ChevyWeatherman

iTrader: (2)

This post will be mirrored to all popular sites so people can do a search and hopefully be helped by it! Just kind of a hodgepodge of things I ran into, had trouble with, etc.

Car: 2002 Z28

Taking the stock stuff of was not too bad, but the car only has 7000 miles on it. I ended up taking the heat shields off of the manifolds because I thought it might make it easier to get the plug wires off. I actually thing getting the plug wires off was one of the hardest parts of the install. I was able to use a ratchet and socket with either just the socket (10mm) or a small extension to get all of the manifold bolts out. I used a ratcheting wrench on some of them for a while, but I could have done it without the wrench.

I left my spark plugs in because of the 7000 miles, I figured they were ok. If you are not going to change plugs, you can leave the #1 spark plug wire on, it won't get in the way too much.

I started with the passenger side header first, it went in no problem. I re-used the stock gaskets. I was able to get the gasket lined up and the bolts started by myself on the pass. side. I used Stage 8 locking bolts.

I had read so many nightmares about the driver side header than I was dreading even trying. I took off the oil filter and attempted to slide it up there keeping a close eye on the steering linkage and the block. To my amazement, it slid in like butter. No need to take the linkage loose or grind anything off of the block, it went right in. I needed someone to hold the bottom of the this side in order to get the gasket lined up and the bolts started.

On to the O2 extension situation. Mitch at FLP told me that I only needed one O2 extension, so I got one. I went to hook things up and saw that I thought I needed 2. I was going to use one of the rears for the passenger side and the stock front driver's side with an extension. As it was, the rear O2 wires were not long enough to reach the passenger side O2 bung. I talked with Mitch again and he told me to take the O2 connector mount loose from the car (can't believe I didn't think to do that). That gave me the extra play I needed to use one of the rears.

I tightened the headers up with a torque wrench where ever I could get it in there and guessed on the rest.

I took out most of the AIR stuff and blocked it off. I left some of the hoses in the back and the pump is still in, to be taken out at a later date. I took out the 30 amp fuse for the AIR pump.

Of course, I had to fire it up w/open headers. I went to start it, and it wouldn't keep running. It would fire to 500 RPM and then quit right away. My first thought was plug wire, but I figured it would at least run even with one wire off. I didn't know where else to start so I checked all plug wires and found one that didn't click on all of the way. It then ran perfect. I don't have an SES light for the AIR stuff...yet. I also noticed that the #5 plug wire touches the header tube. I am going to look into that. I have a heat sock waiting to go on.

For the y and i pipe fitment, I mocked it up and saw that I was going to have to cut the I-Pipe at least 2 inches. I cut 2 inches off and tried again, still needed more, so I cut 3/4 more off, and I can't cut straight so it ended up being 2 7/8 inches total that I cut off. Everything went together perfectly after that. My I-Pipe was part of the SLP 2OTL exhaust. The 2OTL muffler sounds wicked with the LTs and offroad pipes! And with my electric cutout in the I-pipe, it will be extremely easy to scare people.

My Metco driveshaft loop will not clear the FLP y-pipe.

I had access to a lift for this. It took me about 7 hours, but on jackstands it would no doubt have taken longer.

I am very pleased with FLP. Not only is their product top notch, their customer service is too. Thanks Mitch!