LT1T/A

iTrader: (6)

Im using the crank pulley installer tool and Im not sure if the new underdrive pulley is seated on the crank far enough for me to take the tool out and install the new crank bolt.

TXARKITEKT

I wouldn't think it is far enough on. Whenever I put a crank pulley back on, I always heat up the housing of the crank pulley (where it slides onto the snout of the crank) evenly all the way around with a kerosene torch for about 2 minutes. This allows the crank pulley to expand in size enough for you to turn the torch off and slide the pulley on--making sure you are wearing thick gloves! I push it on as far as possible. Then I take the old crank bolt and make sure I can get at least 3 full turns on it before I press it on with an impact. I always press it on with an impact a good ways--almost to where the front cover's witness marks are on the crank pulley. Then I back the old crank bolt out and put the new one in and hit it with the impact until I hear it dead-head...or about 300 ft lbs or so.

1979rs/z28

iTrader: (21)

For some reason it dosent look like its far enough to me either. I think I remember the actual part of my pulley going back into the timing cover seal, I may be wrong.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Its not on there all the way. The bigger part of the hub needs to go through the seal with about a 1/4 gap left of the hub showing. Also, you can look evenly from the bottom to see if the pulley looks aligned with the other pullies.

Skidog5150

iTrader: (2)

I'd have to agree that it's not on far enough.

02CamaroSSLE

iTrader: (5)

yeah just use your eye to see when it lines up with the other pullies... when i did one a couple of years ago... we used the impact... just becarful when doin so cause if you crossthread it or break the bolt into the crank... ummm yeah thats very very very bad news! but GL

LT1T/A

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the replies guys. I didnt heat it up because I borrowed a crank pulley installer and assumed it would be easy(ish?). Well its really hard to turn now but maybe Im just a big ***** Ill have to find a pipe to slip over the breaker bar.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

If, when you first put it on it got a little crooked, it can bind up bc its such a tight press fit. You want to get it started as straight as possible and then it will fix itself as you are tightening it. If its not pretty straight to begin with, it could bind up and be close to impossible to turn. Dont over force it, you dont need a breaker bar if you have the pulley installer. I would pull it back off. Lightly sand the crank snout and make sure there are no burrs. Then wipe it clean, then put a little motor oil on it for lube. Then try it again being very straight this time. I bet you will find that it works very easy.

Hardway

+1 on this recomendation. Did the exact same procedure on an '88 IROC I had when running in to the same problem. Pulley install tools work great when used under the ideal installation conditions. Make sure your crank snout is smooth and clean with just a little oil on it. You will be surprised how much of a difference a little oil will make when reinstallling the crank pulley.

LT1T/A

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the replys guys. So i took the crank install tool out and its somewhat bent. Also I cant get the pulley off the snout

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

I used a veneer and measured the depth of the balancer hub while it was on a flat surface. Then I measured how far the snout of the crank was from the oil pump drive that the balancer will seat against. Do a little math and figure out how far back the snout of the crank should sit inside the hub of the balancer. It was really kinda overkill but I was sure my balancer was seated fully.