HELP! on putting on my ASP pulley!
12-16-2003, 12:39 PM
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HELP! on putting on my ASP pulley! Ok so I'm trying to put on my pulley on my car but I'm having lots of trouble taking off the bolt! I was following the instructions on how to do it which are on this website... http://www.ebbsnflows.cz28.com/photo4.html and when i got to trying to take off the bolt it would just spin, and i even put something in there to try to make it stop from spinning but it was to hard. Then i noticed on step 2 on the website that the guy had a M6 and put it into 5th gear to make not spin, but i have an automatic and was wondering if there was a way to make it not spin? I have everything i need to do it but i just can't break loose the bolt! Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.
12-16-2003, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Xsta Z 28
Automatic car? You need to lock the fly wheel from spinning. Easy in a Manual, Auto, takes some ingenuity, or the right tool . . . .
12-16-2003, 03:54 PM
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On a 6 speed car, put the shifter in 4th gear and make sure the parking brake is on tight. On an A4 car, you'll need to drop the starter and either install the flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in. The starter is held in by 2 13mm bolts for 99+ models or 2 15mm bolts for 98 models and is on the bottom rear passenger side of the engine. You can leave the wires attached.
Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once it's broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time.
From here: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once it's broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time.
From here: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
12-16-2003, 04:06 PM
#5
You guys must like to do it the hard way! All you need to do is put a heavy-duty breaker bar on the bolt with the end of the handle against the ground. Then, with the coils unpluged, very briefly turn the key to barely crank the engine. It will usually pop loose on the first try! This is how they do it at the dealer shops.
BTW, make sure the handle is against the ground on the driver side of the pulley!
BTW, make sure the handle is against the ground on the driver side of the pulley!
Last edited by Cal; 12-16-2003 at 04:11 PM.
12-16-2003, 04:23 PM
#7
Once you get the original bolt out, use a lathe or have a machinist center-drill it so the puller has something for the point to go into. Then screw the bolt back in 3 or 4 turns and use a good three-leg puller; Pep Boys has one.
The torquing procedure depends on whether you are using a stock bolt or ARP. Stock bolt is torque-to-yield, so you must follow the procedure; you may want to mark the bolt head with a Sharpie marker so you can keep track of the angle.
The torquing procedure depends on whether you are using a stock bolt or ARP. Stock bolt is torque-to-yield, so you must follow the procedure; you may want to mark the bolt head with a Sharpie marker so you can keep track of the angle.
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12-16-2003, 04:34 PM
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This way requires a friend to help out. On the bellhousing there is a small pop-in cover. Remove this cover and you should see the flex-plate. Have a friend use a large screwdriver or prybar and secure the flex-plate. Now use your breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt.
Now for the easiest pulley install method ever. Boil some water in a large pot. Place your pulley in the water for a few minutes. While the pulley is boiling put some anti-sieze on the crank snout. Using gloves(pulley will be hot) slide the pulley on the crank snout. It should slide all the way on by hand. Now let it cool down and use your new crank bolt to secure it.
Now for the easiest pulley install method ever. Boil some water in a large pot. Place your pulley in the water for a few minutes. While the pulley is boiling put some anti-sieze on the crank snout. Using gloves(pulley will be hot) slide the pulley on the crank snout. It should slide all the way on by hand. Now let it cool down and use your new crank bolt to secure it.
12-16-2003, 04:51 PM
#10
Originally Posted by NO CATZZ
Now for the easiest pulley install method ever. Boil some water in a large pot. Place your pulley in the water for a few minutes. While the pulley is boiling put some anti-sieze on the crank snout. Using gloves(pulley will be hot) slide the pulley on the crank snout. It should slide all the way on by hand. Now let it cool down and use your new crank bolt to secure it.
12-16-2003, 10:40 PM
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GM dealership has bolt about 4-6.00
go to http://www.aspraceing.com,then go to belt section and get belt #'s go to local parts supplier and they can cross to a belt which they srock ( I like the goodyear gater back belts ) think about 20.00 each , I will post some info below hope some of it helps :::
REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
get a big peice of pipe to use as cheater on on ratchet or breaker bar ( some say bind bar and bump starter to loose crank bolt ( I WOULD NEVER DO THIS )
Will need a 3 leg puller that will pull from the inside ( never from outside ) of stock pulley (may rent from local past supplier )
when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. Once it is pressed close to flush ( about 1/8 being flush) then install old bolt and tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<
hope this helps Johnny
ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again
may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down
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go to http://www.aspraceing.com,then go to belt section and get belt #'s go to local parts supplier and they can cross to a belt which they srock ( I like the goodyear gater back belts ) think about 20.00 each , I will post some info below hope some of it helps :::
REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert a BIg screw driver or pry bar into the teeth of fly wheel ( you will need a freind to help) may need to insert one behind the flap behind the starter also >>>( NO need to remove the starter) OR you may order the special tool from GM which will bolt to block which will hold the fly wheel
get a big peice of pipe to use as cheater on on ratchet or breaker bar ( some say bind bar and bump starter to loose crank bolt ( I WOULD NEVER DO THIS )
Will need a 3 leg puller that will pull from the inside ( never from outside ) of stock pulley (may rent from local past supplier )
when ready to re install I get two new crank bolts from dealer and weld a 5/8 x 4 in bolt to head of one ,
( will need to grind down the washer on stock bolt so that it will fit threw the pulley) screw the welded crank bolt in to crank slide a socket( one that will just fit inside the pulley- to use as a guide to start pulley stright ) over the welded 5/8 bolt ,use this to pull the puller back on this way you are not puting much strain on the threads inside the crank Lubricate and mount the ASP pulley onto the snout. Once it is pressed close to flush ( about 1/8 being flush) then install old bolt and tighten it to 240 ft. lbs. or until it is completely seated on the crank snout. Afterwards, REMOVE THE STOCK BOLT and replace it with the NEW CRANK BOLT. You will tighten the NEW bolt to 37 ft. lbs. and then turn it an >>additonal 120 degrees.<<<
hope this helps Johnny
ps:: I install a new seal any time I remove a pulley($10.00 and 10 minutes now is better than haveing a leak and haveing to remve pulley again
may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down
/\/\/\/\
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