Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

After reading the thread on the poly MM install, I'm reconsidering the solids :p

How much easier is it to install a solid MM?

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

They are pretty easy to install. Granted I had my manifolds out of the way becuase I was installing headers at the same time. Just unblot one side with a jack taking the pressure off under the oil pan. Loosen the other side and replace the side you removed the bolts from. Start the bolts and then do the other side. Let the jack down slowly and tighten the bolts as it comes down. Pretty straight forword and easy.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Mine took about 30 minutes per side to install with the headers still in place. Passenger side was very easy, drivers side was a little harder but still not bad.

drummydummy

iTrader: (1)

During my Poly motor mount instal the thing that was definitly the most pain in the *** was breaking open the old casings and drilling out the rivots and putting the new poly's in.

When doing a solid mount install you eliminate that entire procedure. So yes, it would save you a lot of time and frustration but there are sacrafices, especially with a heavily modified motor.

Unertl42

iTrader: (63)

remember, with solid MM, you basically have to remove the engine to do any trans work

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's the one thing that has me pausing - that and not a clue how bad the vibrations will be. I'll keep the stock / poly tranny mount for sure, but I keep reading nightmares about the poly install. I'll be doing headers at the same time though...

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

My vibes are noticable at idle, and around 2500 rpm. At all other speeds the car is actually smoother than it was with the stock mounts.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

I don't really have any vibes. About as smooth as stock. Little bit just off idle at like 900 RPM for a second thats it. Also you don't need to remove the engine for tranny work. Just loosen the back two bolts per side and remove the forward two bolts per side. Engine will tilt and you can grab the top bolt on the bell housing. Also one awsome thing about them is my exhaust is tucked up within a 1/16 of the floorboards. Kinda a big deal when your running 3" duals out the sides. One more thing I love is how the car rocks alot when you start it and rev it.

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

are you saying loosen the MM bolts, or the tranny mount bolts?

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

M/M bolts, loosen them and then and the engine can tilt but not fall off the M/M's. Also I would run a stock rubber trans mount. With solid M/M's there is no point to run a poly and it will help to absorb some of the vibes. I would reccomend solid M/M's to anyone. Even my friend thought it was stupid to put them on a street car but after he rode in mine after the install he changed his mind and said he would run them too.

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's what I was planning. Cool to know that there are workarounds for the tranny work though. Does your car actually vibrate / rattle at idle at all?

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

No not really at all. If you didn't know I had them and you were sitting in the car you wouldn't know any different. Just above idle at about 900RPM say taking off from a stoplight I may get a very slight rattle/vibe for 1 second and that only happens about 1 out of 10 times. I have solid M/M's and a stocker rubber trans mount. I ran a poly trans for a little bit becuase I broke the stock rubber before the M/M install and the vibes were worse. Only drove it for a little bit untill the factory one I ordered came in and it took all the vibes right out.

nukeemall454

newb to motor mounts. why would u have 2 drop the engine to work on on the tranny with solids?

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

You don't, he is mistaken. It does complicate things though when it comes to trans. removal. With stock rubber mounts after you pull the rear crossmember under the tailshaft of the trans. the engine will tilt back allowing you to get to the top bell bolt easier. With solids you have to take out the bolts running from the motor mount into the side of the blots to allow you to do this. Pull the forward two bolts per side and loosen the back two bolts per side and it will tilt back.

98RedBird

iTrader: (77)

He is not 100% mistaken. While it does not make transmission work impossible without removing the motor/trans together, it really does make it a PITA. In some instances I've found when doing a TC install or just a trans removal in general it's easier to drop the K member a few inches rather than mess with loosening the MM bolts. I've had solid mounts on two F-Cars now and while I loved the Solids in most every way, I didn't so much like them when I had to do a converter swap or pull the trans... It can be done, but it's just about 10x more difficult to get it done with Solid mounts in there as opposed to the rubbers or poly's.

And to the OP, as ShortChevy said, what makes it difficult when dealing with the Solid mounts as opposed to the stockers is that it's tough to get the engine/trans tilted downward enough to get to the upper bellhousing bolts. That's all really. Everything else is pretty much the same.

Lopoetve

iTrader: (1)

Well, that can probably be managed, I guess :p I hope after dropping in a built T-56 at some point I won't have to do a whole lot in there

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

That's all I was trying to say was that, no you do not have to remove the engine to do trans work. Granted things are alot easier with rubbers or polys. Dropping the K member down is easier then messing with the M/M bolts. I was just stating you can still tilt the engine with solid M/M's

nukeemall454

Ok I understand guys thanks

WickedSuperSport

I heard you have to remove all the belts when doing motor mounts, is this true?? because i mean Arc00TA said he did his mounts in about an hour, and that wouldn't really be possible if you have to take all the belts off and crap. Im going to be doing solid mounts at the same time im installing my headers, just want to know what im in for. Also I can't really find a write up on how to install solid mounts, so im guessing they are pretty easy and straight forward like ShortChevy said?

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

Whoever said that must have pulled the A/C compressor and the altenator to gain some room. If you do it while you do headers like I did there is a ton of room from the backside. After you get the headers and M/M's you'll also be surprised how empty it looks on the sides of the engine from all the room in there.