I've had problems with my charging system for a while. My amp draws a lot of power and the only time the guage ever shows 13+ volts is with the stereo off and cruising at 70 mph. I tested the alternator and it's not fully charging. I work on BMWs and deal with Bosch a lot. I found a Bosh alternator that's a 102 amp instead of the factory 95. Would this be a bad buy or not? I can get it for $89 after core.

onebadazzls1ta

Uh NOTE TO SELF your output will drop big time I'm sitting at 12.00 volts without the system on with it cranking I'm seeing 11.4 to 12.4. And I have two batteries as well.

onebadazzls1ta

Whoops what I meant to say is if you do the big 3 without the alternator your power levels will drop drastically.

jmilz28

iTrader: (13)

This is absolutely not the case. There must be something else wrong in your system. My guess is one weak battery, or more likely, a loose connection somewhere. Also, be very careful about using your dash volt gauge, they are horribly inaccurate.

onebadazzls1ta

It's a aeroforce gauge