Breathing Fire

Ok so I have an SLP underdrive that I thought I was going to install tonight, but I can't get the bolt to break free! I just spent the last 1 1/2 hours reading trying to find some way to get it to break free. I can't get this damn bolt to break free. I searched, but most people seem to have a problem getting it on, but I can't even get that far. Any help would be appreciated.

UPDATE: Ok so I got the pully on and seated using a threaded rod M16 at 2.00 same as the bolt that came out. Anyway so I put the old GM bolt in and torqued it to the specs on my instruction sheet. The bolt went in easy didn't force it. So when I go to back it out for the new bolt it won't move. Finally got it out and it looks like this one in this thread. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cs-inside.html

What the hell happened? I didn't use the bolt to seat it as I have read many times not to. Am I screwed? Any suggestions?

Monte LS....1

iTrader: (3)

Get the torch out and heat the crap outta the bolt head then hit it with an impact for bout 30 secs or more. should come out but if not reheat and try again.

massls1guy

iTrader: (9)

I used an 18" breaker bar with a 3' pipe on it and I had to put all my weight on it. They are on there good.

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

i have a 25" 1/2 rachet and every bit of energy i had so i'd say piece of pipe and a friend i let the engine warm up first so that might help

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

This is the way to do it.

Do not heat the bolt head, making it bigger and softer will not aid removal.

philsblwnz28

iTrader: (10)

Breaker bar FTW

Monte LS....1

iTrader: (3)

Heat the bolt good and the entire bolt expands and then cools and retracts helping break lose the loctite and whatever crud...heating isn't necessary though. I've take my last three out with just an impact. Not sure why everyone has a problem with these.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

You must have a damn fine gun. My IR 231 wouldn't budge it with the air cranked up to max.

Monte LS....1

iTrader: (3)

year old snap on rated at 1200 ft lbs

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I used a breaker Bar, no issues.

Armageddon

iTrader: (41)

People have luck with heat because it breaks down the red loctite... I however feel like sticking a torch in a tight space surrounded by easily ignitable fodder is a bad idea.

Back before I had any air tools I'd stand in the engine bay and jump on the breaker bar.

Breathing Fire

Hey thanks guys. I drove the crap out of the car and got it good and warm. Came off pretty easy after that. Thanks. One more thing the new pully is keyed and the crank isn't does it matter how I put it back on?

PontiacFan

iTrader: (104)

No alignment necessary.

Breathing Fire

Thank you pontiac fan. Off to try again...

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

Does the engine want to turn over, when you are removing the bolt?

f-bodyguy

iTrader: (9)

give me a big enough bar and i can move the world....remember that lol

Breathing Fire

No it was in 5th gear. Thanks guys. I have it off now just need a block of wood and or a longer bolt for the new one. I haven't gotten to it yet i'm just lazy today. Thanks for the help all.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Don't bother with a longer bolt.

GET A THREADED ROD!!! With the same threads, some washeres and 2 Nuts.

Seating the rod to the bottom gives the most strength and stability and will not allow the bolt to be broken. I used McMaster for the rod but any place with the correct pitch and thread count will do the trick. I have seen countless guys strip the threads or break bolts off because they were lazy.

Breathing Fire

Also if it matters it screwed out buy hand about the last 4 full turns.

ssdeuce74

iTrader: (2)

fill the key with sealer so no leakin oil