jason2687

iTrader: (2)

I just found out I'm throwing a code for the front O2 after my header install. I'm pretty sure it's not a pinched/burnt wire or anything. So with this being said, here is my question:

*If I plan replace the O2, should I replace BOTH even though only one is throwing a code?

*If I have a predator tuner, is it safe to just delete the code everytime it comes on (until I have money to buy some O2's)?

*Should I replace one, or both 02's with the corvette sensors???

jason2687

iTrader: (2)

Also, exactly how detrimental can it be to drive my car with a faulty Front O2?

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Long tube headers will often cause O2 codes if you reuse your old sensors because the O2's are furthur downstream and have trouble heating up and switching fast enough. The best solution is to replace both with the corvette O2's, which have longer harnesses as well.

The Bosch number for the Corvette O2s is 13111. Should be available at almost any auto parts store.

As for deleting the code, don't waste your time. It won't help anything, the issue will still present. Once you get new O2's, then reset the code.

The worst thing that will happen from driving with bad O2s is decreased driveability and worse fuel economy.

Kris Mangrum

Only replace the one that is bad.

jason2687

iTrader: (2)

^^^you think? Should I only replace one, even though I plan on putting in the corvette (13111) sensor?

I know the wire is longer, but I'm not sure if they read/adjust the a/f any differently?

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Get 2 of the 13111's and call it a day. They have the proper length harness, switch (read) properly just like the stock ones, and supposedly have better heater elements than the stock ones as well. No sense in changing just one, its bound to fail soon. O2's atart to switch slower as they age, and putting them in LT headers just makes the issue worse.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Do a search - esp. in the PCM forum and you'll find lots of guys' experiences. Some have luck with the Bosch 13111's, some don't. I tried Denso and it started throwing codes out after a couple of months. I got so fed up with this issue that I ran an open loop tune for about a year.
Right now, I'm running some used Corvette rears I bought from here and they're doing ok. Throwing occasional codes, but I turned off the warning light for them because it's too annoying. I only see them when I scan.

jason2687

iTrader: (2)

^^^ That's kind of how it goes for me. Thats why I'm not sure if I should replace them. How is your gas milage when the code is thrown? Thats pretty much the only little difference I have noticed.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Its not the sensors that cause the codes to come on so much as it is the location of the O2's so far downstream. The PCM has an extremely tight threshhold on when the O2's should start switching and how fast they should switch, and with LT headers, it takes them longer to warm up. The PCM interprets this as a lazy sensor, and throws a code. The actuality is that the sensor is probably working fine, the PCM is just way too sensitive because the stock O2's are so close to the engine.

So its not that the sensors aren't working, its that the PCM expects more than what they are capable of with their location being so far downstream.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Is there an easy way to check to make sure the o2 sensor is actually working with hp tuners or something of that nature?

Also is there a way to adjust the threshhold according to your tune?

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Yes. On HP Tuners, or just about any other good Scan tool, you can actually watch the O2's switching on a graph.

Not that I know of.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Good explanation, but taken for granted in my post. The question is what to do about it. You advocated Bosch 13111's. My point is, that per your explanation above, that guys shouldn't taken for granted that those will help - in many cases they'll throw codes like anything else. As you say, the problem is the LT's, not the 02 sensors.

Wesmanw02

iTrader: (4)

Correct. However, brand new sensors will switch faster than old ones, and its been said that the 13111's have better heater elements than the stock F-body sensors. That can make a difference, because the issue is that the sensors don't get hot quickly enough, and if the heating elements in the 13111's are better, that can help prevent a code being set.

I've been running 13111's in my car, and I've had decent luck with them. Typically it will throw a code about once a year (usually when its cold out).

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Here's the classic thread on the subject: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...ighlight=Bosch

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

Thats a good read.