1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to buy a LS6 intake very soon. What's all needed for the swap? I was going to keep my stock coolant lines and chip out the bottom of the ls6 intake. I've seen a video on here where the guy did that. So I can save money there! Thanks for any info guys!!

MjMaro

iTrader: (11)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...d-install.html

The main thing needed that you won't find on a parts list, PATIENCE

I ground the fins on mine, reused the injector o-rings and the manifold gaskets.

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

Thanks a ton man! I searched for an hour and came up with nothing. lol.

MjMaro

iTrader: (11)

No problem, sometimes you have to have the wording just right to get what you are looking for.

Good luck on the install

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

yea save some money and chizel the intake. thats what i did. you dont need a dremel or anything. i used a wood chisel and hammer no problem in a couple min

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

Either of you two have pics of this? Do you chip out all the fins on the bottom or just where the lines are?

outkast6991

iTrader: (34)

if you want a set of ls6 lines i have a set. make an offer if your interested

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

theres no pics needed. i took off all the fins. u dont need them. once u do it your gonna see how easy,fast it is, and your gonna wonder why anyone makes a big deal about the stupid fins to begin with.

just remember to disconnect the wire harness in the back of the intake and be very carefull of the oil sending unit in the back. once everything was disconnected i used a big prybar to lift the old intake up off the block. once its lifted up wiggle and pull it out. but be as carefull as possible.

its not really all that bad. if i remember correctly the #8 spark plug was more of a pita that swaping intakes

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

I'm surprised you needed a pry bar to get the intake free from the heads...mine just kinda popped free when I tried to lift it.

I also just took the fins off the bottom of the intake...I think they do serve a purpose of strengthening the floor of the manifold...but it's been about a year and 40K+ miles in my car without being an issue.

You will need an EGR blockoff plate for your exhaust manifold, OR an LS6 intake modified to accept EGR (I'd recommend the plate).

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

I already bought the plates for the air and egr! Wish I would have bought headers without the egr fitting now. Oh well. To late.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

You don't need plates to block off the holes in the headers. Thread a bolt in the hole, works just fine and it's free. Old pressure plate bolts work great.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, I just got headers, haven't installed them yet...so I had to do the same as you when I swapped my manifold...if you are using the plates (I've never heard of threading bolts into the holes, my holes weren't tapped, wouldn't want to risk cracking a manifold) it's worth having new gaskets for them too.

MjMaro

iTrader: (11)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-manifold.html

silversrtman

iTrader: (20)

not to hijack the thread, but what is everyone talking about with the oil sending unit? Is it an electrical connector? Is it a hose or line? Im doing this install soon and i just want to make sure i dont screw it up. Thanks.

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

So all I need to do is chip off the fins, get new gaskets and bolt the intake on? Plus put the egr block off plates on? Sounds easy to me. I'm good at working on cars. Just sounds like it will take some time. Thanks for all the help and tips guys. And a big thanks to MjMaro. The links are a great help.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Yeah pretty much...and swap the injectors from one manifold to the other (put oil or grease on the O-Rings before you try to stuff them into the new manifold).

Be prepared for it to take a few hours, keep everything as clean as you can, have a vacuum ready to clean the heads thoroughly when you get the old intake off (there's always crud you can't see till it comes off).

Another tip, the intake manifold bolts pull up a little bit out of the manifold quite easily to a point...and there's NOT enough room to get them completely out of the manifold under the cowl in an f-body...so as you loosen them up, have a piece of tape in your hand. Unthread the bolt from the head, tug it up as high as it will go, and wrap tape around it so that it won't fall back into the manifold/head.

Do the same thing to the bolts on the new manifold (tape them up before you put it in) and then remove the tape after you're confident the new manifold is in the right place.

MjMaro

iTrader: (11)

I went through the same questions when I was doing my swap, so I'm glad they have proven beneficial for someone else. Definitely consider painting your intake before you put it on, I wish I did. If you have deleted your AIR system, you will need to plug the T-fitting on the back of the manifold (the line that normally goes to the AIR check solenoid). I plugged my vacuum line with a little screw until I have the intake off again to cap it at the back intake.

MjMaro

iTrader: (11)

The OPSU is a round black plastic sensor behind the intake manifold which is screwed into the block.


The vacuum hose which goes to the back of the intake manifold is routed behind the OPSU, so if you are not extremely careful of getting the vacuum hose over the OPSU, it will snap off with very little pressure. I was conscious of the OPSU and still managed to break it (costs $40 IIRC). Not a huge deal but very preferable to avoid the headache of dealing with it at all.

1gt2nv

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking of getting it painted. Might as well. I have a bunch of vacume caps. Those should work for the rear port? I would think.

MjMaro

iTrader: (11)

Should work just fine