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Poly Motor Mounts + Pacesetter Headers + TSP Y Install For Dummies *LOTSA PICS*
#142
Staging Lane
A few guys removed the pedestal with the motor mount. Wouldn't that be easier then removing the AC and the Alternator? I'm working on installing my new headers and poly mounts this week.
#143
On The Tree
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Madison, AL
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Hey man thanks for this doing this write up. I used it doing a Kooks LT headers (cats and emissions delete) mod and added billet solid motor mounts. I still have to button a few things up, but it has been incredibly helpful.
This may have already been mention somewhere in the last 7 pages between the first and this one, but I found a great way to get that pesky 2nd motor mount long bolt in.
Loosen the K member on the side you're working on. Loosen the 3 bolts holding it in. Give yourself maybe 1" to play with. Pry the k member down from the frame while you pry against the motor mount with your pry bar between the mount to the engine and the mount to the k member. This worked so well it pissed me off that I didn't do it first. (Well pissed me off after I finished my happy dance after I got that bolt in place.
I don't know how long I fought with this. I tried loosening the mount on the k member with the 2nd side and snapped a rusted bolt in k member (worked great on the 1st side). Ended up having to completely remove the k member to fix that. :///
This may have already been mention somewhere in the last 7 pages between the first and this one, but I found a great way to get that pesky 2nd motor mount long bolt in.
Loosen the K member on the side you're working on. Loosen the 3 bolts holding it in. Give yourself maybe 1" to play with. Pry the k member down from the frame while you pry against the motor mount with your pry bar between the mount to the engine and the mount to the k member. This worked so well it pissed me off that I didn't do it first. (Well pissed me off after I finished my happy dance after I got that bolt in place.
I don't know how long I fought with this. I tried loosening the mount on the k member with the 2nd side and snapped a rusted bolt in k member (worked great on the 1st side). Ended up having to completely remove the k member to fix that. :///
#146
11 hours by myself for the poly MMs. Trans and exhaust out, jackstands (no lift), pedestal and clam total removal method. Had no trouble using Energy Suspension as far as clam install goes.
One thing I've seen a few posts of is people leaving them overnight half installed and in the morning it was easier. This is what happened to me. After reading those posts I came out before bed and droped the engine down on them to "wear in" or loosen up the poly. Probably helped.
I did the enitre assembly out method. Did not pull alt or AC. Removed and installed with the 18mm through bolt installed. After the driver was in tight, I had the pass installed engine side and had about a 1 inch varience between pedestal and K holes. Yikes. Ironically how i got them in was no jack. Went to back of engine and saw it yawing heavy to driver. I just grabbed the engine and twisted it with muscle force and it slid over almost perfectly over the K holes. Used a small screwdriver in one of the holes and some torque with one hand while I threaded the three other pedestal holes.
Feel like I could fight a bear now after that ****. Major props to those that do this with exhaust and trans in without a lift.
One thing I've seen a few posts of is people leaving them overnight half installed and in the morning it was easier. This is what happened to me. After reading those posts I came out before bed and droped the engine down on them to "wear in" or loosen up the poly. Probably helped.
I did the enitre assembly out method. Did not pull alt or AC. Removed and installed with the 18mm through bolt installed. After the driver was in tight, I had the pass installed engine side and had about a 1 inch varience between pedestal and K holes. Yikes. Ironically how i got them in was no jack. Went to back of engine and saw it yawing heavy to driver. I just grabbed the engine and twisted it with muscle force and it slid over almost perfectly over the K holes. Used a small screwdriver in one of the holes and some torque with one hand while I threaded the three other pedestal holes.
Feel like I could fight a bear now after that ****. Major props to those that do this with exhaust and trans in without a lift.
#147
How tight are you guys tightening the exhaust manifold bolts?
I did this install last august and now I am noticing an exhaust leak on the driver side manifold. I went and tightened all the bolts but I am hoping they are not over-tight.
I did this install last august and now I am noticing an exhaust leak on the driver side manifold. I went and tightened all the bolts but I am hoping they are not over-tight.
#150
Are there any arguments against solid mounts - I don't mind paying bit more. Mods are listed below (exhaust being LT headers, ORY and magnaflow).
Or what about solid tubular steel like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tubular-LSx-...9TwW~O&vxp=mtr.
As I'm ordering all now - looking for best and/or easiest.
Thanks.
Or what about solid tubular steel like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tubular-LSx-...9TwW~O&vxp=mtr.
As I'm ordering all now - looking for best and/or easiest.
Thanks.
Last edited by T2TA; 08-31-2016 at 01:06 PM.
#151
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Anything solid is going to affect ride quality in so far as transferred noise and vibration from the engine to the frame. Its the price you pay for stiffness. Its entirely subjective however as to just how bad it is to you and is dependent on the condition of your drive train just how bad that vibration and noise actually is.
#152
Anything solid is going to affect ride quality in so far as transferred noise and vibration from the engine to the frame. Its the price you pay for stiffness. Its entirely subjective however as to just how bad it is to you and is dependent on the condition of your drive train just how bad that vibration and noise actually is.
#154
Awesome thank you for doing this!!! I just ordered kooks lt and their true dual exhaust, should be in about 3 weeks from now. I wasn't sure how to change the motor mounts out but this explains everything with pictures! Awesome 4 thumbs!
#155
Staging Lane
iTrader: (10)
I read this forum before installing my headers like... maybe 6 months ago. I read through it a couple of times before installing, and then followed along while doing the install. This write up is fantastic!
I thought one part was funny though. When you say you need a big *** pry bar and a 800# gorilla to get the 2nd motor mount bolt in. I installed the drivers side bolts first, then installed the passenger side bolt by myself using a 24" Harbor Freight pry bar in one hand and the motor mount bolt in the other.
I thought one part was funny though. When you say you need a big *** pry bar and a 800# gorilla to get the 2nd motor mount bolt in. I installed the drivers side bolts first, then installed the passenger side bolt by myself using a 24" Harbor Freight pry bar in one hand and the motor mount bolt in the other.
#156
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
I totally agree SumDumKid. I've done quit a few automotive thing in my life, but I had not worked on a late model Fbody and this thread was a HUGE help to me.
A trick for getting the 2nd motor mount bolt in was to loosen the four bolts on the 2nd motor mount which allow the mount to move a little bit independently from the block. I know this is late for you and it sounds like yours went pretty well, but I thought I would post this for others.
A trick for getting the 2nd motor mount bolt in was to loosen the four bolts on the 2nd motor mount which allow the mount to move a little bit independently from the block. I know this is late for you and it sounds like yours went pretty well, but I thought I would post this for others.
#157
This has been great for me so far. I am just about to pull the MMs. I was wondering how you guys torqued the header bolts. I am really worried about accidentally stripping them. I just can't see how you could get the torque wrench in their to get the last bolts on the passenger side.
#158
Staging Lane
iTrader: (10)
This has been great for me so far. I am just about to pull the MMs. I was wondering how you guys torqued the header bolts. I am really worried about accidentally stripping them. I just can't see how you could get the torque wrench in their to get the last bolts on the passenger side.
Torque as many as you can. You might be able to get the last 2 bolts from under the car, but if you can't, just give em a good snug. 18ft lbs. Good luck and have fun!
#159
12 Second Club
iTrader: (5)
Gutentite m8. Just make sure, if you can, to use a 6 point socket and start every bolt by hand before tightening. I had a bigger problem with stripping the head of the bolt or it trying to cross thread in.
Torque as many as you can. You might be able to get the last 2 bolts from under the car, but if you can't, just give em a good snug. 18ft lbs. Good luck and have fun!
Torque as many as you can. You might be able to get the last 2 bolts from under the car, but if you can't, just give em a good snug. 18ft lbs. Good luck and have fun!
Torque the bolts you can and use what you can to get the others. You can get a "feel" of the torque with a regular ratchet on the bolts that you torqued and apply that feel on the bolts that you can't get to with the torque wrench. Clear as mud, eh?
#160
Well the BBK long tubes went on with no problem at all (not exactly the same for the motor mounts). Those things were designed and built extremely well. I'd post a video of the sound, but my phones microphone is **** and its winter here in MN.
Thanks for all the help. I'm not sure how I'd have done it without this guide!
Thanks for all the help. I'm not sure how I'd have done it without this guide!