BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Last week I noticed my car was idling a little high. The next sign i noticed was it shifting into overdrive once at a certain speed(which is normal) but after hitting a sustained highway speed it would shift back into 3rd. Lastly at the track my 60fts were normal, and car seemed to be running good, but it felt like it would shift to early, adn also was shifting into overdrive, or the converter was locking in the 1/8 mile. It is a Rossler 4L60E, and has been tuned by Dan @FLP. Never had this problem until last week. If you need more info to further help me please let me know. Thanks in advance.

P.S. I have a money race vs. a **** talking mustang owner this friday night, and need to it fixed before then.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Did you check that vacuum line from the intake to trans?

You runnin' Mike at Charleston or something? You definitely need to **** him up....

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

I checked all the vacuum lines i could without jacking the car up. Tomorrow Im going to tear into it more, but just wondered if anyone else could give me a little direction. Im supposed to race mike"5-O" friday, another mustang who is supercharger, and a jig 600 bike. So i need my **** running good, and not shifting into overdrive during the 1/8th.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

intake bolts?

try a can of throttle body cleaner. spray it around any lines/flanges til you notice the idle speed change.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Gotcha, I will try that first thing tonight. So a leak somewhere in the intake you think could cause it to idle high? I still dont gt why its not staying in 3rd during a race.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

im not sure about the trans, to be honest. it doesnt make sense because there is no vacuum at WOT, and a vacuum leak wouldnt affect it. do you have a code reader/ scanner? also, i'd make a post in the trans section.

anything leak after the throttle body is a vacuum leak, and causes the car to idle higher. its like the throttle body being cracked slightly more, but the engine usually runs lean until the pcm corrects for it.

what happens when you spray the TB cleaner is the liquid gets sucked in, and adds fuel to the motor, and the motor bogs. you'll find it. just slowly move around the intake. spray the **** outta everything.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Actually, the rpm's will usually increase with that test. Carb cleaner, brake clean, Tb cleaner, will all do the same thing.

I doubt its actually shifting into OD because you have it in "drive" anyway, not OD. Maybe locking 3rd, which I also doubt would happen in the 1/8 mile, and if so wouldn't hurt it.

TS6

iTrader: (41)

Unless its a FI setup, there is vacuum present at WOT, just not much. And yes, a vacuum leak will affect things at WOT.

Kyle, go by the house and get that scanmaster, it'll help.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

I got the scanmaster the other day when i was waiting on your wife to get home<---not a joke I actually was waiting on here to give me the keys to his car. Anywho, if i hook it up what setting would tell me what? Give me a call if ya get this brother.

98blackbirdta

iTrader: (7)

I think I have a vacumme leak too, started idleing high, and searching for idle after it warmed up. Sorry for the thread hi-jack, but ill try th tb cleaner.
Hope you dragged that mufstang up and down

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Thanks dude! And after the first pass he didnt want to race. He was bitching about his carb being messed up....RICER EXCUSE. Anywho, i found a leak out of my fitting for the MAP sensor, pluged it. Didnt help car kept doing it. It is also throwing itself in "limp" mod after driving it for a extended period. Im gonna have it hooked up to a GM scan machine soon, and see if its throwing codes. I cant seem to find anything wrong. If thats a dead end i guess i will try to get a re-tune, and see if that helps. It could use it anyways.

It just sucks because the car isnt running horrible, just weird. It did a 6.89 1/8th tonight in its shitty condition.....I just dont get it.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

a retune probably isnt gonna help. your plugs and wires are good right? fuel pressure?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Have you checked the PCV piping? The Y fitting hidden behind the manifold under the cowl seems to burn away. Ya can't see it, just follow it with your fingers.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

I just switched from TR6 plugs to BR7EF plugs. But it was doing it before, and after the plugs were changed, all plugs that i pulled looked good, wires are msd and less than a year old. fuel pressure is steady 45, and stays threw the RPM range.

I have a Vic Jr intake, so that isnt my problem. BUT i do know exactly what you are talking about. I rerouted all my lines to catch can, and I havent checked all the connections lately. I will look into that.

Im gonna see if the scanmaster is pulling any codes tommarow, if so look up and see what the computer reads is wrong.

ShortChevy

iTrader: (21)

LS1 fuel pressure is suppose to maintain 58psi. Although low fuel pressure usually wouldn't make it idle high. Idle low and shitty.

ls1 1990 VN

Check on the passenger side of your TB, with mine it's blocked off with a piece of hose and a bolt in the end, it's a vacumn pipe, when ever mine backfires on start up through the manifold it tends to spit the bolt out causing the idle to increase to around 1200rpm, other than that car runs normal

Duffster

iTrader: (103)

So after all that, dude bitched and that was that? That sucks...

Engine pics?

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Yup, i will get you guys some pics tonight, I am going to buy a vacuum tester, adn hook it up to the car today, and see if i cant find the problem that way.

kmracer

iTrader: (1)

one quick test that'll confirm it being a vacuum leak is, if you have vacuum brakes still, with the car running press the pedal rapidly. if rpm fluctuates, a vacuum leak is your problem.

BlackWS666

iTrader: (31)

Good to know, but I have Aerospace drag brakes all around.