2002ws-6

iTrader: (5)

I've read all the threads on doing motor mounts and was a little nervous about all the horror stories and the amount of time it takes. I did mine by myself (no help of any kind) with 2 autozone ramps, and the stock car jack in my driveway in 6 hours including the trans mount! first three hours where at night with little light. No need to remove or relocate the alternator or A/C compressor or the drive belt

Only tools I used
Ramps
Stock Jack
Piece of wood
3/8 flex head wratchet
1/4 wratchet
8mm deep socket
10mm deep socket
1/4 6" extention
18mm stubby wrench
18mm deep socket
3/8 3" extention
3/8 12" extention
10mm deep and shallow socket
13mm deep and shallow socket
15mm deep and shallow socket
13mm wrench
15mm wrench
O2 sensor socket
12" prybar
Drill and 3/8 bit

1. Put front end up on ramps, apply e-brake, put in gear, and chock wheels

2. Disconnect the Battery

3. Removed the Stock Cats, I had magna flow but it is the same process. Two 15mm bolts on the y-pipe, 3 15mm studs on the manifolds. Disconnect the 3 o2 sensor wires, 1 on drivers side, 2 on pass side. Remove Cats

4. Removed Stock manifolds, Air tubes, 2 10mm bolts per side, small screw driver for the hose clamp. Then remove dipstick, 1 15mm bolt. Next 6, 10mm or 13mm bolts per manifold, stock are 10mm. GM replacements are 13mm. Remove 02 sensor from drivers side. Remove all but one middle bolt. The last bolt per side try to hold the manifold with one hand while turning the last bolts last few treads with the other. Both manifolds removed from under car.

5. Remove starter two 13mm bolts. Disconnect Wires and ground cable, unhook 02 sensor from k-member, and the wire clamp just above it. Move the wires out of the way.

6. Pass side motor mount. Loosen but dont remove the four bolts holding the mount to the engine. 13mm deep socket worked on all four for me. Next loosen the large bolt with 18mm deep socket and 18mm stubby wrench, and finally loosen the 4 15mm bolts holding the pedistal to the k-member. Now get the jack and wood, and put it under the oil pan on the pass side. jack it up just until the jack takes the load off the mount. Now remove the four bolts on the mount and pedistal. I now had to raise the motor about a half inch. I loosend the trans mount and the 18mm bolt on the drivers side. Next fiddle with and slide the mount and pedistal assembly out. Once out remove the 18mm bolt and follow the directions from the poly mount. With the new mount ready, put the mount and pedistal together without the 18mm bolt. The tabs will temporarily hold it in place. I slid it back in and started all the bolts by hand. I was able to put my long bolt through now in the opposite direction from O.E. you may have to lower the motor a little to do this, but mine slid right in. Lower the motor and tighten the 4 motor mount and 4 pedistal bolts, but leave the 18 mm loose.

7. Driver side is the same process as the pass side but there are a few more steps. The heat shield on the top two bolts has to come off I used 1/4" wratchet and deep 10mm socket. One of the four pedistal bolts is under the steering u-joint I just used a 15mm wrench instead of a wratchet on this one.
Going back together the bolt was a little harder to line up but a quick use of the pry bar and the bolt slid in. I then wratcheted the 18mm all the way through and put the nut back on. Now lower the motor and tighten the 18mm bolts.

8. Trans mount, was real easy. Put the jack under the trans with wood. The trans mount bolt is already loose. Remove the 4 15mm bolts and then the 18mm trans mount bolt completely removed. There are two 13mm bolts on the stock mount remove them, Follow the directions from the mount and put it back together.

9. Put all the parts back on in reverse order. I intalled stainless shorty headers at the same time.

Mumbles

iTrader: (5)

Good job, man! By removing the pedestal and the clamshell you make it kind of like installing solid motor mounts. Cool idea.

DaveX

That is a good write up, nice job. But I will say you still removed many items to get to them. The best time to do them is if your going to be installing headers (or heads) then it would be a piece of cake. I have headers but did not remove them or the 02 sensors. I did remove the alternator and loosened the a/c compressor but not the starter IIRC. No matter how you do it it's alot of work if you aren't already planning to remove the manifolds or headers.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Nice write up. If you get a tube K member you can skip alot of those steps

2002ws-6

iTrader: (5)

Yeah I removed the manifolds and replaced them with shortie's but I think some times trying to work around some of the parts is a lot more hassel than the time it takes to remove them. I know full length headers can be a pain to get in and out! I had the; cats, manifolds, and starter out in under an hour. I've read people spending hours trying to get the long bolt back in, I spent 10 seconds on the pass side and 5-10 minutes on the drivers, I could do the job in 4-5 hours the next time. Also a new high quality 3/8 drill bit really helped alot on taking the clamshell apart!