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98-02 F-body head/intake swap

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Old 03-08-2010, 05:50 PM
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Default 98-02 F-body head/intake swap

For the do-it-yourself crowd...I have a few questions about the process of swapping heads and intake while the engine is still in the vehicle.

1. How much time can a swap take with all parts on hand?
2. Are there any potential headaches/problems that can arise doing this swap?
3. Should ARP head bolts be used?

Any insight and or advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks fellas!
Old 03-08-2010, 06:57 PM
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1. as little as 3-5, as much as 6-8
2. valve springs are the biggest pita...
3. if on a super tight budget buy stock gm headbolts, but imo spend the extra money and get arp head bolts and rod bolts too...

look over this too http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=3

Originally Posted by sixt9er
For the do-it-yourself crowd...I have a few questions about the process of swapping heads and intake while the engine is still in the vehicle.

1. How much time can a swap take with all parts on hand?
2. Are there any potential headaches/problems that can arise doing this swap?
3. Should ARP head bolts be used?

Any insight and or advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks fellas!
Old 03-08-2010, 07:04 PM
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^^^right on...thanks for the website recommendation. I shall check it out...
My customer is purchasing a set of built Trick Flow heads and he was asking about the specifics and possible obstacles with the engine in the vehicle and I told him to join LS1tech...he's not a computer guy though...lol
Old 03-09-2010, 10:59 AM
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The heads will have the springs on them so you shouldn't have to worry about swapping them in the car. It's pretty straight forward. Just take your time and follow that site and you should be in good shape. If the car will be NA or don't plan on pulling the heads off again, go with the GM bolts. If there might be a power adder, I would go ahead and put ARP hardware in place of the factory bolts.

Jon
Old 03-09-2010, 11:22 AM
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@ Jon- do the ARP head bolts get torqued to a specific ft. lbs. or are they still tty?




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