Finally got the 6.0 done!!!!
#1
Finally got the 6.0 done!!!!
Well, as the title says, I finally got my car up and running, and back on the road. I'd like to thank Jason from Texas Speed for the cam recommendation and Steve Williams (Frost) for the mail order tune, to get her back on the road, and Mike Kaser (WS6Store) for the amazing service getting me whatever part I need at an awesome price, and faster than I can imagine. Here's some details on the car:
- Freshly rebuilt LQ4 6.0, stock internals with ARP rod bolts
- TSP 231/236 .644/.613 111LSA cam spec'd for rectangle port heads
- Stock L92 heads with PRC EHT .675 lift springs
- Stock LS3 intake/fuel rails/injectors
- Nick Williams 92mm TB
- Spec Stage 3 clutch
- RPMSpeed 255lph fuel pump
- Racetronix fuel pump hotwire kit
- SLP lid
- eBay stainless LT's
- Custom 3" H-piped TD's w/ single chambers
- Frost mail order tune
There's probably other stuff that I'm forgetting right now. But, I'm suffering from lack of sleep from working on the car so much lately, so I can't remember every detail. haha. Anyway, here's an idle clip of it after I got it home last night. I'm very happy with the sound of the cam, and it pulls like a freight train once I get it up into the powerband. Haven't really taken it past 5k though, since the motor is fresh off a rebuild.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djvfWH2OWL0
- Freshly rebuilt LQ4 6.0, stock internals with ARP rod bolts
- TSP 231/236 .644/.613 111LSA cam spec'd for rectangle port heads
- Stock L92 heads with PRC EHT .675 lift springs
- Stock LS3 intake/fuel rails/injectors
- Nick Williams 92mm TB
- Spec Stage 3 clutch
- RPMSpeed 255lph fuel pump
- Racetronix fuel pump hotwire kit
- SLP lid
- eBay stainless LT's
- Custom 3" H-piped TD's w/ single chambers
- Frost mail order tune
There's probably other stuff that I'm forgetting right now. But, I'm suffering from lack of sleep from working on the car so much lately, so I can't remember every detail. haha. Anyway, here's an idle clip of it after I got it home last night. I'm very happy with the sound of the cam, and it pulls like a freight train once I get it up into the powerband. Haven't really taken it past 5k though, since the motor is fresh off a rebuild.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=djvfWH2OWL0
#4
Sounds awesome! How much you think you spent on all the engine parts? Looking to add some power adders to my stock LQ4.
You like those spec clutches? My spec 3 doesn't like stop and go traffic, but it hooks real well!
You like those spec clutches? My spec 3 doesn't like stop and go traffic, but it hooks real well!
#8
I've probably got about $4-5k in everything. I'm scared to add it all up and know for sure. lol. And I'm liking the clutch so far. Doesn't really seem any different than stock, from what I can remember the stock one feeling like. A lot better than my old Spec 3 in my LT1. That clutch was a pain. I just need to get used to taking off with the cam and a little more aggressive clutch. I've killed it a few times trying to ease around in the driveway. lol
#9
I like the sound of it at idle. But, driving around and all, is a little loud and crazy. lol. I think I might actually end up putting full size actual mufflers on it sometime soon. Dyno time will come after I've got the motor completely broken in, and I have the money to do it. So, in a few weeks, hopefully I'll get it somewhere for the dynotune. Still trying to decide where for sure.
#10
I also need to get a crank relearn done at some point, from my understanding. I tried taking it to the local dealer and they knew what I was talking about but were unsure about doing it since the car has a cam in it, and a performance tune already on it. Apparently, they must think that it'll screw with my tune or something. And knowing how dealer service departments are, they probably won't listen to me at all, if I try to tell them that they can do it just fine. So, I guess I'll have to make a little longer trip to go get it done.
#12
FormerVendor
iTrader: (45)
You don't need a crank re-learn if you don't get the p1336 code (will set the SES).
That's a pretty rank sounding cam on that 111LSA. It sounds like it may need a shade more airflow through the throttle blade fromt he up down swing at the beginning of startup. If you have a scan tool that can show real time data, you may want to try to adjust the throttle body's minimum blade angle set screw until you see about 45-65 IAC counts at hot idle. If that's not possible, maybe just try opening the blade set screw about a 1/4 turn and reset the TPS afterward. On the other hand, it may get more solid as it goes, but if not, that should make quite a difference.
Thanks for the nice words, glad to see it's up and running.
That's a pretty rank sounding cam on that 111LSA. It sounds like it may need a shade more airflow through the throttle blade fromt he up down swing at the beginning of startup. If you have a scan tool that can show real time data, you may want to try to adjust the throttle body's minimum blade angle set screw until you see about 45-65 IAC counts at hot idle. If that's not possible, maybe just try opening the blade set screw about a 1/4 turn and reset the TPS afterward. On the other hand, it may get more solid as it goes, but if not, that should make quite a difference.
Thanks for the nice words, glad to see it's up and running.
#13
I'm actually throwing a few codes right now. I thought I had you guys delete the AIR system, but I'm getting a code for it. No biggie on that. I forgot what all of them were. There were about 9. None of them were really a big deal. One was a bad O2, but it's always been bad. Another was MAP sensor, but that's because of how the MAP sensor is mounted for right now. I'd have to look up the other ones again. I think one said something about a vehicle acceleration sensor, or something like that. I've also heard, that just because it's not throwing a code for the crank relearn doesn't mean it doesn't need it, and a lot of times, it won't throw the code unless it's a brand new PCM. So, I figured I'd have it done, just for safety and good measure. And I'll have to mess with the throttle screw. We messed with it a little on the first startup, because we couldn't get it to idle at all, when we were trying to heat cycle the motor. But, after we let it cool back down, and turned it on again, it idled right at 1k, with that little swing. I can hook up a scanner to it and play with it a little bit to see if I can get it to idle a little better. Also, did you move the rev limiter up at all when you tuned the PCM? I guess I never really said anything about it when I had you tune it, and I'm not really worried about it, since I don't plan on redlining it until it's dynotuned. But, I was just wondering, just incase. Also, I'm getting a lot of surging and bucking when driving around at lower RPM's. It's probably just because of the cam being a pretty decent size. But, I also wasn't sure if it was just because it still hasn't learned the airflow, since the letter you sent with the PCM said it's kind of slow learing and may take about 100 miles to learn.