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Headers/Headers Install

Old 05-10-2010, 08:28 PM
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Default Headers/Headers Install

Hey guys I just purchased a 99 SS and Im in the process of having the MOD BUG Im sure you all know how hard that bug bites. Anyway I just bought an LS6 intake from a guy off the forum and now Im wanting to get into some headers. Im very mechanically inclined however I have no experience with the LS1 header install. Can people tell me how hard it is, any tricks of the trade? It looks to me like every bolt on the factory manifolds is accessable from the top side which really surpised me. I have a 94 Z LT1 car and yeah getting to those bolts from the top side would be rotten but those have a different bend to them. Anyway Im trying to buy a used set of SLP headers which Ive heard is the best for these cars other than Kooks.

Can someone tell me the power gain I can expect with the LS6 intake, and the headers and down the road another tune? My car has been to the Wichita dyno so Id just have him do it again.

Any help and tips/hints would be appreciated. Oh and if someone says do a search, part of the reason I did this is to gain 50 posts so that I can start using the classified section, Id rather buy from guys on here than ebay. So please dont chime in and say USE SEARCH!

Thanks
Old 05-10-2010, 09:19 PM
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The intake upgrade is good for 10-15hp and I would guess the exhaust to be around maybe 20?

My 01 already had that intake and stock it was running 14.2-14.4 right at 100 with the auto trans.


I just bought a full exhaust and just learned ill have to get a tune to delete the cats, fun stuff




Right now mines still pretty close to stock, got 9.5" zr1's and all of the induction peices with a ported throttle body but the cold air induction hasnt been put on the car.


I would guess if the car had full bolt ons those mods would be good for 30-40 hp but I may be wrong. Will run and sound better.
Old 05-11-2010, 11:15 AM
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Installing LTs on an LS1 is really easy as long as you get the car up high enough in the air to slip them in from the bottom. My LT1 was a lot bigger pain in the ***!
A 10mm ratcheting wrench with a swivel end that I picked up at lowes made easy work of getting stock manifolds/coils off.
I had a 98 so the coils are bolted on individually, not on a brackets. I just took one off the pass side to make it easier.
I went back on with 7/16's locking stage 8 bolts and didnt have a ratching wrench for that but got it done with combo of ratchet, wrench, stubby wrench pretty easy.
Intake manifold is pretty easy too as long as you take it out carefully making sure you have everything off and unplugged. There is a video of it on here you can search for thats pretty good from 'theblueknigh'
Old 05-11-2010, 11:26 AM
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It is a fairly easy install. Just take your time. Pull the coil packs off, plugs n wires out. As was said a 10 mm ratcheting wrench is like your best friend, i dont see how to get last bolts without it. Take your time and i'd soak those bolts with PBB beforehand.

On a side note if you are looking for some headers and maybe a Y-pipe, shoot me a PM. I have some for sale
Old 05-11-2010, 12:32 PM
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PM Sent-00T/AWS6
Old 05-12-2010, 11:35 AM
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It is fairly easy but I have heard that the older SLP headers have some clearance issues. Of course I dont own them so this is only from what I have read. I do love my TSP headers though and the price is great. Its an easy install just time consuming. Also try and have a friend with you. Its nice to have the extra hands. As far as numbers go.. its hard to say. If you go without a tune for a while you probably wont see numbers as high as you want. With a tune though it will wake your car up.
Old 05-12-2010, 11:48 AM
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I just installed Kooks LT headers, besides no having all right perfect tools for the job like swivels and ratchet wrenches it was easy. Jacked the car up 12" took another jack to the back of the tranny and lifted it just an 1" or 2" and driver side header slipped right in without having to cut or shave anything! Dyno numbers are in sig!
Old 05-12-2010, 10:45 PM
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As others said get the car up as high as you can. Its straight forward though but will depend on what brand of header you end up with. I used the stock header bolts on mine and a fresh set of stock gaskets. After a week of driving a re-torqued the header bolts and checked them about a month after that and I've not had a problem in years. Don't know why people take the coil packs off though.. I've done a couple LT headers on LS cars have never seen a reason to touch them. Get some poly motor mounts as long as you are at it. It will keep the engine from moving around and keep the y pipe or exhaust from hitting the undercarriage as most LT header exhausts get close to the underside of the car.
Old 05-13-2010, 07:41 AM
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my tip for this which bit me almost is to take one of the old header bolts flatten 2 sides and bore out each header bolt hole. All my bolts came out but going back in they fought me so it helped big time by boreing them all out. I also had to notch my K member to fit the drivers side and the passengers side cleared it is just very close. DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE BOLTS. I didnt know the torque specs at first and ended up breaking a head off a bolt but I got luck and got it out. It took me in all about 14 hours I wanna say with deleteing EGR and AIR. I am pretty good with working on my cars I just took it all kinda slow because I was working alone for most of it. PICK UP A SWIVEL EXTENSION if you dont have one I needed it. Also a 10 mm ratcheting wrench was also a help on the coil brackets and the headers.


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