Idle issue after LT, ORY, LS6 intake install.. Need help.
04-25-2010, 06:23 PM
#1
Idle issue after LT, ORY, LS6 intake install.. Need help. I just got finished with my LT install, LS6 intake, new plugs and wires, o2 extensions, ory. I deleted the AIR, and EGR.
My car is idling high, once I start it up, it will be at 2000 rpms, then will slowly drop to 1600 then kinda bump back up after a min to 2000, then slowly come back down. I sprayed carb cleaner around the edges of the intake, then also around the intake to tb area, it didn't rev up. I believe all of my vac lines are hooked up correctly.
2nd problem, 1 of my plugs is just barley hitting the header, on the thick rubber part that is right by the metal on the end that goes to the plug. Will this be ok? Also another plug is about a 1/4 of an inch to the header and that is the wire itself. Will that be ok? What can I do here?
Any suggestions?
Thank you!!
My car is idling high, once I start it up, it will be at 2000 rpms, then will slowly drop to 1600 then kinda bump back up after a min to 2000, then slowly come back down. I sprayed carb cleaner around the edges of the intake, then also around the intake to tb area, it didn't rev up. I believe all of my vac lines are hooked up correctly.
2nd problem, 1 of my plugs is just barley hitting the header, on the thick rubber part that is right by the metal on the end that goes to the plug. Will this be ok? Also another plug is about a 1/4 of an inch to the header and that is the wire itself. Will that be ok? What can I do here?
Any suggestions?
Thank you!!
04-25-2010, 07:02 PM
#2
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Did you reconnect the MAP on the back of the intake? Brake booster line? AIR diverter and HVAC vacuum lines on the back of the intake?
The rubber insulator on the plug boots is fine as long as it's not actually touching the header primary. If you SEE it or hear it arking, that's a different story. You should have the car re-tuned after the intake and LT install, but I didn't have an issue after either one. Just used more fuel.
Take it for a ride and see if it changes when you get back. If anything, disconnect the battery for a couple seconds to reset everything. (But I guess you did that during the LT install)
The rubber insulator on the plug boots is fine as long as it's not actually touching the header primary. If you SEE it or hear it arking, that's a different story. You should have the car re-tuned after the intake and LT install, but I didn't have an issue after either one. Just used more fuel.
Take it for a ride and see if it changes when you get back. If anything, disconnect the battery for a couple seconds to reset everything. (But I guess you did that during the LT install)
04-25-2010, 07:07 PM
#3
I am pretty sure I connected everything on the back of the intake. I had 2 other people helping me with it so I think one of us would of noticed it. I know for sure the brake booster line is hooked up. What is the AIR and HVAC lines? How about the MAP? lol thanks...
I have to reconnect the AC, and figure something out for an exhaust, put new rear end fluid in and then I can take it for a spin. I am hoping to get it driveable by this week.
Thanks!
Anyone else?
I have to reconnect the AC, and figure something out for an exhaust, put new rear end fluid in and then I can take it for a spin. I am hoping to get it driveable by this week.
Thanks!
Anyone else?
04-25-2010, 07:23 PM
#4
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^ There are two small plastic vacuum lines that T off of the back of the intake. One goes to the HVAC controls in the cab and the other goes to the AIR system diverter valve on the driver's side near the fuel lines (If applicable).
Is this the 99 in your sig? It SHOULD have the A.I.R. system. It's for emissions.
Is this the 99 in your sig? It SHOULD have the A.I.R. system. It's for emissions.
Last edited by bayer-z28; 04-25-2010 at 07:33 PM.
04-25-2010, 07:31 PM
#5
^ There are two small plastic vacuum lines that T off of the back of the intake. One goes to the HVAC controls in the cab and the other goes to the AIR system diverter valve on the driver's side near the fuel lines (If applicable).
Is this the 99 in your sig? It SHOULD have the A.I.R. system. It's for emissions.
Is this the 99 in your sig? It SHOULD have the A.I.R. system. It's for emissions.
The HVAC is like the heater thing to open and close my vents right? And I deleted the air and egr.
04-25-2010, 07:34 PM
#6
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^ Yeah. If the vacuum line for the HVAC is not connected you won't have any climate control in the cab. The vacuum controls a couple things, such as the blend-door and the vent selector.
It MAY idle a little high. I know mine ran a little rough at first. it's been a long time, so I don't really remember. Let run for a while so it can get used to the new setup. I know there is no real "relearn" for these LS1 computers, but these cars have a personality like that.
It MAY idle a little high. I know mine ran a little rough at first. it's been a long time, so I don't really remember. Let run for a while so it can get used to the new setup. I know there is no real "relearn" for these LS1 computers, but these cars have a personality like that.
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04-28-2010, 02:49 PM
#8
mine did the same thing after i installed a LS6 intake and a ported TB. after weeks of not being able to figure out what was causing it, i stumbled upon a thread that talked about people drilling the hole on the TB blade to make it a little bigger, so a car with a cam would idle better. sure enough, i pulled my lid off and the whole was the size of a pencil, swapped in the stock blade and the car has run perfect ever since. might be worth checking out if its not your stock TB
05-02-2010, 05:14 PM
#10
bump
hvac works fine, i have been driving it here and there. Not everywhere tho... still having issues. If you let the car sit for 30 seconds it tames down to around 1k. Give it a rev its right back up to 2-2500 rpms. then calms down.
What gives?!?!
hvac works fine, i have been driving it here and there. Not everywhere tho... still having issues. If you let the car sit for 30 seconds it tames down to around 1k. Give it a rev its right back up to 2-2500 rpms. then calms down.
What gives?!?!
05-02-2010, 09:46 PM
#11
is your throttle body closing all the way? please don't dismiss this one cause i did the same thing with the same issue, but i changed throttle bodys. try to force it closed or if it seams like it close any more, just pop out the throttle cable and start the car. if this is the issue then just adjust the throttle cable, no big deal
05-22-2010, 08:36 PM
#13
Cleaned the IAC motor, didn't make a difference, torqued the intake in sequence and to the right in lb spec. Next is get a tune. Maybe take the intake off and look at it. Guess I might pull it off tomorrow.
I replaced the intake gaskets when I pulled the intake off, do I need to replace them again when I take it off to inspect it? Since they are crush gaskets?
Thank you!
I replaced the intake gaskets when I pulled the intake off, do I need to replace them again when I take it off to inspect it? Since they are crush gaskets?
Thank you!
05-31-2010, 03:54 AM
#14
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no need to replace the gaskets .. just keep in mind to fab work the intake .. to fit it over the coolant lines..
ls6-intake-fab-work-opinions-pics
ls6-intake-fab-work-opinions-pics
06-25-2010, 02:46 AM
#18
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Get it to a tuner to have them run a data-log on it and see if anything is off. Possible leaking o2 connection or bad gasket or something is off.
And don't drill the TB plate. That's a cheap man's tune alternative to changing the idle. a tune will correct all of that.
How did you swap your injectors? I'm wondering if you have a kinked or cracked injector O-ring. Re-check the easy gaskets such as the TB gasket and injector gaskets. Cheap and easy first.
And don't drill the TB plate. That's a cheap man's tune alternative to changing the idle. a tune will correct all of that.
How did you swap your injectors? I'm wondering if you have a kinked or cracked injector O-ring. Re-check the easy gaskets such as the TB gasket and injector gaskets. Cheap and easy first.
06-25-2010, 09:41 AM
#19
I assume your check engine light is on... get it scanned. See what codes outside of the normal rear o2/air/egr codes come up. I remember when I did my LS6 intake I did not plug in the MAP sensor on the back of the intake and when I was driving my car would idle at like 1500 when I came to a stop then drop to under 1000 after a few secs.
06-25-2010, 12:56 PM
#20
I pulled 8 codes when i first swapped everything. iir they were egr, air, 4 o2 codes which might be my extentions, and im not sure the other 2. i posted the codes in the maintence section. I did replace 1 o ring on the injector but it was injector to fuel line one. will a mail order tune be okay?