Whining Alternator
07-26-2009, 11:13 AM
#1
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Whining Alternator Searched and couldn't find a concise answer; please help.
I finally pinpointed the source of some whining under my hood to the alternator.
It started a few months ago and it seems to be working fine but it's annoying as anything and what's worse is that it comes through my speakers, making it even louder.
My question is whether I should just replace it now or make sure it's not something else first (which is where I need help, I don't know where to start if it is something else).
Symptoms:
- Doesn't whine with the belt off
- Whines through speakers
- Gets louder when accesories are running (headlights/rear defogger/air conditioning/radio)
- Gets louder under increased throttle
Diagnosis:
- I was hoping someone could steer me in the best direction
I finally pinpointed the source of some whining under my hood to the alternator.
It started a few months ago and it seems to be working fine but it's annoying as anything and what's worse is that it comes through my speakers, making it even louder.
My question is whether I should just replace it now or make sure it's not something else first (which is where I need help, I don't know where to start if it is something else).
Symptoms:
- Doesn't whine with the belt off
- Whines through speakers
- Gets louder when accesories are running (headlights/rear defogger/air conditioning/radio)
- Gets louder under increased throttle
Diagnosis:
- I was hoping someone could steer me in the best direction
07-27-2009, 11:26 AM
#3
You alternator is on borrowed time - guaranteed. I've been through 6 (for free, thank you GM lifetime parts warranty) and not all were AC Delco's fault. I'm surprised it's lasted months for you. It will die on you...at a very inconvenient time.
Do NOT put a ******* Duralast in there unless you are selling the car tomorrow and have a deposit on it. They are horrible, seen dozens of them fail on different cars within months.
First, Make sure there are no other draws in the system and that your entire battery cables are not corroded. If they are, clean and repaint with undercoat, or replace them.
Next, either way, put an Optima in that bitch AND upgrade your big 3. Even if you don't do the stereo thing, this will pay dividends for you in terms of blower and AC output, light brightness, etc. It will also help your alternator have better output and live longer.
The main event-
Do one of two things, if you plan to keep the car long term:
1. Pay a Chevy dealer to replace it (lifetime parts AND labor warranty) if stock output is sufficient (102 or 105 amps). This is more expensive up front but it saves hassle - alternator worries are solved forever.
2. Get a high output unit from someone like Irragi or Alter Start, will last longer than everything except maybe the original unit and be MUCH better. There are some onn eBay now for less than $225 shipped! This is the best option if you don't mind wrenching and will be my next solution, in all likelihood.
Anything else is a waste of time and/or money. If you don't believe me, search for other posts by me with the word alternator in them.
My recommendation:
1. Clean battery cables and terminals
2. Paint area with undercoating
3. 4 or 0 gauge Big 3 upgrade
4. Install Optima battery (red top for DD, yellow top if you let the car sit for long periods)
5. Install Alter Start HO alternator, check for draws in the system
6. Be happy for a LOOOOOOOOOOOONG time
This will be 4-500 bones and a full day of work but a fucked charging system ***** everything else, often manifesting in hard to diagnose issues. This will solve, fix, and prevent MANY of them. Every accessory will operate better and you'll even get better ignition spark.
This advice is from LOTS of obervation AND personal experience. Take any other route and you will not get maximum results. Satisfactory, maybe, but not optimal. If you are keeping this car for years, you will thank me, guaranteed. Act on this now, or you will be stranded, your alternator is running too hard and too often.That's more than concise, it's detailed and thorough.
Do NOT put a ******* Duralast in there unless you are selling the car tomorrow and have a deposit on it. They are horrible, seen dozens of them fail on different cars within months.
First, Make sure there are no other draws in the system and that your entire battery cables are not corroded. If they are, clean and repaint with undercoat, or replace them.
Next, either way, put an Optima in that bitch AND upgrade your big 3. Even if you don't do the stereo thing, this will pay dividends for you in terms of blower and AC output, light brightness, etc. It will also help your alternator have better output and live longer.
The main event-
Do one of two things, if you plan to keep the car long term:
1. Pay a Chevy dealer to replace it (lifetime parts AND labor warranty) if stock output is sufficient (102 or 105 amps). This is more expensive up front but it saves hassle - alternator worries are solved forever.
2. Get a high output unit from someone like Irragi or Alter Start, will last longer than everything except maybe the original unit and be MUCH better. There are some onn eBay now for less than $225 shipped! This is the best option if you don't mind wrenching and will be my next solution, in all likelihood.
Anything else is a waste of time and/or money. If you don't believe me, search for other posts by me with the word alternator in them.
My recommendation:
1. Clean battery cables and terminals
2. Paint area with undercoating
3. 4 or 0 gauge Big 3 upgrade
4. Install Optima battery (red top for DD, yellow top if you let the car sit for long periods)
5. Install Alter Start HO alternator, check for draws in the system
6. Be happy for a LOOOOOOOOOOOONG time
This will be 4-500 bones and a full day of work but a fucked charging system ***** everything else, often manifesting in hard to diagnose issues. This will solve, fix, and prevent MANY of them. Every accessory will operate better and you'll even get better ignition spark.
This advice is from LOTS of obervation AND personal experience. Take any other route and you will not get maximum results. Satisfactory, maybe, but not optimal. If you are keeping this car for years, you will thank me, guaranteed. Act on this now, or you will be stranded, your alternator is running too hard and too often.That's more than concise, it's detailed and thorough.
Last edited by jmilz28; 07-27-2009 at 11:39 AM.
07-28-2009, 07:20 AM
#4
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jmilz28, you sound pretty adamant about this. I think that's the route I am going to go though, seeing as I dont want my alternator to go at the most inconvenient time.
I went to Advanced Auto to get it tested and they said the alternator was fine and the battery was fine but maybe the connection was corroded. There is some corrosion on there so I'm definitely going to clean that off and see if it helps, but will probably end up buying a new alternator anyways.
Is a high-performance 200 amp really worth it over the 102 amp?
I went to Advanced Auto to get it tested and they said the alternator was fine and the battery was fine but maybe the connection was corroded. There is some corrosion on there so I'm definitely going to clean that off and see if it helps, but will probably end up buying a new alternator anyways.
Is a high-performance 200 amp really worth it over the 102 amp?
07-28-2009, 11:04 AM
#5
The pigtail connector to the alternator could be bad/loose/corroded. You could go on ebay and search LS1 alternator and you'll see one or two sellers that have new pigtails.
Advance/AZ/OReillys - all their tests are limited in scope. They'll test output at a fixed RPM for a short time. When the alt. is in your car, the RPM changes often, as do the physical and electrical loads. Often, you may not hear the whining from bad bearings in the test conditions like you do on the car.
It's also possible your belt tensioner is bad, which could cause a very similar squeak/squeal. Given that you say you hear it through the radio, it's not likely. I put a Katech tensioner on last year, it's awesome - just make sure not to overtorque it/overtighten the belt.
As far as regular vs. HO, I look at it this way: They're almost the same price, why not get the better unit. The only other option I'd consider is to get a Delco unit that you know is rebuilt locally. Local guys tend to do a better job, quality-wise, than the Chinese and Mexican re-poppers. Besides, having the extra output will give you cushion for anything and everything that pulls amps.
Yes, the difference is huge b/t 102 and 200 and it's more dramatic than the DOUBLING suggests. Where it really matters is at idle. Often, the HO units have triple the output of the stocker at idle. So when you're idling in the heat and kick the AC on and the blower is on high, the RPMs don't drop and you don't have to wonder why your volt gauge is near the red range. Or if you have big stereo, when it booms, you won't worry about the draw stalling the car - I've seen it happen in both cases.
If your battery is weak, but not bad, your alt will run more and die sooner. If your cables are corroded, the alt will run more and die sooner. If there is a big draw...you get the idea.
Check the cables, as often as not, they're corroded. This can cause a draw but WILL strain your alternator as it has to push current through a crappy connection. You may get lucky and this fixes the actual problem you're experiencing now, but the crappy connection has knocked a lot of life out of your alternator. If you can afford it, replace it at the same time, along with the battery and Big 3. I know it's a lot of work at once, but it will be worth it.
Good battery (Optima), clean cables and terminals, Big 3 upgrade are a MUST - along with replacing your alternator that is in its death throes. If you do all this, you won't have to worry with this crap for a while - AND you get to schedule it instead of it scheduling you. The cost for that Alterstart unit on ebay is only a few bucks more than a new one elsewhere and less than a new GM unit. More output, better quality, Made in USA, no brainer for me. Those extra few bucks on the HO unit and Optima are cheap insurance so I don't break down so much and get to enjoy the car more.
I don't mean to come off bossy but I have been through all this on my car and many customers' cars in a past life as a dealership service advisor. It's easy to recommend things that you know work and have done on your car. If the damn thing leaves you stranded, it knocks the shine off the enjoyment of the car...and I bought this car to enjoy, every day.
I spend a lot of time fixing/upgrading things that GM skimped on. Shocks were the biggest upgrade/need. A good battery and upgraded charging circuit were next in terms of reliability and importance. The FIRST THING I did when I bought the car was literally an Optima and I only put it in after I tossed the leaky shitty Delco battery, cleaned the cables well, painted the area with undercoating, and upgraded the Big 3. The only thing I might have done different was go straight to the Alterstart unit. The alternators haven't cost me any money (all 6 of the replacements, again not all were Delco's fault) but it has been a hassle sometimes making the trip.
Frankly, don't fall into the "stealership" mentality. This parts warranty has covered over $2000 in alternator repair visits alone. This warranty applies to repairs under the GMPP extended warranty and paying out of pocket. Sounds like a good deal to me. It also works out real well on AC compressors (I'm on my third), fuel pumps, water pumps, starters...
If you know what parts/repairs work out to you advantage, a dealer is a great way to go. However, outside of the lifetime P&L warranty, a dealer is just another shop - some are good, some suck, and it can be hard to find one you trust.
I like maintaining my car and making it faster, I don't like fixing ****...so I try to make it to where I don't spend a lot of time fixing ****. I hope my experience and the process I use is helpful to you...it has been for me.
Good luck, bro.
Advance/AZ/OReillys - all their tests are limited in scope. They'll test output at a fixed RPM for a short time. When the alt. is in your car, the RPM changes often, as do the physical and electrical loads. Often, you may not hear the whining from bad bearings in the test conditions like you do on the car.
It's also possible your belt tensioner is bad, which could cause a very similar squeak/squeal. Given that you say you hear it through the radio, it's not likely. I put a Katech tensioner on last year, it's awesome - just make sure not to overtorque it/overtighten the belt.
As far as regular vs. HO, I look at it this way: They're almost the same price, why not get the better unit. The only other option I'd consider is to get a Delco unit that you know is rebuilt locally. Local guys tend to do a better job, quality-wise, than the Chinese and Mexican re-poppers. Besides, having the extra output will give you cushion for anything and everything that pulls amps.
Yes, the difference is huge b/t 102 and 200 and it's more dramatic than the DOUBLING suggests. Where it really matters is at idle. Often, the HO units have triple the output of the stocker at idle. So when you're idling in the heat and kick the AC on and the blower is on high, the RPMs don't drop and you don't have to wonder why your volt gauge is near the red range. Or if you have big stereo, when it booms, you won't worry about the draw stalling the car - I've seen it happen in both cases.
If your battery is weak, but not bad, your alt will run more and die sooner. If your cables are corroded, the alt will run more and die sooner. If there is a big draw...you get the idea.
Check the cables, as often as not, they're corroded. This can cause a draw but WILL strain your alternator as it has to push current through a crappy connection. You may get lucky and this fixes the actual problem you're experiencing now, but the crappy connection has knocked a lot of life out of your alternator. If you can afford it, replace it at the same time, along with the battery and Big 3. I know it's a lot of work at once, but it will be worth it.
Good battery (Optima), clean cables and terminals, Big 3 upgrade are a MUST - along with replacing your alternator that is in its death throes. If you do all this, you won't have to worry with this crap for a while - AND you get to schedule it instead of it scheduling you. The cost for that Alterstart unit on ebay is only a few bucks more than a new one elsewhere and less than a new GM unit. More output, better quality, Made in USA, no brainer for me. Those extra few bucks on the HO unit and Optima are cheap insurance so I don't break down so much and get to enjoy the car more.
I don't mean to come off bossy but I have been through all this on my car and many customers' cars in a past life as a dealership service advisor. It's easy to recommend things that you know work and have done on your car. If the damn thing leaves you stranded, it knocks the shine off the enjoyment of the car...and I bought this car to enjoy, every day.
I spend a lot of time fixing/upgrading things that GM skimped on. Shocks were the biggest upgrade/need. A good battery and upgraded charging circuit were next in terms of reliability and importance. The FIRST THING I did when I bought the car was literally an Optima and I only put it in after I tossed the leaky shitty Delco battery, cleaned the cables well, painted the area with undercoating, and upgraded the Big 3. The only thing I might have done different was go straight to the Alterstart unit. The alternators haven't cost me any money (all 6 of the replacements, again not all were Delco's fault) but it has been a hassle sometimes making the trip.
Frankly, don't fall into the "stealership" mentality. This parts warranty has covered over $2000 in alternator repair visits alone. This warranty applies to repairs under the GMPP extended warranty and paying out of pocket. Sounds like a good deal to me. It also works out real well on AC compressors (I'm on my third), fuel pumps, water pumps, starters...
If you know what parts/repairs work out to you advantage, a dealer is a great way to go. However, outside of the lifetime P&L warranty, a dealer is just another shop - some are good, some suck, and it can be hard to find one you trust. I like maintaining my car and making it faster, I don't like fixing ****...so I try to make it to where I don't spend a lot of time fixing ****. I hope my experience and the process I use is helpful to you...it has been for me.
Good luck, bro.
Last edited by jmilz28; 07-28-2009 at 11:23 AM.
08-08-2009, 09:52 PM
#6
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Another option Just did my alternator yesterday, details in another post. Anyway, my car is a 98 TA and I had the alternator rebuilt locally by a good shop. Cost was $99.98, 1 yr warranty. I had them rebuild it as a true one wire, hook up the power wire and thats it. No more dealing with the exciter wire. Everthing is working great and no SES codes. Clean connections and extra grounds are worth it.
John
John
