How do you wire NEATLY?
09-10-2009, 01:06 AM
#1
How do you wire NEATLY? This is probably a dumb thread but I'm interested in how other people wire their Nitrous/Bottle heaters/Solenoids/Dedicated Fuel systems/Switches/ Etc.
1.) What kinda of wire do you use? Not gauge wise but braided,regular, etc?
2.) Where do you usually ground your switches to the inside?
3.) Where do you use your grounds outside?
4.) Do you use T-Taps? And how do you make sure the Taps are getting to the 12 volt source?
5.) Where do you find and use your Keyed 12 volt sources from?
6.) Do you write up your own diagrams so you know where you want to put everything before you start?
7.) Where do you hide your relays?
Any tips on how to make wiring look good and work good please post up!
Pictures are also welcomed
1.) What kinda of wire do you use? Not gauge wise but braided,regular, etc?
2.) Where do you usually ground your switches to the inside?
3.) Where do you use your grounds outside?
4.) Do you use T-Taps? And how do you make sure the Taps are getting to the 12 volt source?
5.) Where do you find and use your Keyed 12 volt sources from?
6.) Do you write up your own diagrams so you know where you want to put everything before you start?
7.) Where do you hide your relays?
Any tips on how to make wiring look good and work good please post up!
Pictures are also welcomed
09-10-2009, 07:43 AM
#2
My $.02.. We start w/ a list of what we want to do. This is followed w/ a diagram showing all devices that are to be used. Wire sizes are indicated on the diagram[s]. We use GXL wire. It is a thin wall, cross-link coated wire.
There are other types that will work:
SXL is standard wall wire, and may get bulkier if run in large bundles.
TXL has an ultra thin wall, and will make for the slimest bundle.
We find SXL is the least expensive, and TXL is at the other end of the cost list.
Local auto parts wire is avoided, if possible. Some of it has fewer strands, has lower operating temp ratings. [More strands in a wire the better.]
We use only continous rated relays. Mounting is usually dictated by the application.
We leave 1 end of the wires without terminals until we test fit the harness.
Switches and all other grounds are run to welded in studs. Engine, chassis, body grounds are very important w/ "electronic cars". [Most component mfgrs will tell you where they want thier products grounded.]
We use crimped connections and shrink tube on all such connectors. We avoid the "insulated" terminals, as they are bulky, and may/may not give a good crimp. Thus, uninsulated connectors and shrink tube is used.
We also use shrink tube to bundle wires. Ty wraps are used, along w/ stick-on/screw-on mounts. We use a small diagonal wire cutter to get the ends of the wraps cut off flush.. [Really pisses me off to see the blood dripping, when I jam a sharp wrap end into my arm!]
For multiple wire connections, we use Metripak connectors.
In any case, use ONLY quality crimping tools.! NOT cheap, but necessary.
T-taps are a NO NO! They cut some/many of the strands, and are not worth the time saved to use them.[On top of that, they look like "Fido's ***"!]
If you need to splice into a wire, do it at the connector, or peel some insulation, intertwine the strands, solder and shrink wrap.
Keyed 12vdc can be pulled from the fuse panel, or you can use a relay that closes w/ key on/run, and start.
We use a constant voltage supply to test the harness prior to installing.
When installing we use dielectric grease on the connections.
We buy our materials from WAYTEK.
Take a look at thier site.. www.waytekwire.com
HTH,
There are other types that will work:
SXL is standard wall wire, and may get bulkier if run in large bundles.
TXL has an ultra thin wall, and will make for the slimest bundle.
We find SXL is the least expensive, and TXL is at the other end of the cost list.
Local auto parts wire is avoided, if possible. Some of it has fewer strands, has lower operating temp ratings. [More strands in a wire the better.]
We use only continous rated relays. Mounting is usually dictated by the application.
We leave 1 end of the wires without terminals until we test fit the harness.
Switches and all other grounds are run to welded in studs. Engine, chassis, body grounds are very important w/ "electronic cars". [Most component mfgrs will tell you where they want thier products grounded.]
We use crimped connections and shrink tube on all such connectors. We avoid the "insulated" terminals, as they are bulky, and may/may not give a good crimp. Thus, uninsulated connectors and shrink tube is used.
We also use shrink tube to bundle wires. Ty wraps are used, along w/ stick-on/screw-on mounts. We use a small diagonal wire cutter to get the ends of the wraps cut off flush.. [Really pisses me off to see the blood dripping, when I jam a sharp wrap end into my arm!]
For multiple wire connections, we use Metripak connectors.
In any case, use ONLY quality crimping tools.! NOT cheap, but necessary.
T-taps are a NO NO! They cut some/many of the strands, and are not worth the time saved to use them.[On top of that, they look like "Fido's ***"!]
If you need to splice into a wire, do it at the connector, or peel some insulation, intertwine the strands, solder and shrink wrap.
Keyed 12vdc can be pulled from the fuse panel, or you can use a relay that closes w/ key on/run, and start.
We use a constant voltage supply to test the harness prior to installing.
When installing we use dielectric grease on the connections.
We buy our materials from WAYTEK.
Take a look at thier site.. www.waytekwire.com
HTH,
Last edited by Old Geezer; 09-10-2009 at 08:04 AM.
09-10-2009, 09:58 AM
#3
Thanks for the post, I've always used wire from the local stores here. Me and a buddy wired up my Nitrous/Stand alone and etc. and I was looking forward to some tips on how to make it look a lot neater.
Looks like I have a full weekend ahead if I don't get to go to the track
Looks like I have a full weekend ahead if I don't get to go to the track
09-10-2009, 10:14 AM
#4
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First and formost take ur time, use wire loom and zipties. Make the wires follow a natural flow of engine harness. I have 12 hours in wiring my 2 stage, both heaters, standalone, microedge, interface and switches. Made 90deg brackets to mount some of the relays behind the headlights.
09-10-2009, 11:53 AM
#6
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Figure out the length of each wire that you need and then make a wiring harness off of the car. Bundle all of the wires together. Zip tie them up, put sheathing, loom, or heat shrink on them, then install it on the car. Making the harness off the car on the floor makes soldering connectors and such much easier too. Obviously, using different colored wiring for each thing makes troubleshooting much easier too. Your best off actually using colored wiring for grounding each component so you won't be trying to figure out which ground goes to what.
09-10-2009, 12:02 PM
#7
Figure out the length of each wire that you need and then make a wiring harness off of the car. Bundle all of the wires together. Zip tie them up, put sheathing, loom, or heat shrink on them, then install it on the car. Making the harness off the car on the floor makes soldering connectors and such much easier too. Obviously, using different colored wiring for each thing makes troubleshooting much easier too. Your best off actually using colored wiring for grounding each component so you won't be trying to figure out which ground goes to what.
Thanks for all the input keep em' comming
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09-10-2009, 01:43 PM
#10
Formerly darynC-10/23/10
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heres a sneak trick i used... try to find where my wires are hiding....looks just like your average ole slow POS truck
its the darker glossy black wire covering
its the darker glossy black wire covering
09-11-2009, 09:20 AM
#11
Additionally.. we DO NOT use elec tape for wrapping bundles. When exposed to elevated temps, the adhesive becomes runny, and will make a sticky mess. We use tape made for wrapping, and/or convoluted tube. Or, as mentioned in the previous post, shrink wrap.
09-11-2009, 09:36 AM
#12
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What I'd really like to see is a place offer colored wiring and then for each color have a corresponding "ground" where the coating is black with the corresponding colored stripe so you could wire things in pairs. I've seen colored wiring with a black stripe, but it can be a pain to see the black stripe. If the sheathing were all black with a colored stripe, it'd be much easier to recognize.
